I agree. I think some fish just die. The frayed fins bother me, but everything is clear.
Gills were clear:
Stomach was clear:
Skin scrape was clear:
This is a single tiny scale from the skin scrape.
Discoloration on Anthias side
- Thread starter Radman73
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I agree. I think some fish just die. The frayed fins bother me, but everything is clear.
Gills were clear:
Stomach was clear:
Skin scrape was clear:
This is a single tiny scale from the skin scrape.
I never look at organs. Wouldn’t know what I’d be looking at.
Only look for parasites. Their poop is dark brown and healthy! The remaining fish look amazing. Just watching them w/o medications present to see if anything will pop up. I’m about 75% sure I’m clear, but 75% will get you 76 days!!!
Big G
captain dunsel
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Humblefish has found recently that some of his unexplained deaths of new incoming fish have had evidence of bacterial infections on the liver of the fish. Yet the exterior of the fish was clear without symptoms.I never look at organs. Wouldn’t know what I’d be looking at.
Their poop is dark brown and healthy! The remaining fish look amazing. Just watching them w/o medications present to see if anything will pop up. I’m about 75% sure I’m clear, but 75% will get you 76 days!!!
Now that wouldn't surprise me a bit. I guess I need to do some research. I know that Anthais died from something other than a parasitic infection. Even when he finally went down his respiratory rate was normal. With Uronema they're breathing 90 mph. So even though I saw a few internal in the beginning, I'm confident that I got them all with the Metroplex. For this one time I'm pretty confident that metroplex worked. I did use two scoops in the food and water column. Now...if I can treat 10 Chromis and keep 9 alive....I'll really be a believer.
Humblefish has found recently that some of his unexplained deaths of new incoming fish have had evidence of bacterial infections on the liver of the fish. Yet the exterior of the fish was clear without symptoms.
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Radman73
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So, a female and the male are now breathing heavy and hiding. Noticed it this morning. The water is a little yellowish but 2 alert badges show ammonia to be 0. Copper is at 1.59ppm after a 5gal water change I performed in response to the behavior, I dosed the water change to 1.6, so I was very close. I was gone yesterday so my wife fed them from a bottle I prepared for her. I can't think of anything to cause this behavior. It has a HOB, powerhead, and air pump running and has been for weeks. Considering setting up a 10gal QT, dose to the same copper level, and move them over.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
Javamahn
Active Member
Following this thread. Prepping a 20 gallon QT for a trio of Psuedanthias bicolor and trio of Chromis viridis. I have on hand Furan-2, Metroplex, Kanaplex, Focus, Cupramine. I have frozen Hikari Mysis w/spirulina, Cyclopeeze, LRS.
I want to give these guys the best chance I can.
I want to give these guys the best chance I can.
Big G
captain dunsel
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Kanaplex + Furan2 or Spectrogram to treat possible internal bacterial infection.
Javamahn
Active Member
Glad to hear he is better today. Are they still in copper and Metro? How and what have they been eating lately?
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Radman73
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Just copper, no metro. And only day 7 of copper. They seem to enjoy frozen mysis and cyclops, though I try something new occasionally like frozen reef plankton(which they seemed to have ignored). They generally eat very well though with the hiding yesterday I'm not sure the male ate at all.
Since the water changes seemed to have helped, or at least not hurt, I may do a 5 gal change daily or every other day just to get them through the copper treatment. Too close to the end! I generally do 14-days in copper and then move them into a long term observation tank. May shrink it down to 10 days this time though, I think that's the minimum if you're feeling frisky.
Javamahn
Active Member
Thanks Radman73. Please continue to update.
I will get my trio eating 1st then start the cupramine as you have done. I am undecided on Metroplex. Hoping today all 3 are less stressed after the transport.
I just read cupramine directions which say recommended is 0.6ppm. Why did you take it to 1.6ppm?
I will get my trio eating 1st then start the cupramine as you have done. I am undecided on Metroplex. Hoping today all 3 are less stressed after the transport.
I just read cupramine directions which say recommended is 0.6ppm. Why did you take it to 1.6ppm?
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Radman73
Valuable Member
Was hoping to reply quickly lol! Chelated vs ionic copper. I use copper power, which is chelated. I'm guessing Cupramine is ionic. Do you have the Hanna copper checker? I find it invaluable for checking the copper level. In fact, I'd likely only do TTM if I didn't have it.
Also, for feeding, they ate live baby brine shrimp and frozen brine as well.
Javamahn
Active Member
Thanks again yes it is ionic I only have the seachem copper test an I emailed them to ask for recommended dosing I am sure they will stick by the label. Tomorrow all LFS will get a delivery of live brine and I will grab some. Hoping they can do frozen till then. Thank you again and keep up the good work. Much appreciated
Javamahn
Active Member
Seachem Replied...
Thank you for your email. For quarantine, I would recommend either ParaGuard or MetroPlex instead of Cupramine, especially if you are potentially treating for uronema. More hobbyists have reported success using ParaGuard to eradicate uronema, and I would recommend a prophylactic treatment period of 21-28 days to rule out the potential of infection.
I hope this helps!
Thank you,
Seachem Support 10286
So I ordered both on amazon.
Daughter said they made it through the night and she fed them this morning.
Thank you for your email. For quarantine, I would recommend either ParaGuard or MetroPlex instead of Cupramine, especially if you are potentially treating for uronema. More hobbyists have reported success using ParaGuard to eradicate uronema, and I would recommend a prophylactic treatment period of 21-28 days to rule out the potential of infection.
I hope this helps!
Thank you,
Seachem Support 10286
So I ordered both on amazon.
Daughter said they made it through the night and she fed them this morning.
I just love how Seachem doesn’t list the exact ingredients of ParaGuard. It’s another “miracle medication” that they claim works so well...yet they can’t list it on the label or in the SDS. Well, I couldn’t find it anyway. Maybe somebody else can take a look around and post up.
“IT CONTAINS A BLEND OF ALDEHYDES, MALACHITE GREEN, and FISH PROTECTIVE POLYMERS.”
Overview
ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available (for parasites on fish). Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot). It is particularly useful in hospital and receiving tanks for new fish and whenever new fish are introduced to a community tank.
I never trust secret fish medications.
“IT CONTAINS A BLEND OF ALDEHYDES, MALACHITE GREEN, and FISH PROTECTIVE POLYMERS.”
Overview
ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available (for parasites on fish). Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot). It is particularly useful in hospital and receiving tanks for new fish and whenever new fish are introduced to a community tank.
I never trust secret fish medications.
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Radman73
Valuable Member
I agree, but can't necessarily blame them for not wanting to give away their formula either. Curious if anyone has done tests to determine the effectiveness of ParaGuard at eliminating, well, anything.
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Radman73
Valuable Member
Moved the anthias over to the 60 cube which I use as a transition tank from QT to the DT. The hope is to pick up a few more females, get them through QT and into the 60 with this group and then add them all to the DT at the same time. Unfortunately we have spring break coming up and I'm not positive that I can get the females through QT in 4 weeks so it'll likely wait until after we get back.
In any case, happy to have them in a larger tank for sure.
In any case, happy to have them in a larger tank for sure.
Javamahn
Active Member
What is the total harem size you are hoping to bring into the DT? I will likely only be able to keep 3 based on the 8 fish in the 150G sps tank already.
I ended up putting in the paraguard as I figure it is a mild treatment. The 3 fish do not appear to have any ailments. 2 are eating all frozens very well. The 3rd is recieving much of a aggression and is becoming more timid. At feeding it will only grab food that is close to where it stays and does not swim to the middle of the 20 gallon tank to feed heavily. I am not sure if I need to partition them with eggcrate or leave all 3 together in the 20 until 4 weeks is done. BTW please tell me if I am hijacking your thread as I am not meaning to.
