Eating Up RO Membranes

[Reef.]

I got the below answer several years ago from an engineer at Spectrapure when quoting out and installing a unit at my work.

The largest micron size we sell and that we recommend is a 1-micron sediment
filter and here is why:

Most people are not aware that these types of filters are "nominally" rated
not "absolute" rated and the percentage of 1 or 5 micron particulates that
will be captured will be different with different manufactures. (Typically,
nominally rated filters will capture only about 5 to 10 % of the
particulates they are rated to capture).

Nominally rated 5 micron filter will capture 10% of the 5 micron particulate
and about 80% of particulates that are > 50 micron. The 1 micron filters we
use typically capture a much higher percentage of 1 to 5 micron
particulates.

wow I was guessing it would have to remove a majority of the stated micron size to get that rating, didn't think It would be so low...just tried to find what the actual figure is but unsurprisingly it's not easy to find!

 

[Reef.]

Just to be

just to be clear, the removal of these particulates in no way affects the result obtained by the TDS meter?

it saves the life of your membrane, your membrane has less to do...you could even go 1 micron and 0.5 if you can get ahold of one easy enough.

 

[flyfisher2]

Understood. But I could put in fifteen of these filters and still get a high TDS going into the membrane?
As I’ve been getting with the 2 5 micron and 2 1 microns I’m using presently

 

[zalick]

Thats awesome and considerably more than I'm producing. You have your unit in a climate controlled environment?

I don’t. It’s in my garage. It gets as low as 40s maybe high 30s in winter. And probably around 90or so in summer. The water input stays fairly cool year round though and that’s all that really matters.
Most RO units are rated for 77 deg water. My water never approaches that. It’s probably 60 most of the time so my output isn’t close to 180gpd. The colder the water the less the output.

 

[zalick]

Just got caught up.

I ONLY buy absolute rated filters. And I personally only buy Spectrapure. Technically “near absolute” for most of the sediment filters. The zeta zorbs are true absolute.

the sediment filter is there in order to protect the carbon. The carbon is there to protect the RO membrane.

if I were you I would keep it simple. Call Spectrapure and ask them what to do. Buy a RO membrane and house from them and attach to your unit. Then use your existing housing to install whatever filters they recommend. They are the best IMO.

 

[Woodyman]

Just to be

just to be clear, the removal of these particulates in no way affects the result obtained by the TDS meter?

Nope not the TDS. But the less sediment especially the smaller size sediment will enhance your RO unit. Think more efficiently and longer life typically.

 

[Woodyman]

Just got caught up.

I ONLY buy absolute rated filters. And I personally only buy Spectrapure. Technically “near absolute” for most of the sediment filters. The zeta zorbs are true absolute.

the sediment filter is there in order to protect the carbon. The carbon is there to protect the RO membrane.

if I were you I would keep it simple. Call Spectrapure and ask them what to do. Buy a RO membrane and house from them and attach to your unit. Then use your existing housing to install whatever filters they recommend. They are the best IMO.

@flyfisher2 I agree completely about spectrapure, I have a lot of experience with them designing and installing units for me. It's where I've learned all the technical aspects of RO/DI systems.

I've got the spectrapures in my system and I have no plans to change. I've used the BRS from time to time, but I always go back to spectrapure.

 

[laverda]

Well guess what came in the mail today?

Is this your tap water or water after the RO membrane? If after, that would explain your issue, as the chlorine is probably much higher before the membrane.

 

[flyfisher2]

Is this your tap water or water after the RO membrane? If after, that would explain your issue, as the chlorine is probably much higher before the membrane.

this is the City water report

 

[flyfisher2]

@flyfisher2 I agree completely about spectrapure, I have a lot of experience with them designing and installing units for me. It's where I've learned all the technical aspects of RO/DI systems.

I've got the spectrapures in my system and I have no plans to change. I've used the BRS from time to time, but I always go back to spectrapure.

I already ordered the Puratek 100 deluxe as recommended so Spectra pure is not an option at this point. But I'll keep it in mind going forward when I need replacement filters. My first RO was a spectra pure. In fact the three DI canisters are what's left over from it.

 

[DrZoidburg]

TDS is dissolved solids like salt not particles. Looks like you have it hooked up right. Do you open your flush restrictor when you put in new carbon blocks? Here is mine shutoff valve, to mesh filter, to pump, to 5 micron, to 1 micron, to carbon block, to dual solenoids, to triple membranes, to resins on the left in picture, to electronic shut off pressure switch, to tee valve, to a another canister off picture that buffers to ph coming out. Blue tube on the right is just a free tube attached to a tee valve so I can flush out new carbon blocks. The shut off is wired to pump and solenoids. Did so by modifying a higher flow 120 volt pump. 120 volt outlet to the solenoids and pump in parallel I think to the pressure switch. I forget how I wired it. I would have to cut it open or remember to be sure. Did all this from a ancient brs 6 stage so I could get a lot more water. Now it is like a 10 stage really, and I get about 280 gallons in 24 hrs.

 

[flyfisher2]

Excellent. Thanks for sharing. As it stands this is the unit I ordered and I would like to add another 4 canisters to it.

 

[KStatefan]

I also use the ZetaZorb sediment filter I have a whole house filter that takes out all the big particles. I foll0w that with a 1 micron carbon the 0.5 micron carbon. I installed a three way valve prior to my membrane so I can flush the carbon blocks when replace them. The black line is coming out of the filters and the red one is going to the drain. I think a lot of people skip that flush step and reduce the life of the membrane greatly.

 

[Woodyman]

I already ordered the Puratek 100 deluxe as recommended so Spectra pure is not an option at this point. But I'll keep it in mind going forward when I need replacement filters. My first RO was a spectra pure. In fact the three DI canisters are what's left over from it.

The brand of unit you purchase really doesn't make a big difference. The real thing that will make a unit stand out more from the others is the quality of filters you use. So even if you buy an all cheapo unit from Amazon your initial filters won't be that great but if you replace them with the spectrapures you will be making much higher quality water then before even with the cheapo housings.

 

[flyfisher2]

The canisters are the top 4 in this image.
The other three are spectrapure canisters but they drip. I’m not seeing gaskets at the covers. Not sure if they were ever there or just went missing over the years.
In any case a total of 8. I’m trying to determine best way to do this. I believe Woodyman made a recommendation. I need to look back in the thread

 

[flyfisher2]

The brand of unit you purchase really doesn't make a big difference. The real thing that will make a unit stand out more from the others is the quality of filters you use. So even if you buy an all cheapo unit from Amazon your initial filters won't be that great but if you replace them with the spectrapures you will be making much higher quality water then before even with the cheapo housings.

Understood. I reread last night and got it. So the recommendation to go with Spectrapure filters is the way to go.

 

[Woodyman]

I also use the ZetaZorb sediment filter I have a whole house filter that takes out all the big particles. I foll0w that with a 1 micron carbon the 0.5 micron carbon. I installed a three way valve prior to my membrane so I can flush the carbon blocks when replace them. The black line is coming out of the filters and the red one is going to the drain. I think a lot of people skip that flush step and reduce the life of the membrane greatly.

The canisters are the top 4 in this image.
The other three are spectrapure canisters but they drip. I’m not seeing gaskets at the covers. Not sure if they were ever there or just went missing over the years.
In any case a total of 8. I’m trying to determine best way to do this. I believe Woodyman made a recommendation. I need to look back in the thread

If your missing the O-rings you can buy replacements.

If you don't mind waiting until tomorrow I'll mock you something up at work in a nice color coded PDF.

But basically I'd run either 1 sediment, 2 carbons, RO, then 3 DI

Or 2 sediments, 2 carbons, RO, and then 3 DI

And if you wanted you could piggyback the ROs in either setup.

 

[Woodyman]

Understood. I reread last night and got it. So the recommendation to go with Spectrapure filters is the way to go.

Spectrapure gets my vote, they are more expensive compared to the BRS versions. I have no scientific proof one is better than the other and I've used the BRS ones from time to time. If I'm ordering from BRS and I know I'm going to need one and I've already reached free shipping I'll throw in what I need just to avoid the extra order and shipping costs. What I would recommend for sure from spectrapure and not substitute is the RO membranes. The DI lasts longer to from spectrapure in my experience.

 

[flyfisher2]

That’s awesome.
THANKS

 

[flyfisher2]

If your missing the O-rings you can buy replacements.

If you don't mind waiting until tomorrow I'll mock you something up at work in a nice color coded PDF.

But basically I'd run either 1 sediment, 2 carbons, RO, then 3 DI

Or 2 sediments, 2 carbons, RO, and then 3 DI

And if you wanted you could piggyback the ROs in either setup.

Once the unit gets here I’ll post my progress and pick-up ideas and recommendations along the way. As it stands I’m going to install a wood strip under the cabinets and over the slop sink to support the weight then attach the units to the wood and not the sheetrock