It honestly shouldn't make a difference but I'd polish down to your 1 micron prior to carbon just as an added precautionAgreed. Wasn't sure if I should go sediment to carbon but I follow your way.
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It honestly shouldn't make a difference but I'd polish down to your 1 micron prior to carbon just as an added precautionAgreed. Wasn't sure if I should go sediment to carbon but I follow your way.
Not sure but would be unfair to say as the unit had been taken down and put in storage for a couple yearsHow long was the membrane prior to the last 3 installed for? 1 year, 2 year, 3 year, etc?
Gotcha, I'm assuming you weren't going through them every 3 months before you put it in storage?Not sure but would be unfair to say as the unit had been taken down and put in storage for a couple years
Noooo.... Just can't honestly give you a time frame. They did last considerably longer but then again usage was probably less? I'm guessing hereGotcha, I'm assuming you weren't going through them every 3 months before you put it in storage?
Gotcha did you re-plumb anything when removing it from storage. I didn't realize you had the unit in storage. However if nothing was re-plumbed from when you originally put it away to when you took it out, it shouldn't be a plumbing issue.I can say that the setup has been like this for the last year and that I've replaced all the filters several times in that period
Gotcha, I'm assuming you have double checked your restrictor install?I added the three canisters with additional DI. And replaced the restrictor. I tried the 100 and went back to 75.
You did plumb your RO and not Brine water waste to your DI canisters right..!?I added the three canisters with additional DI. And replaced the restrictor. I tried the 100 and went back to 75.


Yes I watched it, it was a good walkthrough and everything looks setup properly, and it appears your flow restrictor is the quick connect type not capillary so you can't really hook those up wrong unless you set them backwards.Did you see the video?
I think I got it right
God knows I looked at multiple schematics on how to do it
While by no means a requirement, I like to color code all my tubing it makes spoting any incorrectly set lines easier.Did you see the video?
I think I got it right
God knows I looked at multiple schematics on how to do it
One more thing from your video, personally I would move the booster pump from the hose connection to after your sediment/carbon, this way you get it boosted up to ~80psi for the RO membrane. Instead of boosting it for sediment/carbon and losing some of that pressure to the filters.Did you see the video?
I think I got it right
God knows I looked at multiple schematics on how to do it
Didn’t think of that. The videos show it installed at the beginningOne more thing from your video, personally I would love the booster pump from the hose connection to after your sediment/carbon, this way you get it boosted up to ~80psi for the RO membrane. Instead of boosting it for sediment/carbon and losing some of that pressure to the filters.
It can be done either, but lower pressure on the sediment and carbon won't lower your production or efficiency quite like it does on an RO membrane.Didn’t think of that. The videos show it installed at the beginning
I ordered all new lines and I’m setWhile by no means a requirement, I like to color code all my tubing it makes spoting any incorrectly set lines easier.
I use black for my feed line, yellow for my filtered (sediment/carbon) water, red for my brine waste water, and blue for my RO/DI. I wish I had a fifth for the DI instead of blue being used for both RO and RO/DI
It's a small thing but it really helps when quickly glancing at the system to tell what's what throughout the processI ordered all new lines and I’m set
Had a roll of black at the time and that’s what I used
I made a video of mine For you to look over but for some reason I can’t upload from my iPhoneI think I got it right
God knows I looked at multiple schematics on how to do it

