Eating Up RO Membranes

Don't really need a ton of sediment filters. I would use the extra canisters for carbon and do a rotation style replacement if making a custom one. Hope the new one you get works out.
 
Thanks again. I hope to see the new one during the week. I'll be out of RO water by next weekend plus I'll be needing to make up water changes. I'm sure the filters will arrive by then. In the mean time I'm going to continue taking my existing unit down and disinfect everything.
 
Thanks again. I hope to see the new one during the week. I'll be out of RO water by next weekend plus I'll be needing to make up water changes. I'm sure the filters will arrive by then. In the mean time I'm going to continue taking my existing unit down and disinfect everything.
I'll get you a schematic together tomorrow, and a parts list for your replacement filters, do with it as you wish, you won't hurt my feelings by not using everything I recommend. There are so many combinations you can setup and many different brands of filters.

One thing I would say though for sure is get a reliable and accurate chlorine test kit, and use that to judge when to replace your carbon, not an arbitrary time frame. Then you will know for sure you aren't hitting your RO membranes with chlorine.
 
Marine depot has them as part of their closeout. I have not used them yet but purchased some when I bought filters.

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The Spectrapure O ring is inside the canister
Are they still made that way?
I would need to replace those to make those three canisters work inside
image.jpg
 
Yes, still made that way.
A 10 inch cannister is standard & you should be able to get them from any supplier of RO units.
Try flipping them over first & use a thin film of silicone grease on them.
 
I personally use the little test strips for chlorine. Any hint of color and it gets changed. The big blue carbon is the way to go IMO. If you have the space. Much longer contact time so it lasts MUCH longer. I was burning through regular carbons. Now I’m 10k+ through the big blue and still going.

the other thing you need to keep in mind is water pressure. Need a minimum of 40psi at the RO membrane. The lower the pressure the less effective the membrane operates. I have a booster and keep my pressure at the membrane right at 80psi.

the more canisters and filters you put BEFORE the membrane the lower your pressure is going to be at the membrane.

i put a pressure gauge on each side of my sediment filter. When I see a 10% drop in pressure, I change the sediment.

you really only need a single .5 micron sediment then one ore two carbon then your RO then a couple DI.

I have .5 sediment -> big blue -> 2x 90gpd RO -> high capacity DI -> silica buster DI.

I have low TDS source water but high sediment. And also my water has the dreaded chloramine

You’ll see I have two empty canisters. These were previously my sediment and carbon. But empty now because of big blue.

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Yes, still made that way.
A 10 inch cannister is standard & you should be able to get them from any supplier of RO units.
Try flipping them over first & use a thin film of silicone grease on them.
The one on the left has a double gasket on the lip
The spectrapure has the flat gasket that’s inside and compressed as you attach it to lid
Clearly different
If Spectrapure still makes them that way then no prob
 

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I personally use the little test strips for chlorine. Any hint of color and it gets changed. The big blue carbon is the way to go IMO. If you have the space. Much longer contact time so it lasts MUCH longer. I was burning through regular carbons. Now I’m 10k+ through the big blue and still going.

the other thing you need to keep in mind is water pressure. Need a minimum of 40psi at the RO membrane. The lower the pressure the less effective the membrane operates. I have a booster and keep my pressure at the membrane right at 80psi.

the more canisters and filters you put BEFORE the membrane the lower your pressure is going to be at the membrane.

i put a pressure gauge on each side of my sediment filter. When I see a 10% drop in pressure, I change the sediment.

you really only need a single .5 micron sediment then one ore two carbon then your RO then a couple DI.

I have .5 sediment -> big blue -> 2x 90gpd RO -> high capacity DI -> silica buster DI.

I have low TDS source water but high sediment. And also my water has the dreaded chloramine

You’ll see I have two empty canisters. These were previously my sediment and carbon. But empty now because of big blue.

BEA66E7F-5709-4BF1-9566-9B91970786FA.jpeg
A29C124E-CDD6-454C-91B6-30E9238BFDE7.jpeg
B0F1F868-2046-4E2A-B72E-53A8177DEE7B.jpeg
 

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  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
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The one on the left has a double gasket on the lip
The spectrapure has the flat gasket that’s inside and compressed as you attach it to lid
Clearly different
If Spectrapure still makes them that way then no prob
All mine are the Spectrapure on the right
 
The one on the left has a double gasket on the lip
The spectrapure has the flat gasket that’s inside and compressed as you attach it to lid
Clearly different
If Spectrapure still makes them that way then no prob
Some molykote O-rings grease is what I use on mine periodically and I've never experienced a leak. I clean and re-grease once or twice a year
 

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