Emperor Angel with velvet

[dnyceli]

That Fritz brand live bacteria that they keep refrigerated turbo cycled my tank. You could also look Into that also. You were mentioning that you were gonna use a sponge from your display tank to seed the tank. I would not use that since the sponge has been in the same tank with the disease already.

 

[melypr1985]

Hi Melypr, I see that you are the go to member when it comes to tank disease issues. Just a question, have you ever used Dr. Tim's one and only? I do read a lot of people recommend it and also know that he used to work for instant ocean before getting fired after inventing bio spira.
To me, I have used all types of beneficial bacteria on a bottle products (Cycle, Dr Time and 2 other products that I can't remember the name) when I was desperately trying to get nitrates down when I first set up a hospital tank on a fly. All I ended up doing was a major water change (80%) to get the toxics out of the tank literally, fishes were trying to jump out of the QT tank.
I was so disappointed at Dr. Tim's product since it was so highly appraise online. ALL my perimeters stabilized within hours after I used Bio Spira by Instant Ocean and no I am not here to promote the items. It is so amazing that I did not have to make a water change for a month after introducing it to my QT tanks
Just thought I let it out there, sorry if this sounded intrusive.

I have used several different types of bottled bacteria including Dr. Tims. I found them to all be about the same. I tend to dump the whole bottle into a bowl of tank water with whatever sponge or media I'm using at the time and let it soak for a few hours before putting the media into the filter. I also dump the whole bowl of water in the tank as well. I still have to do water changes until the cycle is complete, but it's not nearly as long as it would have been and it's less stress on the fish.

 

[melypr1985]

your QT tank should have the same water perimeters as of your DT (ideally 0.025). Just make sure you slowly raise the temperature to 82 degrees as this speeds up marine velvet and ich life cycle. Also, while at it treat them for fluke or any other parasites by using Prazipro.
Good luck

I wouldn't bother raising the temp. There's no real need for it. Just the copper and a fresh water dip. a formalin dip would be helpful as well if you want to do more.

 

[melypr1985]

Okay now what sg should I be at in the qt? Drip him or just add?

Match temp and SG and just transfer over. Then add the copper

 

[melypr1985]

So my tank got ich too my fish look a lot like yours. My Royal look like he's got the most I'm feeding the dr g stuff and using a uv what more could I do. It's been about a two weeks

You need to move them to a QT and treat with copper or TTM.

 

[iamurri33]

Now after doing this and keeping them in the 36gal qt tank I can keep them in there for 8 weeks till my dt is free? Just keep up with water changes daily for 8 weeks?

 

[iamurri33]

Sorry for dumb questions I just don't wanna loose the fish

 

[melypr1985]

Now after doing this and keeping them in the 36gal qt tank I can keep them in there for 8 weeks till my dt is free? Just keep up with water changes daily for 8 weeks?

Yes, assuming there are no aggression issues or water quality issues that will be fine.

 

[melypr1985]

Sorry for dumb questions I just don't wanna loose the fish

There are no dumb questions. Asking questions is how you learn! I love questions!

 

[iamurri33]

Now the 36gal tank I have I was going to make a reef tank. After I hospitalized my fish in there can I do a big water change and start on my reef or will I need to drain it add sand and cycle it after I hospital the fish?

 

[melypr1985]

Now the 36gal tank I have I was going to make a reef tank. After I hospitalized my fish in there can I do a big water change and start on my reef or will I need to drain it add sand and cycle it after I hospital the fish?

That tank will need to be cleaned thoroughly after using copper in it. Rinse well, use bleach or vinegar to clean, rinse well again. Let it dry completely. Then you can fill it and put water in it. I would make sure to test for copper before adding sand and rocks just in case. If that tests at zero then keep going. Dont take any chances with cleaning it. If your unsure, clean it again.

 

[Brian Kim]

I wouldn't bother raising the temp. There's no real need for it. Just the copper and a fresh water dip. a formalin dip would be helpful as well if you want to do more.

It's already been proven that temp of 80 to 82 will speed up the cycle.

Now the 36gal tank I have I was going to make a reef tank. After I hospitalized my fish in there can I do a big water change and start on my reef or will I need to drain it add sand and cycle it after I hospital the fish?

You will not be able to use if for reef once you use copper sorry

 

[melypr1985]

It's already been proven that temp of 80 to 82 will speed up the cycle.

I know it has, but it's not necessary to do so. It's just adding one more step to something that can be complicated for a first timer. Not to mention its just one more thing that fish has to adjust to.

 

[mikesilverado8888]

Feeding caviar, garlic, ginger, etc will only help your fish build a better immune system but will not rid ich from your tank. Unfortynately, UV will also not remove ich from your system.
Only proven way of getting rid of ich is to let your tank go fallow for over 72 days. You will have to raise the temperature to 82 to speed up the cycle as well

Ok but I can't get the fish out I don't have a QT.

 

[Brian Kim]

Here's a picture of my QT tank. I would recommend using a 20g long with a lid to minimize water evaporation. You will need a simple sponge filter, HOB filter (look at the one I am using, it comes with a built in UV-do not turn it on if using copper) pvc pipes, heater, thermometer, circulation pump and I would recommend getting a seachem ammonia monitor if you decide to use Cupramine. Also make sure you get a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit as API will not read Cupramine correctly.

 

[melypr1985]

Ok but I can't get the fish out I don't have a QT.

You'll have to get one. Walmart has totes for $6. You can use that along with a heater, HOB filter, ammonia badge and some pvc elbows. Maybe use a small powerhead for more circulation.

 

[4FordFamily]

It's already been proven that temp of 80 to 82 will speed up the cycle.

For freshwater ich yes, and perhaps marine ich and velvet as well --- but why would you want to speed up the life cycle? In many cases at this stage you are at less than therapeutic range of the parasite eradication with the medicine in question and speeding up the life cycle will just lead to faster infestation? Not to mention, the change in temperature may well stress the fish and weaken it's immune response which further puts the fish at risk.

Leave the temperature alone. Keep it in the ideal range. 78 degrees IME.

 

[Brian Kim]

For freshwater ich yes, and perhaps marine ich and velvet as well --- but why would you want to speed up the life cycle? In many cases at this stage you are at less than therapeutic range of the parasite eradication with the medicine in question and speeding up the life cycle will just lead to faster infestation? Not to mention, the change in temperature may well stress the fish and weaken it's immune response which further puts the fish at risk.

Leave the temperature alone. Keep it in the ideal range. 78 degrees IME.

for fresh water ich, it would be a much higher temperature increase for any therapeutic affect (90-92 degrees). I was recommending him to raise the temperature once all his fishes are in the QT tank and for the DT once its on fallow stage. Sorry if it sounded confusing

 

[iamurri33]

So I will need copper, copper testkit, ammonia badge, heater, filter is that all? And what level do I keep the copper at

 

[Brian Kim]

So I will need copper, copper testkit, ammonia badge, heater, filter is that all? And what level do I keep the copper at

0.5 is your final target but get there slowly