Fish have ich! No QT

SaltySam09

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I was feeding my fish today when I noticed White spots all over there fins and body! I'm pretty sure its ich, but I'm not sure what to do, I don't have a QT and Im afraid to dose anything into my DT it has corals and anemones. What should I do?
 
I also have this, does anyone know if it's any good?
20220120_193219.jpg
Dont bother with this. I like it and have used it but its nothing more than peroxide salts and will not treat your clown. In the pic, your clown has Brooklynella - Common with clowns. You may see your fish may scrape up against objects, rapid respiration develops, and fish often gasp for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Very quickly the fish will become lethargic, refuse to eat, and its colors will fade. The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin (quick cure is a good form of formalin) at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank. Ruby Rally pro also works well but takes a little longer
 
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It's really the most economical and accurate method of testing for copper at therapeutic levels. A good deal of accuracy is required for dosing copper, and you must maintain that level for a number of weeks, and you cannot do this with accuracy with test strips.

I'd put out a general call for help in the local community to see if anyone has a spare unit (with reagents).
 
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I was feeding my fish today when I noticed White spots all over there fins and body! I'm pretty sure its ich, but I'm not sure what to do, I don't have a QT and Im afraid to dose anything into my DT it has corals and anemones. What should I do?
UV
 
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Ooh, API? That's living on the edge.

Seriously, though. If you're dosing copper power at 2.5 ppm, how are you going to be able to tell with a colour chart?
 
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Should I use Copper or quick cure?
I'm not even sure what you have. If it's Brooklynella, as @vetteguy53081 suggests, then definitely not copper. You need, as he kindly wrote, a formalin-based medication for that.

But don't use Quick Cure or anything that uses malachite green.
 
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I'm not even sure what you have. If it's Brooklynella, as @vetteguy53081 suggests, then definitely not copper. You need, as he kindly wrote, a formalin-based medication for that.

But don't use Quick Cure or anything that uses malachite green
How do I determine which it is?
 
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I have to disagree with both of the previous two posts.

First, Rally Pro is not recommended for Ich. The company states that, repeatedly, on their website, and it's even on the bottle. They also do manufacture "Kick Ich", but I've heard it's useless.

Feeding frozen food won't help you eradicate parasites, enhanced with nutrients or not. The only thing that's been proven -- with the scientific method -- to work is starvation (TTM or fallow periods) or medication (copper, a few other treatments). Everything else is a crapshoot with no guarantees of success.
I guess this is BS then
 
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do you have access to a big UV ? If you cant pull all your livestock and tear your tank down, i would recommend this in the future. 2
 
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I guess this is BS then
Absolutely. That website sometimes offers some adequate basic advice, but it also functions as an advertorial, promoting certain specific products for which I suspect they're paid. "BS" is a bit harsh for them, but not by much. Again -- the makers of Rally Pro do NOT endorse its use for ich, and as far as I know, Rally Pro doesn't have any ingredients that can treat it. And neither does their other product, "Kick Ich".
 
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Its brook.

Everyone, Vetteguy is a real expert and veteran on this forum and I trust his judgement. If you want a second opinion, post a video and ping jay hemdal. He is the resident "doctor".
 
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Everyone, Vetteguy is a real expert and veteran on this forum and I trust his judgement. If you want a second opinion, post a video and ping jay hemdal. He is the resident "doctor".
I agree! When I was having issues with ich and other sicknesses I reached out to Jay and he helped me through and I was able to save a few of my fish before it was too late.
 
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Absolutely. That website sometimes offers some adequate basic advice, but it also functions as an advertorial, promoting certain specific products for which I suspect they're paid. "BS" is a bit harsh for them, but not by much. Again -- the makers of Rally Pro do NOT endorse its use for ich, and as far as I know, Rally Pro doesn't have any ingredients that can treat it. And neither does their other product, "Kick Ich".
It's just one example. Even BRS says Rally. The Ruby webpage say Rally is a treatment for external parasites among others. Not sure what page you read.

But anyway I'm a newbie so considering my options in Australia Reef Medic even after reading the reviews is my only choice for in tank treatment. Our market is not big enough for many to bother investing here. Especially if the medication is and actual pharmaceutical then they have big hoops to jump through.
Just look at the over reaction to COVID here.
 
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How long will the tank need to go without fish? also will i need to remove CUC or anemones?

I would do 45 day min if you turn the heat up to 81-82. You do not need to remove CUC or nems.

I agree it is probably brook... pic is grainy but that was my thought as well.

I would do either a peroxide bath or formalin then into QT and treat with metronidazole. Feshwater bath before QT can also be used if you don't have access to the others.. it gives temporarily relief before the fish goes into QT.

I would not delay treatment.
 
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If I could get Ruby Rally Pro in Australia I would have tried that. All I have is Copper which I used in a QT. But I feel that stresses the fish more than the ICH
I have since put my fish back in my DT and treating with Polypmedic. So far all my fish look to be ICH free
You're in Adelaide so which Copper product are you going to use? Reef Revolution Quarantine?

If you are going that route be aware that you will need a Hanna LR copper, not HR.
The therapeutic dose for that product is between 0.18 and 0.22 ppm. The Hanna HR is not accurate enough.

Regards
Graham.
 
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