Fish won't stop dying!
- Thread starter 1wwoods7
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melypr1985
totally addicted
Ok. so this is obviously just a guess because i can't see them, but it would appear to be ick - make sure to google images of ick and check out the disease forum for more info on these. If it is indeed ick then its in your tank and will stay there until you take all the fish out -treat them seperately in a QT and leave your tank fallow (fishless) for 76 days. This will starve out any parasite that is in there and leave you with a clean slate. A QT is a great investment. Think of all the money and fish you lost over not having a QT and tell your partner how much money you could have saved if you'd had one from the beginning. You'll want to investigate a little more and find out what exact symptoms your fish were displaying and try to figure out exactly what all they had before they died. Then you can form a more focused treatment plan. @Humblefish is the expert around here and can help with that.
I read that too. You shouldn't put copper in the fish's food. That is meant to be in the water. You should also only dose copper if you have an appropriate test for it.
I read that too. You shouldn't put copper in the fish's food. That is meant to be in the water. You should also only dose copper if you have an appropriate test for it.
melypr1985
totally addicted
It could be velvet with them dieing so quickly. But the treatment is the same for both ick and velvet so your safe either way. You'll just continue to lose fish unless you treat the ones you have, let the tank go fallow and treat the new ones before putting them in the tank. Its your choice though.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Here are some helpful links that will help you out.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-treat-ich.191226/
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/page-10#post-2499825
http://reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-treat-ich.191226/
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/page-10#post-2499825
1wwoods7
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Well I think there has been 3 different things. First I think so fish got something in their gills. The second was definitely ich. It had raised up white dots all over its body and my cleaner Wrasse I had wouldn't even touch that fish. Then the third thing was with my clown fish I think they got velvet cause I saw them look like there was sand on them and they died the next day.
Pfisherman
Active Member
Whenever i read these threads i always think that there is something that we are completeley misssing. 20 fish is a lot to lose in less a year, i would like to know wore about how the setup was built. Did you use live rocks? They could have hitch hikers that are killing things. Not completely likely but possible. Do you have old pumps or heaters that may be bus4ed and sending stray voltage into the tank? Ich doesnt kill hardy fish that are eating well, so tbese fish that die are they eating before they die? Impropper acclimation will screw a fishes liver quick, always drip. The way a diver catches a fish is a big deal too. Are you using the same fish supplier for every purchase? There are so many variables for 1 week fish deaths its crazy, lets start from the beginning.
melypr1985
totally addicted
It's very possible. Ick is often found in the gills of fish. Even if they never show spots on the body, they can be harboring ick in the gills. You could check your remaining fish for flukes by doing a fresh water dip on one of the fish. You would use a dark container and check the bottom for tiny white flukes dead in the bottom of it. Flukes is easy to cure with prazipro.
Here is how to do a fresh water dip.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
1wwoods7
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Yes that is what myself and our LFS has been thinking but we are at a loss of ideas on what to do. I do not have live rock and I bought everything brand new from the same fish store that I get my fish. When it comes to them eating I normally notice they will eat until a day before they die and if they don't eat I expect a dead fish the next day. When it comes to acclimation I do a 20 min drip. I hope that helps you get an idea of what might be wrong. The LFS also treats all their tanks with copper but does not quarantine.
1wwoods7
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Well I don't think my fish have anything now. They haven't shown any signs (besides my 2 firefly gobies diving to the sand a couple times a week, which I was told that is then playing/showing off) for about 5 weeks now since my last fish died ( coral Beauty and a cleaner Wrasse)
I would look at getting a uv as well just to help but as said before if your fish are health they should fight it off. If you've had the other fish since the start then you can strike of contaminants in the water because all your fish will be dead.
Reef_Junkies
Active Member
Sorry to say but it sounds like you need to tear your tank down and start over. New sand, new rocks, new water etc... Like everyone else said, quarantine the fish you still have for at least a month while you cycle a new set up. Make sure to use RO water and check it routinely with a TDS meter to make sure it's clean. I've heard stories of LFS selling bad RO water to customers so it's always good to keep them in check. UV Sterilizer is probably one of the best investments I made, though it's a hit and miss with a few people. It won't do anything for your current parasite breakout but will help keep everything at bay. Make sure no water that comes from the fish store enters your display tank!
Reef_Junkies
Active Member
Oh and make sure you have a Copper test kit to ensure you're not overdosing the Cupramine. High levels of copper can be deadly for your fish.
melypr1985
totally addicted
I certainly have nothing against a UV sterilizer but its not going to cure anything. It's a way to manage with it. Your fish may not be showing signs now, but they are harboring parasites in their gills, its also on the rocks, the sand and in the water itself. As long as there is a fish to host the parasite's life cycle will continue. Going fallow is the only way to make sure the parasites are dead and gone. Qt is the best way to make sure you dont introduce more parasites with new fish. Never put the LFS's water in your tank with new fish.
Now, if you have in fact put copper in your display you'll have a very hard time removing it from the rocks and sand. So yes, if you want corals or other inverts in there you'll need to do something about that. You can try to run carbon and other media that will remove the copper from the water but you run the risk of it leaching back into the water again from the rocks and sand. In that case, you may need to break it all down and do a thorough cleaning. That will lead to letting the tank cycle once again while your fish are in QT. Either way, the display goes fishless for a while.
Its your decision. The parasites arn't going to go away without intervention. Good luck
Now, if you have in fact put copper in your display you'll have a very hard time removing it from the rocks and sand. So yes, if you want corals or other inverts in there you'll need to do something about that. You can try to run carbon and other media that will remove the copper from the water but you run the risk of it leaching back into the water again from the rocks and sand. In that case, you may need to break it all down and do a thorough cleaning. That will lead to letting the tank cycle once again while your fish are in QT. Either way, the display goes fishless for a while.
Its your decision. The parasites arn't going to go away without intervention. Good luck
