Fritz Salt Issues?

Chloramines are the only thing that will not read on a TDS. However, they’d have to get by carbon AND the RO membrane. Carbon will easily take care of them as long as they still have life in them.

Yep, was about to suggest this as well. Had this problem once and now test for total chlorine every couple weeks.
 
Chloramines are the only thing that will not read on a TDS. However, they’d have to get by carbon AND the RO membrane. Carbon will easily take care of them as long as they still have life in them.
That's why I'm wondering if the carbon blocks are past exhausted if that could be my issue?
 
Chloramines are the only thing that will not read on a TDS. However, they’d have to get by carbon AND the RO membrane. Carbon will easily take care of them as long as they still have life in them.
Omg my wife did say earlier this last week that the bathtub water smelled like a pool!
 
Hi. Im wondering if anyone has any ideas or advice. I have a 150 g tank. All my parameters are very good. 9.5 dkh 450 calcium 1600 mag and 1025 salinity. 5 nitrites and phosphates are always under .100. My cyphastrea has never extended its polyps and my zoas are slowly wilting only the zoas with long stems. Others are growing and multiplying. Any ideas. Also all my others corals including some sps are great.
 
Never tested freshly made saltwater, never needed to do that.

Water parameters of my system have been very consistent over the years.

DSC_0126.JPG


All water parameters were tested during my die off and were consistent with parameters before the change to Fritz.

Hopefully this answers your questions.
Ok. S
So what about us that have ran p04 from .03 to .05? With similar results as crabs and others in this thread. You telling us to run p04 at 1.0?
Nah that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying that if your phosphates are already low.. like boarder line killing the coral how do know it's the salt. Alot of ,but not all mentioned having low phosphates already.
So what about us that have ran p04 from .03 to .05? With similar results as crabs and others in this thread. You telling us to run p04 at 1.0?
No sir that is not what I'm saying. I am saying there is a alot of play in the accuracy of the tests. Alot of folks already mentioned running low phosphate levels. All I'm saying is that if someone is really running phosphates at 0.009 then they are literally slowly starving their corals. So why would you blame the salt if your po4 was boarder line killing the corals? I dont get it, maybe folks dont understand the conjunction in phosphates, nitrates and having a balanced system.

I did say some, but not all. most of these issues on here can be explained in other ways. I read one now where someone started a biopellet reactor in this thread. Guess what ya probably stripped the nitrates out. It probably wasnt the salt.
 
That's why I'm wondering if the carbon blocks are past exhausted if that could be my issue?

Test your waste water coming out for chlorine or chloramines with a test strips for free and total chlorine.
 
Ok. S

Nah that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying that if your phosphates are already low.. like boarder line killing the coral how do know it's the salt. Alot of ,but not all mentioned having low phosphates already.

No sir that is not what I'm saying. I am saying there is a alot of play in the accuracy of the tests. Alot of folks already mentioned running low phosphate levels. All I'm saying is that if someone is really running phosphates at 0.009 then they are literally slowly starving their corals. So why would you blame the salt if your po4 was boarder line killing the corals? I dont get it, maybe folks dont understand the conjunction in phosphates, nitrates and having a balanced system.

I did say some, but not all. most of these issues on here can be explained in other ways. I read one now where someone started a biopellet reactor in this thread. Guess what ya probably stripped the nitrates out. It probably wasnt the salt.
I started biopellets. Never got
Ok. S

Nah that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying that if your phosphates are already low.. like boarder line killing the coral how do know it's the salt. Alot of ,but not all mentioned having low phosphates already.

No sir that is not what I'm saying. I am saying there is a alot of play in the accuracy of the tests. Alot of folks already mentioned running low phosphate levels. All I'm saying is that if someone is really running phosphates at 0.009 then they are literally slowly starving their corals. So why would you blame the salt if your po4 was boarder line killing the corals? I dont get it, maybe folks dont understand the conjunction in phosphates, nitrates and having a balanced system.

I did say some, but not all. most of these issues on here can be explained in other ways. I read one now where someone started a biopellet reactor in this thread. Guess what ya probably stripped the nitrates out. It probably wasnt the salt.
I started biopellets. Never got below 20ppm.
 
Test your waste water coming out for chlorine or chloramines with a test strips for free and total chlorine.

Waste water?? Shouldn't you be testing the actual water your going to be using? Who cares what's in the waste, that's why it's called waste.....am I missing something?
 
Waste water?? Shouldn't you be testing the actual water your going to be using? Who cares what's in the waste, that's why it's called waste.....am I missing something?

The waste water has been thru the carbon blocks so it will not have any in it if the carbon blocks are working correct
 
I thought a regular carbon block does not work for chloramines? If your municipality is now using chloramines that would explain how they’re getting through your RODI setup.

I use Fritz, no coral in my tank yet but I have to dose right after a water change to keep my parameters where I want them. My blue box mixes up way below their listed stats. Also my box takes hours to mix clear. The blue box was a donation from Fritz so I am extremely grateful, without them we would never have gotten our tank started. The more I read, the more nervous I get about adding our first coral. I’m also starting to figure out that having to dose right after a water change might not be normal.
 
I thought a regular carbon block does not work for chloramines? If your municipality is now using chloramines that would explain how they’re getting through your RODI setup.

I use Fritz, no coral in my tank yet but I have to dose right after a water change to keep my parameters where I want them. My blue box mixes up way below their listed stats. Also my box takes hours to mix clear. The blue box was a donation from Fritz so I am extremely grateful, without them we would never have gotten our tank started. The more I read, the more nervous I get about adding our first coral. I’m also starting to figure out that having to dose right after a water change might not be normal.

Yes regular carbon blocks will remove chlorine and chloramines to some degree, but not nearly as much as blocks engineered for their removal.

It's correct that waste water has traveled through the sediment filter and carbon blocks and is the rejected water from the membrane. If there is any chlorine or chloramines showing in the waste water , the carbon blocks are spent.

Why not test the water coming out of the DI? Because the deionizing resin will remove them. If it is tested and there isn't any showing on the test strips, you wouldn't know if the carbon blocks are spent.

Does that make sense?
 
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Yes and no...am I wrong in saying DI does not remove chlorine or chloramine? DI is a bonus step for removing extra TDS the membrane doesn't get for extra pure water.

I guess you could always test both :)
 
Going further in this thread and reading lots of whats happening with ricos tank I find amazing how things can get pretty shaky quickly with forums, and so many “reefing
personalities” now sponsored and utilizing all products they endorse. With fritz salt, regardless if it has any fault in all that it is being blamed for, it is definitely shunned as this curse seems to be growing like wildfire on the web.
 
Yes and no...am I wrong in saying DI does not remove chlorine or chloramine? DI is a bonus step for removing extra TDS the membrane doesn't get for extra pure water.

I guess you could always test both :)

Testing your waste water is the way you test to see if your carbon blocks are spent!

Here's some back up:



Happy Reefing!
 

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