Got fish with ICH!!

So I'm trying to Calibrate my Refractometer that I got from Bulk Reef Supply. It has a big stock that says "DO NOT CALIBRATE TO ZERO! USE INCLUDED CALIBRATION SOLUTION"

so I'm using the solution that is 35ppt to calibrate, but EVERY time I test it it comes out different.

Not sure what to do

1519871716293963363314.jpg 20180228_213627.jpg
 
So I'm trying to Calibrate my Refractometer that I got from Bulk Reef Supply. It has a big stock that says "DO NOT CALIBRATE TO ZERO! USE INCLUDED CALIBRATION SOLUTION"

so I'm using the solution that is 35ppt to calibrate, but EVERY time I test it it comes out different.

Not sure what to do

1519871716293963363314.jpg 20180228_213627.jpg

I have that same refractometer/calibration solution and haven't experienced that. Are you thoroughly wiping it off between uses? I like to rinse mine with some RODI as well to be certain it is clean.
 
@Humblefish - I can't recall; is CP okay for use with mandarins? If there's brook or velvet in the tank (as it sounds like there may be), then TTM won't help with those, right?

EDIT: AH - should be okay: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

CP is the only way to treat a mandarin with velvet. However, there is still the feeding dilemma for 76 days: Nutramar ova, Masstick, frozen mysis are all options. But the OP will have to be dedicated, feeding 5-6x daily, if the mandy is to have any chance of surviving for 76 days without pods. o_O
 
I have that same refractometer/calibration solution and haven't experienced that. Are you thoroughly wiping it off between uses? I like to rinse mine with some RODI as well to be certain it is clean.
I've rinsed it, dried it, wiped it down like crazy. Every time
CP is the only way to treat a mandarin with velvet. However, there is still the feeding dilemma for 76 days: Nutramar ova, Masstick, frozen mysis are all options. But the OP will have to be dedicated, feeding 5-6x daily, if the mandy is to have any chance of surviving for 76 days without pods. o_O

Definitely not an option.... I'm.out of town for 7 days on the 7th... I'm just at a loss.

I bought these. Any chance I could treat my tank with Ich-X till I get back, then do the full course treatment? No other fish have died, and the dead fish did not look like it had Velvet, and the fish in my DP are only showing signs of Ich 20180228_130617.jpg
20180228_224441.jpg

20180228_224441.jpg
 
Clowns and velvet can be a bit difficult to "see" because of their thick mucous coats and some seem to have individual resistance to the disease. Entire tanks of mixed fish have been wiped out and only the clowns survive, but they are carriers of the disease. But what goes on unseen within the gills can be devastating. Velvet reproduces almost exponentially. So that you have all the tools to help, here's Humblefish's Emergency Velvet Treatment. Note the underlined and bolded passages. Humble has noted increased survival rates when Acriflavine products are used as a bath following a freshwater dip.

Emergency Treatment for Marine Velvet Disease

I recently acquired 3 fish - Longnose Butterfly, Kole Tang, Naso Tang - with velvet. None showed visible physical symptoms right away, but they all came from a tank where velvet was known to be present so I just patiently waited. Before & after pictures will follow immediately after this write-up.

In short, the Butterflyfish didn’t make it; however the two tangs did. The only difference in their treatment was I used formalin (with Methylene Blue) on the butterfly in a bath solution, whereas the tangs got acriflavine (with NO Methylene Blue). It’s also worth noting that the butterfly & Kole Tang showed symptoms the worst, whereas the Naso only had moderate visible symptoms. Tangs are also generally considered hardier than butterflyfish, so there’s that factor to consider as well. Anyway, here is the treatment I used on them:

The short version:
  • 5 minute freshwater dip
  • Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:
  1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
  2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)
  • After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
  • While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
  • Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.


I'm using Coppersafe instead of CP, the dosing asks for 5ml for ever 4 gallons. But nothing more, what would "therapeutic levels" be for that?
 
for some reason I wasn’t getting alerts, but curious if the consensus is that it is in fact ich and not brooklynela? That one clown pic looked like Brook quite a bit
 
for some reason I wasn’t getting alerts, but curious if the consensus is that it is in fact ich and not brooklynela? That one clown pic looked like Brook quite a bit

Brook is certainly possible; combining Metroplex or Metro-MS w/copper would cover: ich, velvet, brook, uronema.
 
I have that same refractometer/calibration solution and haven't experienced that. Are you thoroughly wiping it off between uses? I like to rinse mine with some RODI as well to be certain it is clean.
I've rinsed it, dried it, wiped it down like crazy. Every time it's slightly different. Even with RODI water
 
for some reason I wasn’t getting alerts, but curious if the consensus is that it is in fact ich and not brooklynela? That one clown pic looked like Brook quite a bit
I personally don't think it's Velvet. Brook, maybe... But I think my fish would be dying, or at least the clown would be, and he's showing good signs of health
 
Doesn't seem like the Wrasse or the Blue Regal are going to make it after the Formaldehyde dip. They are sitting in my QT in Copper now. But the Wrasse is sideways and offing some goo
 
Blue regal died, looks like the other clownfish is about to die. Wrasse bounced back, but now I'm getting amonia spikes this quick
 
So sorry for your losses. :-(
It really sucks.. I loved that Blue Tang. Hate to see fish suffer. I'm trying to get someone to just take them for me, so they can have a new home because I can't house them for 76 days.
 

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