Hannah checker, worth it?

Mmnnn.. No video and no reply with explanation.. Must not be much of a user error after all. I pretty much figured and knew this already, but I figured, hey, maybe, just maybe there is a hint of truth to it.. Lol, on the shelf and actually to the garbage that goes..
 
I would go ultra low phosphorous for hanna.

I almost went alk, but it can be off by 1 dkh according to the comparison with a hach. I've also seen numerous people have their alk run afoul with the tester.

red sea pro for everything else.
 
Sorry I have been busy with these 5 kids this week. Sports camp has started and keeps me on my toes!
Video will be soon I promise!
 
Hanna Alkalinity and Hanna Phosphate AWESOME! Hanna Calcium SUCKS not accurate, pain in the ****, readings are always different even when I tested back to back...
I've had the same experience. The Ca is all about getting a pure sample of water (RO/DI). I can't seem to ever do that.
 
i personally never can get the same result twice so i have to test multiple time and get the average
 
I use the Hanna Alk checker and that is great - accurate and easy

I also use the Hanna Phos checker (normal range) and here is my procedure that produces reliable results:

I made this into a resource on our local site and re-posted it here

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Here is my step-by-step guide to using the Hanna Checker HI713 Phosphate Low Range and/or the Hanna Checker HI736 Phosphorus Ultra Low Range meters.

I've read many complaints or comments about inconsistent readings with the Hanna meter, such as "I tested my tank water twice, back-to-back, and I got two very different results".

I have found that following this process results in test readings that are much more consistent from test to test, as certain error factors are reduced as much as possible. You should be able to test the same sample of water repeatedly and get the same result, or at least within a few hundredths (such as test #1 = 0.03 and test #2 = 0.05). The margin of error for this test (per Hanna) is +/- 0.04, which is a pretty wide range.

As with any test, caution needs to be taken with respect to the reagent. The reagents are not super dangerous, but could be in certain circumstances, such as if you ripped the packet open and the powder went airborne right in your face and in inhaled it. That would be bad. So don't do that. Here's some fun PDFs on the reagents:

MSDS Sheet for Reagent 713-25
MSDS Sheet for Reagent 736-25


What you will need:
Hanna Checker & Reagents (duh)
Scissors
Digital countdown timer (kitchen/grill timer, smartphone, etc)

Part 1: Prepare the packet
  1. Loosen up all the reagent by fwapping/tapping/squeezing it with your fingers while rotating the packet (move the air around)
  2. Hold the packet with one corner down and keep tapping to get all the reagent settled into one corner
  3. Cut the packet with a scissors on the 2 top edges (opposite the corner where the reagent is settled)
  4. Open the packet by grabbing the 2 side corners and wiggling it back and forth gently until it opens like a mouth. Sometimes you will have to cut a little more off the edges to get it to open up. Avoid grabbing the tip of the opening and pulling it apart - you don't want to get the reagent on your fingers and you definitely don't want to "pop" open the packet and get all the reagent in the air (see MSDS sheets above for why that is very much bad). If you have to grab the opening and get a little residue on your finger, just rinse it off and avoid freaking out.
  5. Crease one of the sides to creates a spillway for pouring out the packet, using the top edge where the 2 cut edges meet
  6. Set this aside, carefully
Part 2: Zero / Calibrate meter to sample
  1. Fill the vial with the water sample
  2. Wipe the cuvette with a clean glasses-cleaning cloth and flick it a few times with fingertip, make sure there are no air bubbles clinging to the walls or smears on the cuvette
  3. Set your countdown timer to 3 minutes
  4. Turn on the meter, wait until it reads C1
  5. Insert the cuvette & close the top
  6. Press & release the button
  7. After the meter calibrates to the sample and displays C2, start your countdown timer.
Part 3: Mixing in the reagent
  1. Take out cuvette and open
  2. Carefully pour in reagent, lightly tapping packet to get as much as possible in there. Try not to do this too violently as the powder is not something you want to breathe in (read the MSDS)
  3. Place cap on cuvette
  4. With practice, this above process should take about 20-30 seconds. Make a mental note of the time left on the coundown timer.
  5. Hold cuvette horizontal and rock it back and forth. Do NOT shake vigorously. Just keep it rocking to make the big air bubble move the reagent back and forth and get it all dissolved. Keep the bubble moving. I hold the cuvette between my thumb and middle finger and use my index and ring finger to rock it back and forth, or spin it in half-turns. After about 2 minutes of this, it should all be dissolved. No matter what, if your time gets down to 25 seconds left, go immediately to the next step.
  6. Wipe the cuvette with a clean glasses-cleaning cloth and flick it a few times with fingertip, make sure there are no air bubbles clinging to the walls or smears on the cuvette
  7. Insert the cuvette & close the top
  8. Press AND HOLD button for 3 seconds until the meter reads 3:00, then release the button. The meter should start counting down.
  9. Set your countdown timer for 3 minutes and start it, so you don't forget to read the meter, as it will time-out a few minutes after the reading is taken.
  10. Once your timer goes off, check the reading.
Step 4: Cleanup
  1. Immediately remove the cuvette and rinse it and the cap repeatedly in hot water, filling it and shaking it to get it very clean. I do this about 10-15 times, then I rinse with RO water and shake it out and set it aside to dry. This step is especially important if you have a high reading that turns the sample blue, as this will stain the cuvette (Hanna sells a solution for cleaning the cuvette due to this reason, but I've never had to use it as long as this process is followed right after the test)
  2. Throw the packet away, and again avoid doing anything that might cause a "puff" of residual reagent to go in your face or someone else's face, even if you really don't like them.
Extra step for the HI736 Phosphorus Ultra Low Range Checker:

This additional step removes the glass irregularity factor. The cuvettes typically do not have consistent thickness depending on the rotation, so making sure that you zero and test at the same point reduces the error brought out by this irregularity. This can also be done on the low-range checker, which may increase consistency/accuracy, but it will be to a lesser degree.
  1. Mark the mouth of the checker with a Sharpie.
  2. Mark the cuvette near the top at the bend so that you can see the mark when the cap is on.
  3. Whenever you insert the cuvette (both for the calibration and the test steps) make sure to align the checker and cuvette according to these marks.
So that's it! Just remember, when it comes to reagents, when in doubt, don't get it in your eyes or on your skin and don't breathe it in.

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Hope that helps

For the record, don't ever buy the "color of water" checker. This one is only made for turbidity measurements in rivers and lakes and such. It does not work on aquariums to tell you if your water is clear or not when compared to fresh SW. I know, I bought it, it didn't work, I contacted Hanna and that's what they told me, and they let me send it back to them in exchange for an equivalent value in reagents (nice!)

I also use Salifert for Cal, Mag, Potassium (well, I used to...until they discontinued it), and Nitrate low-range, then API for Nitrate high-range, and a Milwaukee digital meter for Salinity (best purchase ever).

I also use a Hanna triple meter for pH/TDS/eC, also one of the best purchases I've made.
 
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I also use a Hanna triple meter for pH/TDS/eC, also one of the best purchases I've made.[/QUOTE]

I have access to one of these at work...and adore it! I know what parameters I need for my hydroponic reservoirs (pH 5.5-5.9, EC 1.7-2.9 for Ca,Mg, N-P-K) . TDS we only use for RO.
How can I use this meter for my SW tanks, and what parameters am I looking for?
 
I bought the cal checker. I was surprised with 2 drops it is accurate. I have not gone over yet but, it is a bit cheaper than red sea and comes out with the same outcome so I may try to do alk
 
I have access to one of these at work...and adore it! I know what parameters I need for my hydroponic reservoirs (pH 5.5-5.9, EC 1.7-2.9 for Ca,Mg, N-P-K) . TDS we only use for RO.
How can I use this meter for my SW tanks, and what parameters am I looking for?

It is actually misleading to call this a triple meter, as there are only two measurements, conductivity (which can be displayed in either conductivity or TDS units) and pH.

I also do not like that it has single point pH calibration. Two point calibration is a lot better.

The conductivity/TDS part of these meters will only be useful for monitoring RO/DI systems, as it doesn't read high enough for limewater potency (about 10 mS/cm) or seawater salinity (about 53 mS/cm).
 
I also do not like that it has single point pH calibration. Two point calibration is a lot better.
The one I have allows for 2 point calibration. I think there is a single-point calibration option though, but I'd have to look at the manual. IIRC 4.01 and 7.01 is what I use to calibrate it.

It is actually misleading to call this a triple meter, as there are only two measurements, conductivity (which can be displayed in either conductivity or TDS units) and pH.
Agree
 
The one I have allows for 2 point calibration. I think there is a single-point calibration option though, but I'd have to look at the manual. IIRC 4.01 and 7.01 is what I use to calibrate it.

Agree

Which one do you have?


The Hanna 9812-5 and 9811-5 both seem to say one point:

http://www.hannainst.com/usa/prods2.cfm?ProdCode=HI 9812-5&id=005002

"Calibration manual at 1 point (all parameters except temperature)"

http://www.hannainst.com/usa/prods2.cfm?ProdCode=HI 9811-5&id=005002

" Calibration manual at 1 point (all parameters except temperature)"
 
The conductivity/TDS part of these meters will only be useful for monitoring RO/DI systems, as it doesn't read high enough for limewater potency (about 10 mS/cm) or seawater salinity (about 53 mS/cm).[/QUOTE]

Thanks. This answers my question. I thought it would be cool to find out more info on my SW chemistry[emoji26] . The unit we use at work has separate pH (4.0/7.0 cal) and EC probes.
 
Thanks. This answers my question. I thought it would be cool to find out more info on my SW chemistry[emoji26] . The unit we use at work has separate pH (4.0/7.0 cal) and EC probes.

If that is the case, then it's conductivity may also read higher than the web site claims for current models, allowing other uses. ;)
 
I initially thought about getting Hanna's, because they looked simple and clean. Based on budget, I purchased Red Sea test kits for Ca, Mg, KH, NO, & PO.

I've found them to be quick, easy, and accurate.

I had issues with my Phosphate levels (kept hovering about 5 ppm). I dosed Phosphat-E (Brightwell Aquatics product...highly recommend) and Red Sea was able to track my progression down to 0.08 over the next 5 days. It also tracked my progression on Ca, Mg, and KH as I dosed my system up from the extremely low levels set by the basic Instant Ocean salt mix (do not recommend) that I used to initially set-up the system.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

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