Help choosing ro/di

[Be102]

I have a 75 gpd BRS system. Since my RODI storage is a 44 gallon Brute trash can, it does not make sense to go with a higher capacity system. Even if I stored water in 2 cans, my Current system would Fill up 88 gallons fast enough.

Yeah I understand completely.. me getting a 200 gpd is a little unnecessary... I just see it as say less than $100 upgrade I get over double my water production but it’s not really necessary just yet

 

[Be102]

Okay so now I’m really confused lol.


I agree with what a lot of you have said regarding just upgrading my filters and whatnot as I will save a lot of $$ in the long run and ultimately have all the upgraded gadgets ( pressure gauge, triple tds monitor as well as a flush kit)

I was just looking at the invoice from when I bought my Rodi from marine depot and I apparently bought a 100gpd unit.

I then was looking closer into then description and apparently I have had my filters in the wrong place??

I guess brs reactors have the stages go from sediment carbon then di

whilst marine depot goes di carbon then sediment??
lol so apparently from my understanding I’ve had them in the wrong spot for who knows how long... ultimately they seemed to do the same thing with 0tds but I apparently also must have gone through my filters faster I assume?

Any suggestions now?
Should I still just buy new filters and then should I follow marine depot or brs setup?
Will I just save all the hassle and buy a new Rodi?


Edit:
on a closer look the two filter setups could possibly the same order.. it could be because brs shows it one way whilst marine depot is showing it the other. I guess it all comes down to whether the water lines are going in the same direction.

I’ve looked at these pictures so long I am starting to question what I know

 

[Be102]

Bump

 

[RocketEngineer]

Mind posting the two pictures in question? That way we can see what has you confused.

 

[lapin]

Water should go from tap to sediment to carbon to ro to di.
Its not a left to right or right to left thing.

 

[Be102]

Mind posting the two pictures in question? That way we can see what has you confused.

This is brs product description

https://s3.amazonaws.com/brsinstructions/brsRODI/4-Stage-RODI-Instructions-2018.pdf

This is marine depot.

https://www.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/MD9113.pdf

 

[Be102]

they all go from sediment to carbon to ro to di

Perhaps the picture is just flipped? I’m pretty sure I haven’t use it the wrong way this whole time lol... but wouldn’t put it past me


do you recommend I just buy all new filters, a new ro membrane, new flow restrictor ( to fix that problem if I got rid of mine or whatever) and then just install them along with a new auto shut off and Float valve?

Or buy the new Rodi with all the stuff and then just buy a float valve?

 

[lapin]

I would use yours and buy new filters, Be sure to get the proper flow restrictor to go with your ro membrane.

 

[siggy]

A few of us are running these, 10 stars out of 5

Vertex Puratek Deluxe 100 GPD RO/DI SYSTEM | Premium Aquatics

Aquarium & Fish Supplies Superstore. Guaranteed Low Prices. Free Shipping for qualified orders. Aquarium supply for your aquarium fish, saltwater aquariums, freshwater aquariums and ponds. The best aquarium lighting, protein skimmers, aquarium chillers, calcium reactors, aquarium pumps for fish...

premiumaquatics.com

 

[Be102]

A few of us are running these, 10 stars out of 5

Vertex Puratek Deluxe 100 GPD RO/DI SYSTEM | Premium Aquatics

Aquarium & Fish Supplies Superstore. Guaranteed Low Prices. Free Shipping for qualified orders. Aquarium supply for your aquarium fish, saltwater aquariums, freshwater aquariums and ponds. The best aquarium lighting, protein skimmers, aquarium chillers, calcium reactors, aquarium pumps for fish...

premiumaquatics.com

Yeah @FARMBOYREEF recommended one of those... just back ordered everywhere I look! lol

 

[Be102]

I would use yours and buy new filters, Be sure to get the proper flow restrictor to go with your ro membrane.

I think this is what I will end up doing... after I put all the parts in the cart it’s still less than a whole new Rodi.. if it’s just plastic housing with some filters my unit should be fine.
If I ever want to upgrade to get more water I can add the water saver upgrade.

 

[lapin]

Yep you can always add on canisters if you need more filtration of any type.
Just going from 100 gpd to 150 gpd ro membrane with the proper restrictor will give you more water.

 

[AZMSGT]

No need to buy all new one. They’re all the same, just go with quality replacement filters.

This x 1000. Don’t throw away money for no reason. No need to buy an entire system. The canisters are all the same. Just the filter elements are different.
Much cheaper just to replace elements than the entire system.
#1. Contact your city and get a water report.
#2. with that report in hand call BRS, spectrapure or Marine Depot and get their recommendations on how best to tweak your present system. The first people that tells you you need a new system hang up.
#3. you shouldn’t need to spend or do much to get your system running better. Worst case you might need a pump. Pump kits can make a big difference in an under performing system.

Don’t expect your RODI system to ever produce water at a fast rate. It’s just not gonna happen.

In the end, it’s your money, do what you think is best.

 

[Be102]

This x 1000. Don’t throw away money for no reason. No need to buy an entire system. The canisters are all the same. Just the filter elements are different.
Much cheaper just to replace elements than the entire system.
#1. Contact your city and get a water report.
#2. with that report in hand call BRS, spectrapure or Marine Depot and get their recommendations on how best to tweak your present system. The first people that tells you you need a new system hang up.
#3. you shouldn’t need to spend or do much to get your system running better. Worst case you might need a pump. Pump kits can make a big difference in an under performing system.

Don’t expect your RODI system to ever produce water at a fast rate. It’s just not gonna happen.

In the end, it’s your money, do what you think is best.

Can you explain the difference to me between 98% and 99% rejection rate? Which would be preferred? If I have a 100gpd ro right now and replaced that I think I would go to 150gpd with the 99% rejection rate flow restrictor.. I am thinking that will make my filters last longer correct??

Also does the auto shut off setup shut off both the waste and ro water line? Will that ideally basically stop consuming water all together or will waste still run down the drain?

 

[lapin]

98 / 99 its not that important as 1% is not a lot of difference.
The only filter that will last longer is the di resin.
The ro is before the di resin but after the other filters.
Flushing the membrane once in a while (if you have a flush valve) will help increase the life of your ro membrane.
Im not sure if you have the cartridge or a refillable canister insert for resin. A refillable canister with insert is cheaper because you can by mixed bed resin in bulk and fill it yourself.

 

[RocketEngineer]

FYI, the marine depot manual is confusing as it’s backwards (R to L) from how most folks read (L to R).

If you already have a 100gpd system, you just need a new membrane. The 150 and 200 gpd systems use TWO membranes which means another membrane housing and all the fittings to retrofit it into place. Doable, but just replacing would be easier (and cheaper).

 

[Be102]

.

FYI, the marine depot manual is confusing as it’s backwards (R to L) from how most folks read (L to R).

If you already have a 100gpd system, you just need a new membrane. The 150 and 200 gpd systems use TWO membranes which means another membrane housing and all the fittings to retrofit it into place. Doable, but just replacing would be easier (and cheaper).

ultimately I think I will hold off on the new membrane as overall the water production I have is fine for right now. I fell into the rabbit hole of membranes and flow restrictors along with rejection rates and whatnot.

as of now I think the best idea will be to just get all new filter replacements ( as long as my ro) housing will hold the new gpd ro as I expect it to.

I didn’t realize all filters and whatnot were similar and that I comes down to just re-running the waste water through another membrane resulting in lower tds and more water production


I could be wrong but if I bought

New 3 filter setup ( carbon/sediment/ di)
New ro membrane (100 or maybe two 75 gpd?)
Flow restrictor
Auto shut off kit ( comes with float valve and auto shut off)

I would still be cheaper then a new ro unit itself..

yes the ease of just plugging the new one in will be easy but I assume I still need to install some parts which is basically the same as what I would do on my Rodi.

 

[Be102]

One other question... if I did do the upgrade kit and added another membrane; would I end up adding a second flow restrictor or is it just one per system?

 

[lapin]

one per system

To install the 150gpd Water Saving Upgrade kit:

1. Install the new membrane into the membrane housing and screw on the cap
2. Snap the membrane clips to the new membrane housing.
3. Snap the new membrane housing to the existing membrane housing.

4. Remove the waste water line from the existing membrane housing.

5. Route a tube from the waste water line from the existing membrane to the feed port of the new membrane.

6. Install the waste water line that was on the existing membrane housing onto the waste water port of the new housing.

7. Remove the product water line that connects the existing membrane housing to the auto shut off valve.

8. Cut two new product water lines and connect the product water lines together by running a line from each product water output to the included tube divider (Y fitting).

9. Connect the combined output of the tube divider to the product water input of the auto shut off valve.

That is it, you are done!

 

[Be102]

one per system

To install the 150gpd Water Saving Upgrade kit:

1. Install the new membrane into the membrane housing and screw on the cap
2. Snap the membrane clips to the new membrane housing.
3. Snap the new membrane housing to the existing membrane housing.

4. Remove the waste water line from the existing membrane housing.

5. Route a tube from the waste water line from the existing membrane to the feed port of the new membrane.

6. Install the waste water line that was on the existing membrane housing onto the waste water port of the new housing.

7. Remove the product water line that connects the existing membrane housing to the auto shut off valve.

8. Cut two new product water lines and connect the product water lines together by running a line from each product water output to the included tube divider (Y fitting).

9. Connect the combined output of the tube divider to the product water input of the auto shut off valve.

That is it, you are done!

And my understanding is... if I am planning on getting a larger upgrade kit. I should use a capillary or barrel flow restrictor?