Help Once Again

puccie1

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Can anyone advise what is on my Clarki had him for over a year now only one in tank with this, I believe my other Clarki catching same thing, and can anyone advise of treatment (would Hydrogen peroxide dip help???)..
Thanks

IMG_1122.jpeg
 
Can anyone advise what is on my Clarki had him for over a year now only one in tank with this, I believe my other Clarki catching same thing, and can anyone advise of treatment (would Hydrogen peroxide dip help???)..
Thanks

IMG_1122.jpeg
This is brooklynella with bacterial lesions.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
 
This is brooklynella with bacterial lesions.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
Thank you for the great info, I am always learning.
 
Can anyone advise what is on my Clarki had him for over a year now only one in tank with this, I believe my other Clarki catching same thing, and can anyone advise of treatment (would Hydrogen peroxide dip help???)..
Thanks

IMG_1122.jpeg

Sorry to see - you seem to have the worst luck!

I can see some individual spots, which Brooklynella wouldn't have. Brook is also rare to non-existent in long term captive fish. While I can't rule it out 100%, it also isn't definitely Brook....I think you need to dig deeper into this.

First start would be for us to see a video, of the fish and of the whole tank. then, a bit more history - how long has the fish had this? When was the last fish you added to the tank?

Jay
 
Sorry to see - you seem to have the worst luck!

I can see some individual spots, which Brooklynella wouldn't have. Brook is also rare to non-existent in long term captive fish. While I can't rule it out 100%, it also isn't definitely Brook....I think you need to dig deeper into this.

First start would be for us to see a video, of the fish and of the whole tank. then, a bit more history - how long has the fish had this? When was the last fish you added to the tank?

Jay
it seems to be only my clownfish that are dying, I gave him hydrogen peroxide bath for 30 minutes now have him in QT tank. I have Maracyn, Kanaplex, Metronidazole and erythromycin medication can I use anyone of these to treat.
 
it seems to be only my clownfish that are dying, I gave him hydrogen peroxide bath for 30 minutes now have him in QT tank. I have Maracyn, Kanaplex, Metronidazole and erythromycin medication can I use anyone of these to treat.
I thought it was a bacterial infection and your right have no luck into this hobby!!!!!!!!
 
it seems to be only my clownfish that are dying, I gave him hydrogen peroxide bath for 30 minutes now have him in QT tank. I have Maracyn, Kanaplex, Metronidazole and erythromycin medication can I use anyone of these to treat.

What dose did you use for the peroxide? Are you using 3% household grade? How much of that did you add to the bath?

Jay
 
yes on 3% 20 ml in a gallon water (salt) for 30 minutes

O.K., that's the standard 150 ppm dose. Here is the dark secret about that though - that dose comes from a paper that used that it to treat Amyloodinium (velvet) in Pacific threadfins (a food fish). Somebody read that paper, (well, half-read it actually), they missed the point where the treated fish were all moved to a sterile aquarium after each dip. Putting the fish back into the infected tank just allows the fish to get reinfected over and over....so it may slow things down, but it will not cure the fish.

Jay
 
O.K., that's the standard 150 ppm dose. Here is the dark secret about that though - that dose comes from a paper that used that it to treat Amyloodinium (velvet) in Pacific threadfins (a food fish). Somebody read that paper, (well, half-read it actually), they missed the point where the treated fish were all moved to a sterile aquarium after each dip. Putting the fish back into the infected tank just allows the fish to get reinfected over and over....so it may slow things down, but it will not cure the fish.

Jay
I placed him in a qt by himself and dose a little metronidazole in tank
 
I placed him in a qt by himself and dose a little metronidazole in tank
What dose did you use? Metro should be dosed at 25 mg per gallon.
However, it is not a really effective anti-protozoal.
Jay
 
What should I use and do you been always 100% right and I appreciate it

Depends on the circumstances; the tank, other fish, etc. but I generally use Coppersafe for ich or velvet and formalin for Brooklynella.

Did you see any improvement after the peroxide dip? If so, and if you can dip again and then move the fish to a new tank, that might be something to try.

Jay
 
This is brooklynella with bacterial lesions.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
Can I use formalin in my fish tank main one fish only, if so what is the dosage per gallon and the length of the dosing and medication (how many days etc....), will it kill my bacteria bed. Thanking you in advance for your time -Carl
 
What should I use and do you been always 100% right and I appreciate it
What dose did you use? Metro should be dosed at 25 mg per gallon.
However, it is not a really effective anti-protozoal.
Jay
Can I use formalin in my fish tank main one fish only, if so what is the dosage per gallon and the length of the dosing and medication (how many days etc....), will it kill my bacteria bed. Thanking you in advance for your time -Carl
 
Can I use formalin in my fish tank main one fish only, if so what is the dosage per gallon and the length of the dosing and medication (how many days etc....), will it kill my bacteria bed. Thanking you in advance for your time -Carl
It may affect bacteria but you want to use it in a quarantine tank and not display tank
the recommended dosage/mix is 1ml per 10 gallons. If you dont have a pipette or similar to measure m/l, do not exceed 2 drops per day
 
Can I use formalin in my fish tank main one fish only, if so what is the dosage per gallon and the length of the dosing and medication (how many days etc....), will it kill my bacteria bed. Thanking you in advance for your time -Carl

I do not like using formalin inside homes, it off-gasses and is considered a carcinogen.

The daily dose for formalin is 25 ppm. You need to use 37% formaldehyde gas in water/methanol. That is called "100% formalin". Do not use 10% NB formalin, that is a fixative.

To calculate the dose, you use the exact water volume of the tank (minus displacement for any rocks/gravel, but adding in the volume of any sump) and multiply that by 25 and then divide that by 264. So - if you had a tank that holds exactly 100 gallons, the math work out like this: 100 * 25 / 264 = 9.5 ml of formalin.

That said, I can almost ALWAYS find an alternative to using formalin.

Jay
 

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