Help with sump.

domination2580 · Jun 5, 2017

Can someone please explain to me how i lose flow using the vinyl? [emoji5]

justingraham · Jun 5, 2017

domination2580 said:
If I hard plumb it up to the tank I would still need a connector to go from 3/4 to 1/2 due to the pex pipes going in for the return.

Yea but that a 37 cent piece
I don't know if it were my tank and I was going to be paying that electric bill I mine as well get the most flow possible for the kilowatts

domination2580 · Jun 5, 2017

justingraham said:
Yea but that a 37 cent piece
I don't know if it were my tank and I was going to be paying that electric bill I mine as well get the most flow possible for the kilowatts

I'm on a tight budget guys. I live in south Dakota and make 11.30 an hour.... So mind you I am on a little tighter budget than most. And yes i could do 3/4 all the way, but would have to buy the pvc and connectors along with a true union flap valve to stop back siphoning... And bulkhead, this is the plan long term but waiting for more money guys.

justingraham · Jun 5, 2017

domination2580 said:
Can someone please explain to me how i lose flow using the vinyl? [emoji5]

Here is the simple answer more surface area for the water to stick to which slows it down. The wider the hole the less water touches the surface and less that actually comes in contact with the inside diameter of the pipe. Bigger is better in this situation not about how u "use it"

domination2580 · Jun 5, 2017

justingraham said:
Here is the simple answer more surface area for the water to stick to which slows it down. The wider the hole the less water touches the surface and less that actually comes in contact with the inside diameter of the pipe. Bigger is better in this situation not about how u "use it"

It will be bigger vinyl to start

justingraham · Jun 5, 2017

domination2580 said:
I'm on a tight budget guys. I live in south Dakota and make 11.30 an hour.... So mind you I am on a little tighter budget than most. And yes i could do 3/4 all the way, but would have to buy the pvc and connectors along with a true union flap valve to stop back siphoning... And bulkhead, this is the plan long term but waiting for more money guys.

I don't have check valves u don't need them either make sure u have a syphon hole in the nozel right below the water line does the same thing except it doesn't cost 50 dollars

domination2580 · Jun 5, 2017

justingraham said:
I don't have check valves u don't need them either make sure u have a syphon hole in the nozel right below the water line does the same thing except it doesn't cost 50 dollars

Please explain

justingraham · Jun 5, 2017

When the pump shuts off the water is in a syphon so that's why water flows backwards into the sump and people use a check valve to stop the water from flowing back it stops the syphon technically and that's why no more water goes backwards. Well what stops a syphon is air. So if you drill a 1/32 hole right underneath the water line when the water drains that 1/16 of an inch it will then start sucking in air and stop the syphon from continuing. Look at my build thread for some photos I think I have them up. But I make sure the holes are not being covered whenever I clean my tank just in case because if the were covered the syphon wouldn't stop till my nozel was out of the water and that's like 30 gallons. But where I put the holes when I shut off my returns pumps I drain maby 6-7 gallons of water out of my display tank and I still have like ten gallons of room left in my sump. I have no check valves to clean it replace when they go bad cause they do go bad quite often I just have to make sure the holes are free of any debris and it works perfectly