High ppm all of sudden?

Well, we know that the DI is spent.
I think what you're seeing is the DI leaching back into the water.
I would like you to do this test over but let's remove the DI completely.
 
Good morning. I did what you told me. I woke up. Took a deep breath, and got to work. I grabbed an empty cup. Filled it with my tap water. 63ppm again. Ran the unit flush is closed and DI disconnected. Ran it exactly for 10 min. Filled. 116ppm. Worth to note that the 3 cartidges on my rodi are not empty? I dont know if thats going to change anything. They are filled to the top. But yes thats the resulrs with 2 different pens. So now we can argue all day hows thats wrong. But thats what im getting.


Can you take some pictures and post and tell us where you are measuring?
 
Can you take some pictures and post and tell us where you are measuring?
Also, we should see how all the hoses are connected. Just to make sure it's setup correctly. Even BRS can make mistakes. ;)
 
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Video Number 3. You say red line is waste. However it looks like the blue line is connected to the flush valve. The flush valve is the waste line, not the RO line. Collect water from the Red line going to the sump pump and test that.

Where is the other end of that red line going to the sump pump connected? Photo?
 
Video Number 3. You say red line is waste. However it looks like the blue line is connected to the flush valve. The flush valve is the waste line, not the RO line. Collect water from the Red line going to the sump pump and test that.

Where is the other end of that red line going to the sump pump connected? Photo?

My thoughts also.
 
Video Number 3. You say red line is waste. However it looks like the blue line is connected to the flush valve. The flush valve is the waste line, not the RO line. Collect water from the Red line going to the sump pump and test that.

Where is the other end of that red line going to the sump pump connected? Photo?
Wait im sooo confused? What? Yes the blue line going from the flush valve is the one that goes to DI correct?
 
Actually looking at the pictures, its plumbed correctly. Your just pulling off the wrong line to take your measurements. The black line coming from the second RO, and going to the flush valve is the waste line.

Just pull the line going into the DI canister, and measure the water coming out of it after you flush the system.
 
From your pictures....

The blue line coming off the second RO membrane, should go to the DI canister?

I have the same exact system minus the booster pump.
 
The 2 blue lines coming out of each RO housing is the RO water. They should recombine somewhere.
I think the simplest thing would be to test the water coming out of the red line going to your sump pump. My guess is that is your RO water.

I would still like to see where the other end of that red line going to your sump is connected if you could get a photo.
 
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When you get this working correctly your next set of DI resin will last a long time since your source water is only 63 tds.
 
Nope.

Something is messed up in your routing.
Okay i feel so embaraced. Haha im so dumb i apologize from yall. I changed the line yesterday i got a longer red line for my sump pump. And it seems i got the lines mixed up. And i burned my DI that way. Now it shows that after the RO is 1ppm. And after the DI 14ppm. So all i have to do now is change the DI. And im going to order the spliter so i can avoid the TDS creep.
 
So you directed the waste water to your DI, and the RO water to waste.

Yup that will kill DI pretty quickly.
I apologize for real from everyone here. It seems like iv been running that wrong setup the whole 2 weeks. Should i only change DI? Or change the membrance and everything else after that big messed up?
 
Okay i feel so embaraced. Haha im so dumb i apologize from yall. I changed the line yesterday i got a longer red line for my sump pump. And it seems i got the lines mixed up. And i burned my DI that way. Now it shows that after the RO is 1ppm. And after the DI 14ppm. So all i have to do now is change the DI. And im going to order the spliter so i can avoid the TDS creep.
Mistakes happen. Good news is the system is working properly with 1ppm RO.
You can either order bulk mixed bed DI resin and refill and pack them yourself or order new cartridges to install. It's not really that hard to refill them yourself but can be a bit messy..

Any other questions on figuring out the connections once you get the 3way valve just ask.
 
I apologize for real from everyone here. It seems like iv been running that wrong setup the whole 2 weeks. Should i only change DI? Or change the membrance and everything else after that big messed up?
Everything is fine other than the DI which need replacing.
 

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