High ppm all of sudden?

[homer1475]

Carbon block is the second or third canister in your series. Some run 2, some run 2 sediment filter, but typically it's right after the sediment filter.

It's typically a black cartridge with white webbing.

No problem at all. We were all noobs at one point.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Carbon block is the second or third canister in your series. Some run 2, some run 2 sediment filter, but typically it's right after the sediment filter.

It's typically a black cartridge with white webbing.

No problem at all. We were all noobs at one point.

So i shouldnt be worried you mean as if i have chlorine the carbon block willl take care of it? In my RO? And if thsts the case whats the 50 tds i introduced to my system?

 

[homer1475]

Chlorine will destroy a RO membrane, so no, chlorine will not be removed by the RO.

The carbon block is what removes it. If you have chloramines, the carbon block may remove it until it's depleted(no way to tell), then it will enter the RO membrane, and trash that.

The 50 TDS is likely TSD creep. Your DI resin was cleaning it up, until it was exhausted. The more you put water through depleted DI, it will unbind some of what it bound, resulting in higher TDS then what is coming out of the RO membrane.

 

[homer1475]

As a side note.....

No real way to tell if your pre filters are used up other then a pressure gauge. As the pressure drops, it tells you your pre filters are used up and time to replace them.

On my system, just as a precaution, when I change out my DI resin, I change all my pre filters too.

 

[KStatefan]

The system that you linked has two carbon blocks and will remove chlorine and chloramines. I would not worry about that with as little of water you have made.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Chlorine will destroy a RO membrane, so no, chlorine will not be removed by the RO.

The carbon block is what removes it. If you have chloramines, the carbon block may remove it until it's depleted(no way to tell), then it will enter the RO membrane, and trash that.

The 50 TDS is likely TSD creep. Your DI resin was cleaning it up, until it was exhausted. The more you put water through depleted DI, it will unbind some of what it bound, resulting in higher TDS then what is coming out of the RO membrane.

Okay thanks

 

[Notsolostfish]

As a side note.....

No real way to tell if your pre filters are used up other then a pressure gauge. As the pressure drops, it tells you your pre filters are used up and time to replace them.

On my system, just as a precaution, when I change out my DI resin, I change all my pre filters too.

I run at a pressure of 80psi. With my booster pump? I should change all of them. I just cant believe this is happening to me. I got the unit 2 weeks ago...

 

[Spare time]

How do i bypass it

I just used a T and two valves with one line going to the drain and the other to the DI resin

 

[Notsolostfish]

As a side note.....

No real way to tell if your pre filters are used up other then a pressure gauge. As the pressure drops, it tells you your pre filters are used up and time to replace them.

On my system, just as a precaution, when I change out my DI resin, I change all my pre filters too.

Im honesty very confused. What my next step should be now? Get the valves, and the y splitter. And change all filters? Im not sure how to avoid this issue in the future.

 

[KStatefan]

Im honesty very confused. What my next step should be now? Get the valves, and the y splitter. And change all filters? Im not sure how to avoid this issue in the future.

Source TDS 133
After Membrane TDS ?
After DI TDS 15

Knowing what the TDS is coming out of the membrane will help figure out your next step.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Source TDS 133
After Membrane TDS ?
After DI TDS 15

Knowing what the TDS is coming out of the membrane will help figure out your next step.

After membrance? How do i test after membrance. And actually after DI it starts at 10 and goes up to 50

 

[KStatefan]

After membrance? How do i test after membrance. And actually after DI it starts at 10 and goes up to 50

The system you posted a link for comes with HM Digital Inline Dual TDS Meter

Is that correct?

If so slide the switch to in to get that number

 

[homer1475]

Disconnect the line going into the DI, run into cup, measure with pen.

All I would do, test after RO, depending on that number I would either replace the RO, or leave it be. It all depends on the number you get.

If the post RO number is fine, then the membrane is fine, but we need to know what that number is.

For now, to fix your current issue:
Replace DI resin, install 3 way valve, and Y. Flush the unit as describe before each use.



For future upgrades, might want to consider the 3 probe TDS meter. That way you can test your incoming water, post RO, and post DI.

Knowing the post RO number will help you flush the unit better, and let you know when the RO needs to be replaced.

 

[Shirak]

After membrance? How do i test after membrance. And actually after DI it starts at 10 and goes up to 50

unplug the line going into the DI canisters. Let that water flush for a couple minutes then collect a sample to test with your TDS pen.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Disconnect the line going into the DI, run into cup, measure with pen.

All I would do, test after RO, depending on that number I would either replace the RO, or leave it be. It all depends on the number you get.

If the post RO number is fine, then the membrane is fine, but we need to know what that number is.

For now, to fix your current issue:
Replace DI resin, install 3 way valve, and Y. Flush the unit as describe before each use.



For future upgrades, might want to consider the 3 probe TDS meter. That way you can test your incoming water, post RO, and post DI.

Knowing the post RO number will help you flush the unit better, and let you know when the RO needs to be replaced.

Why the water is faster when flushing?

 

[Shirak]

Maybe this will help. Simple 3way valve on the RO line before it goes to the DI. You can also accomplish the same thing with a T splitter and a couple valves. Opening the RO Flush valve and shutting the DI bypass valve will clear the first half gallon of RO water before sending it to the DI. After a couple minutes shut the RO Flush valve and open the DI Bypass valve and water will go through to the DI stage. I collect the RO flush water and use on plants and coffee maker etc.

 

[Dburr1014]

Why the water is faster when flushing?

Flushing is nothing more than opening a faucet. Water is going past the membrane to rid of built up contaminates.

 

[Dburr1014]

 

[Notsolostfish]

Disconnect the line going into the DI, run into cup, measure with pen.

All I would do, test after RO, depending on that number I would either replace the RO, or leave it be. It all depends on the number you get.

If the post RO number is fine, then the membrane is fine, but we need to know what that number is.

For now, to fix your current issue:
Replace DI resin, install 3 way valve, and Y. Flush the unit as describe before each use.



For future upgrades, might want to consider the 3 probe TDS meter. That way you can test your incoming water, post RO, and post DI.

Knowing the post RO number will help you flush the unit better, and let you know when the RO needs to be replaced.

Homer. I just got back from work did 3 different tests. One fkr my maib source waterm was 63ppm. Then did a test disconnected the DI. Flushed for 3min. Checked my RO. Without DI. And its giving me 116 ppm. Whats happening? And then DI connected i get like 63ppm.

 

[Dburr1014]

Homer. I just got back from work did 3 different tests. One fkr my maib source waterm was 63ppm. Then did a test disconnected the DI. Flushed for 3min. Checked my RO. Without DI. And its giving me 116 ppm. Whats happening? And then DI connected i get like 63ppm.

That's not right??
I think you have a bad membrane.