High ppm all of sudden?

[homer1475]

I have not. How do i check that? Any test kit? And even if there is thr 6 the stage wouldnt take care of it?

My meter is a 3 probe meter. I check incoming TDS(tap source), after the RO, and after the DI.

 

[Notsolostfish]

My meter is a 3 probe meter. I check incoming TDS(tap source), after the RO, and after the DI.

I have a TDS meter on the unit itself. And i have a tds pen? How do i test it? And how do you determine chlorine just from the TDS number?

 

[homer1475]

I have a TDS meter on the unit itself. And i have a tds pen? How do i test it? And how do you determine chlorine just from the TDS number?

In your case, you would have to unplug the line going into the DI, and run it into a cup and test it with the pen, or get a 3 probe meter(i got tired of unplugging the line).

Chlorine, or chloramines would have to be tested with a chlorine test strip. BRS usually gives them away with every new unit.

Insta-Test Free & Total Chlorine & Chloramine Strips (Fresh Water)

Why does BRS recommend this? The easiest way to know if your city uses chlorine or chloramines is by using the LaMotte Test Strips for Free and Total Chlorine. Water Treatment facilities can change their treatment process without notice and usually change the amounts of disinfectants used...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Triple Inline TDS Meter TRM-1

Why does BRS recommend this? Using a RODI system without a TDS meter is like driving a car without a speedometer and gas gauge. At some point you will end up in trouble. With RODI systems it is TDS that you will want to monitor for performance and filter quality. If you have a single or dual...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Dburr1014]

Im going to double check it today. So you are saying its high enough to burn my resin that fast? I use my RO unit frequently. So far i used it to make 1 44 gallon water change. And more frequent evaporation add up.

Yes, my well water is 42ppm.
City water can be way, more 200+

The best way to make water is to do as much as you can in 1 shot. You will burn thru more di if it toggles on and off often.
Get thru the RO creep once and make a big batch.

How hard is it to change DI resin? Never did it before. And i couldnt find a good youtube video to show me how they open the cartidges, and etc. Do u know any good video?

It's easy to change out. BRS has a video of doing it.
Unscrew the housing and there is another insert that holds the media. That also unscrews. Pack the new media and put it all back together.
Definatly watch the video. They show you how to pack it.

After you burn through enough you may want to recharge the old media but that is a whole other thread topic.

Good luck!

Edit: Homer found the video, your in good hands!

 

[homer1475]

FWIW, you will deplete the DI faster running the unit on short bursts, rather then long runs. Best to use the unit for large amounts of water, rather then turning it on and off for small amounts of water.

 

[Notsolostfish]

FWIW, you will deplete the DI faster running the unit on short bursts, rather then long runs. Best to use the unit for large amounts of water, rather then turning it on and off for small amounts of water.

Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate that a lot. One last question for the 3 way valve. Once you are done flushing. U turn the flush back up to get the water to DI. What happen to the waste line? It stops correct? Its not like when i turn the valve back to DI the water still flows through the waste?

 

[homer1475]

When you turn the valve to go to your DI, the waste line will be empty. Of course you still have waste(from the RO membrane), but nothing will come out of the waste line on the 3 way valve.

All your doing is splitting the line that goes into the DI, so when you turn the valve, you stop directing water from the waste line, into the DI canister.

No problem in the help, its what we are all here for, to help each other.

 

[KStatefan]

Thats the DI color. And the other 3 im assuming they are filling buti cant see clearly to see if there water inside or not.

From this picture it looks like you have a sensor in and out of the DI resin. What are those two reading?

 

[homer1475]

I think you might have things mixed up here from the wording of the last post.

The flush valve, just runs low pressure water over the RO membrane to "flush" the membrane. Water is still going into your DI. When you close the flush valve, it pouts pressure on the system allowing water to be forced through the RO membrane as opposed to just running over the membrane.

While your flushing the membrane the high TDS water is going to go into your DI resin. Installing the 3 way valve, you can flush that high TDS water down the drain. So while flushing, you turn the valve so all water goes down the drain.

Close the flush valve, turn the 3 way valve so it now goes into the DI canister. You still have waste water coming out of the RO canister.

 

[Notsolostfish]

I think you might have things mixed up here from the wording of the last post.

The flush valve, just runs low pressure water over the RO membrane to "flush" the membrane. Water is still going into your DI. When you close the flush valve, it pouts pressure on the system allowing water to be forced through the RO membrane as opposed to just running over the membrane.

While your flushing the membrane the high TDS water is going to go into your DI resin. Installing the 3 way valve, you can flush that high TDS water down the drain. So while flushing, you turn the valve so all water goes down the drain.

Close the flush valve, turn the 3 way valve so it now goes into the DI canister. You still have waste water coming out of the RO canister.

Thank you for the explanation. I checked my tds coming from the main water source. Abd its 133pm. 30 ppm after DI jesus.

 

[homer1475]

Ok now check it after the RO. Directly after turning the unit on. Then check it again after running it for a while with the flush valve open(I find my TDS comes down after about 3 minutes of flushing).

Bet it's probably upwards of 200+ after the unit has been sitting for a little while not being used.

So your pushing that high TDS water into your DI. Not hard to understand why it's being used up so fast now that someone explains it to you?

 

[Notsolostfish]

Ok now check it after the RO. Directly after turning the unit on. Then check it again after running it for a while with the flush valve open(I find my TDS comes down after about 3 minutes of flushing).

Bet it's probably upwards of 200+ after the unit has been sitting for a little while not being used.

So your pushing that high TDS water into your DI. Not hard to understand why it's being used up so fast now that someone explains it to you?

Noticed that my DI resins are not empty even when i shut down the water is that normal?

 

[homer1475]

Yup.

It may also not fill completely when you change out the resin. Completely normal. You can "burp" the air from the DI resin canister by unscrewing while running, but it is not necessary.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Yup.

It may also not fill completely when you change out the resin. Completely normal. You can "burp" the air from the DI resin canister by unscrewing while running, but it is not necessary.

I did fill my tank yesterday for evaporation. Without realizing its not 0tds. Now im nervous that i introduced chlorine to my system. I did it yesterday night.

 

[homer1475]

DI will clean up chlorine, and chloramines, but at the expense of the resin.

Kind of why I asked if you have checked for chlorine/chloramines. Not only will they ruin the RO membrane, but after it makes its way through the membrane, it will deplete DI resin super fast.

Your carbon blocks is what will remove chlorine/chloramines.

 

[Notsolostfish]

DI will clean up chlorine, and chloramines, but at the expense of the resin.

Kind of why I asked if you have checked for chlorine/chloramines. Not only will they ruin the RO membrane, but after it makes its way through the membrane, it will deplete DI resin super fast.

Your carbon blocks is what will remove chlorine/chloramines.

Im honesty all new to this. I didnt get the kit with my purchase from BRS. Im going to order it the one u linked. I noticed the reviews are not that great. But if its good ill buy it. Im just worried, that i introduced any chlorine to my system? But you said the carbon blocks remove them before DI? I added prime just now in my system just from the fear haha. And if i test mybwater and i have high chlorine. What should i do?

 

[homer1475]

If you have chlorine in your system, then everything would be dead.

Reviews are meh, only time people tend to post reviews is when they don't like something, or doesn't work as advertised.

The are just chlorine strips, they work, whats not to like. lol

I don't particularly like them either(got mine with my kit), but I used them once to test my source water, and they sit in my cupboard.

 

[Notsolostfish]

If you have chlorine in your system, then everything would be dead.

Reviews are meh, only time people tend to post reviews is when they don't like something, or doesn't work as advertised.

The are just chlorine strips, they work, whats not to like. lol

I don't particularly like them either(got mine with my kit), but I used them once to test my source water, and they sit in my cupboard.

What do you mean everything would be dead? Like all fish from yesterday's night? I added the water yesterday night. Now im going to order to the test kit for chlorine. But what if i really have chlorine? U said its going to burn my resin everytime. What should i do?

 

[homer1475]

Yes everything would be dead. Just dump some bleach in your tank, what would happen?

if you find you have chlorine, the carbon block will clean it up. If you have chloramines, they make a special chloramine buster cartridge for that.

Thankfully I am friends with the guy who treats our towns water, and he tells me they only use chlorine, not chloramines.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Yes everything would be dead. Just dump some bleach in your tank, what would happen?

if you find you have chlorine, the carbon block will clean it up. If you have chloramines, they make a special chloramine buster cartridge for that.

Thankfully I am friends with the guy who treats our towns water, and he tells me they only use chlorine, not chloramines.

Im sorry man. Haha im literally a noob at this. The carbon block is inside the RO u mean?