How to Reduce DI Resin Consumtion?

A whole house sediment filter would remove UNdissolved solids that don't show up on a TDS meter, but would do nothing to remove hardness or any other ions that are picked up by your TDS meter.
It is a whole home water softener with sediment filter [emoji4]
 
My understanding is the RO membrane is more effective at removing NA ions versus Mg which is where the effectiveness may drive a difference in TDS out of the RO. Would that not mean that less Mg will get past and therefore DI would have less work?

Typical rejection rates for Na are 85%+, for Mg 94%+ and Ca 94%+

Russ
 
Check the PH of the water after it leaves the RO membrane as well. I'm on a well and my water comes out at a ph around 6. If I run that through my DI it exhausts the resin quickly. To remedy this I fill a 55 gallon barrel with RO water and aerate it for 24 hours before pumping it through my DI. Now my DI lasts me about 3 months and I make 55 gallons every week.
 
Well water here also. 1200 TDS at well, 600 TDS after whole house filter and Softner. 12 tds after RO. I have just ordered the three stage BRS DI system. I was getting about 90 gallons from a DI do to CO2.
 
Im on well water and had the exact same issue. I bought a booster pump and saw slight improvement if any at all.

I build a simple aeration system that has extended my di resin consumption by at least 10x.

To do this i route product RO water into a tub which has an air bubble puck glued to the bottom with an airline attached. The 4-8 tds water sits in the tub for 2 days while the bubbler aerates the water.

The water is drawn out of the aeration tub through a lowes bulkhead at the bottom of the tub with the help of a lifter pump and gravity. The water then flows through two di canisters then into its final holding tub.

I was burning through 2 canisters of BRS mixed bed color changing resin every 150-200 gallons which is really crazy!!
Using the aeration system i go through 2 canisters about once a year!! Huge difference :)
 
Im on well water and had the exact same issue. I bought a booster pump and saw slight improvement if any at all.

I build a simple aeration system that has extended my di resin consumption by at least 10x.

To do this i route product RO water into a tub which has an air bubble puck glued to the bottom with an airline attached. The 4-8 tds water sits in the tub for 2 days while the bubbler aerates the water.

The water is drawn out of the aeration tub through a lowes bulkhead at the bottom of the tub with the help of a lifter pump and gravity. The water then flows through two di canisters then into its final holding tub.

I was burning through 2 canisters of BRS mixed bed color changing resin every 150-200 gallons which is really crazy!!
Using the aeration system i go through 2 canisters about once a year!! Huge difference :)
I'm going to try this purely out of desperation lol.

My pH coming out of the RO is 8.5 which is why o don't believe CO2 is a concern for my system.

Who knows though.
 
I'm going to try this purely out of desperation lol.

My pH coming out of the RO is 8.5 which is why o don't believe CO2 is a concern for my system.

Who knows though.
Uh. It’s shoud be like 7.5.
 
Measuring the pH of pure water is tough. If pure, it's totally unbuffered, and will bounce all over the place. So I take the reading you're getting as rather meaningless. And actually, pure water is pH 7.0 (at 25C).

Ph versus Temperature of Water.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Uh. It’s shoud be like 7.5.
Co2 makes it more acidic than basic, right? I would assume the higher ph is because of the hardness of the water.

Thoughts or am I completely of base?
 
Measuring the pH of pure water is tough. If pure, it's totally unbuffered, and will bounce all over the place. So I take the reading you're getting as rather meaningless. And actually, pure water is pH 7.0 (at 25C).

Ph versus Temperature of Water.jpeg
So do a co2 test anyway?
 
Co2 makes it more acidic than basic, right? I would assume the higher ph is because of the hardness of the water.

Thoughts or am I completely of base?
There should be nothing in the water. Thus the nutrial to low PH.

I’d also test the test. Lol.
 
Yes, but do it on raw water right out of the tap. Let it run a couple minutes to get "fresh" water. Now measure pH ASAP. Let it sit over night and measure pH again.
 
Yes, but do it on raw water right out of the tap. Let it run a couple minutes to get "fresh" water. Now measure pH ASAP. Let it sit over night and measure pH again.

pH of 7.6 right out of the tap. I'll update with the reading in 24ish hours.
 
All good suggestions! on another but related note any good deals out there on DI Resin? i know BRS but should be cheaper IMO
 
The best an easiest way to increase the life of your resin is to use a 99% rejection rate RO membrane. Another thing to make sure you have is 1 micron or smaller sediment and carbon filters before the RO membrane (small micron does not mean they clog faster). My resin lasts me between 600-800 gallons depending on how well it is packed. I only used spectrapure filters because I have yet to find any product comparable to quality. My membrane is 3 years old and still produces the same quality output as it did on day one and I generally only have to replace my resin once a year.
 
I have a 150g unit. I added 2 canisters to the front of the system and moved the micron filter and the carbon filter there. Where the OLD micron and carbon filter are, I now put the older di resin that read 1 ppm there. Now I have water that goes...

Micron to Carbon to older DI to RO to newer DI then out. Has tripled my life on my DI.....
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top