I’m getting 26 fish tomorrow- qt help???

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Biospira, biospira, biospira. Put the moorish idols in the 65g with dither fish like the chromis and such, put the mandarin in one of the smaller tanks with some dither fish as well. The dither fish help acclimate difficult to feed to captive living, by showing them what you are feeding is actually food. The main problem with fish like this is, they really just don't recognize the food. If @Humblefish is setting up a qt 24 hrs in advance, I bet you he has a completely viably biological filter that he attached. Like a cycled canister or hob running somewhere on an established tank. People that think they can just take a sponge from a sump usually don't fair very well.
 
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LukeWolf said:
I sorta agree with you. But humblefish sets up a QT 24 hrs before fish. I’ve heard of several people doing this. In hindsight, I probably would have cycled them before, but again this is always what I’ve been told. Hopefully it will work out and I will know for the future!
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Starting from scratch, or using media/filters that have been "percolating" in the regular DT system so they are transplantable????
 
Based on my experience with SeaChem Stability (another bacteria starter product), I am going to highly recommend you follow proper dosing regimen of whatever bacterial product you use. I learned the hard way that you can actually put in way too much of the product, which caused a ton of the bacteria to die off, which caused the water to turn milky white and the ammonia to go off the charts.

I would also advocate having one of those ammonia discs present in the tank, so you can monitor the ammonia at a glance instead of having to do a test. I would also recommend some Ammo Lock to help keep the ammonia non-toxic as levels rise, before you can do a water change.

Ultimately, though, I fear that this is too rushed.........
 
Ok, everyone here is going to be happy. It ended up being 15 fish total that are alive in the tanks. I also dosed biospira and seachem nitrifying bacteria. If you want to read more go here
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Large Build - Luke's 180 gallon In-Wall Dream Tank!

Hello all! I am proud to announce that I am in the process of building my dream tank! This tank is a 180 gallon acrylic aquarium that will be built into a wall in my basement! I will be upgrading to this tank from my current 65 gallon reef. First off, I want to give a huge shoutout to @WWIII and...
www.reef2reef.com www.reef2reef.com
 
Glad your doing QT just be ready for big water changes and aggression after the first 2 weeks.
 
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I hope this all works out for you @LukeWolf. You have a beautiful tank, and a great build thread. The mandarin looks awesome! I hope he eats soon for you.
Sending positive energy your way!
 
I would get a plastic hang on the side acclimation box for the Mandarin so it can be separate from the crowd and eat in peace. Put a small section of PVC pipe in the box as a hiding place.
 
SMB said:
I would get a plastic hang on the side acclimation box for the Mandarin so it can be separate from the crowd and eat in peace. Put a small section of PVC pipe in the box as a hiding place.
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It is in it’s own private tank
 
I normally would quarantine. But in this case I would put them all into the main tank if it is cycled. And set up several quarantine tanks in the meantime in case they are needed. Even in a fully cycled tank adding that much new bioload could cause mini cycles to occur. I wish them all luck. He ready to make lots of water changes.
 
code4 said:
I normally would quarantine. But in this case I would put them all into the main tank if it is cycled. And set up several quarantine tanks in the meantime in case they are needed. Even in a fully cycled tank adding that much new bioload could cause mini cycles to occur. I wish them all luck. He ready to make lots of water changes.
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Thanks! I definitely don’t want to make my DT go through a mini cycle though. And I don’t want disease spreading. I’ve gone through velvet before. Trust me, not fun
 
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LukeWolf I know your fear. But if the ammonia starts going off the chart putting them into your display tank may still be an option. Also make sure you have plenty of oxygen in the tanks. So are there still more fish coming? Hopefully I read that correctly. Fingers crossed.

There is always a chance of a mini cycle when adding new fish to a tank. I would monitor closely when they do move into it for ammonia spikes. Or you could start to ghost feed now to crank up the good bacteria in preparation. Thoughts anyone on this?
 
Just something for you to think about. You have a stable and running 180 gallon main display. Mixing new water is never as perfect as one would like. Swings in parameters often can and do occur from one batch to the next. And your going to be going through a lot of water changes. When I'm quarantining I add my display water to the QT tank and add the new water to the display. My though on this approach is two fold. First the display can more easily take the slight swings being your adding into such a bigger volume. Second is that when QT is over your water parameters in your display and QT tanks will be so close that transfer will be almost stress-less. As this is the interwebs I'm sure there are 100 reasons I shouldn't be doing it this way but it works well for me.

(this part is overkill)
I also keep my QT tank always running using 2 automatic water change systems. The AWC on my main tank pumps the saltwater (waste) from the tank into a 14 gallon plastic drum. The second AWC has this drum as it's (new) water source and adds that to the QT slowly over a 24 hour period. The waste from the QT goes down the drain. QT is a standard 50 gallon.
 
One of the things about quarantine systems is that it gives the fish a chance to settle down/relax - meaning no tank mates to quarrel or compete with. You might want to pick up a couple more small tanks so you can separate the more aggressive fish.
 
billandwende said:
Just something for you to think about. You have a stable and running 180 gallon main display. Mixing new water is never as perfect as one would like. Swings in parameters often can and do occur from one batch to the next. And your going to be going through a lot of water changes. When I'm quarantining I add my display water to the QT tank and add the new water to the display. My though on this approach is two fold. First the display can more easily take the slight swings being your adding into such a bigger volume. Second is that when QT is over your water parameters in your display and QT tanks will be so close that transfer will be almost stress-less. As this is the interwebs I'm sure there are 100 reasons I shouldn't be doing it this way but it works well for me.
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I´m doing my QT in the same way. I do a weekly WC of 180 Liters on my main system. I have a 250 liters (65 gal) QT. I change 60-70% of the water every week and use the water that was going to the drain from the WC sump to fill the QT up again.
In the QT I have cirkulation, light, a few LS, some pvc pipes for hiding and an airstone. No filtration. But I only qarantine a few fishes at the time. At this moment it is A. fowleri, A. dussumieri, two filefish and two Meiacanthus atrodorsalis. All is size small to medium. It works perfectly here.
 
billandwende said:
When I'm quarantining I add my display water to the QT tank and add the new water to the display.

I also keep my QT tank always running using 2 automatic water change systems. The waste from the QT goes down the drain. QT is a standard 50 gallon.
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Big +1 to these. I don't have separate AWC for the QT, but I have it running with four chromises in there to keep HOB filter seeded. It gets pretty gunky pretty quickly, so I'll do a 5g change on it -- it's a 15 long -- maybe weekly. I have Accurasea1 salt in the 5g bags, so it's easy to mix a bucket of new; pull a bucket of water from the DT system to put into the QT tank; and dump a bucket from the QT tank.
 
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I agree with trying to use your display water for QT, but caution that this is only good if you are confident that your display is disease free. If you didn't QT your display then there is some risk in transferring something that you can't see even if your display fish look healthy.
 
code4 said:
LukeWolf I know your fear. But if the ammonia starts going off the chart putting them into your display tank may still be an option. Also make sure you have plenty of oxygen in the tanks. So are there still more fish coming? Hopefully I read that correctly. Fingers crossed.

There is always a chance of a mini cycle when adding new fish to a tank. I would monitor closely when they do move into it for ammonia spikes. Or you could start to ghost feed now to crank up the good bacteria in preparation. Thoughts anyone on this?
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No, there are no more fish coming. If it comes down to it, I will put them in DT. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
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