I have a bryopisis problem and I can't use peroxide.

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I have a problem with bryopsis. I used peroxide on the frags but big Collings I can not pull out of the tank. I have a sea hare that may or may not eat it and magnesium is at 2000. Please help.

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Just had this problem last few months and got rid of it by raising mag levels to 1800 gl it worked for me
 
I riased mine to 2000 and it is not doing anything. Peroxide is the only thing that worked and I can not do it inside the tank:(
 
What did you use to raise the Mg to that level?
If it was techM and a new bottle then you have raised your Mg with no outcome.
I would get right on changing water to reduce that level before serious outcome is seen from inverts.
H2O2 is the best method for bryopsis but you have to be willing to take the rock out for treatment.
 
why cant you dose inside the tank? i did it and took care of my bryopisis. there are plenty of threads on here explaining the process
 
I have had mag for about a month and a half. I also have tons of sps and I don't want to risk them dosing peroxide.
 
If I do dose how much per gallon and is thier any negative side to it?
 
If I do dose how much per gallon and is thier any negative side to it?
 
i have SPS with no effects to them. i dosed 10ML of 3% H202 (perxoide) per 10 gallons and i did it at night when the lights when out. took about 1-2 weeks
 
Will there be harm to a copepod population? I have a thinner mandarin dragonet and I don't want him to starve.
 
That's good.

Do I do this every night or just once.

i was doing it every night for the first week and the second week started doing every other day because i noticed a lot of it dying. you could even take a syringe and target the more effect areas. thats what i did
 
I fought through bryopsis for 3-5 months. Its a challenge but is managable. Kent Tech M magnesium is what I was directed as the only magnesium supplement to help (also is suggested by vivid aquariums). From what I had researched during my struggle with bryopsis is the crucial need for maintaining proper calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels as well as manual removal as much as possible. I use the BRS 2 part calcium and alkalinity, along with the Kent Tech M magnesium when combating bryopsis. Raise your calcium to 460-480 ppm, alkalinity to 10-11 dkh, and magnesium to at least 1600 ppm (but with Kent Tech M magnesium) and maintain those levels best as you possibly can. It really is crucial to maintain steady levels as bryopsis tends to show up when your foundational elements are out of wack. I used my forceps to help pull it out easier and to rip it up from as much of the base of the algae as possible. For the first 6-8 weeks I was pulling it out in huge clumps almost twice a week. It will be quite a frustrating battle, but consistency will give proven results of success, as well as really dialing in on dosing, and will even have massive coral growth by the time it's gone. Its almost a win-win situation when you maintain the consistency.
 
Will there be harm to a copepod population? I have a thinner mandarin dragonet and I don't want him to starve.

Stick with the safer route with the tech m magnesium and proper dosing of calcium and alkalinity. It does take a few longer to get it gone, but it's a for sure safe route to not harm anything in the tank. I prefer the BRS calcium and alkalinity additives because they have the calculator on how much to dose and not over dose anything. It does require consistent testing of the foundation elements, but by the time you're done you will have testing and dosing down as if it were written in the back of your hand.
 
What if

It can be done out of tank..can you imagine the change in dynamic


So let's say you did remove the big colonies and treat out of tank, what negative thing would happen having done that?
 
With my bryopsis problem, I just let the tufts(?) grow out/longer to where i could remove them by hand. Typically i would pinch at the base and pull. FWIW I never did a magnesium treatment on my tank, but manual persistent removal has suppressed about 98% of the bryopsis. In my experience, once you've pulled the bryopsis it seems to have a harder time regrowing in the area it was already growing. Also there was a small correlation between phosphates and photo period.

First tackle phosphates.
After phosphates have been taken care of, reduce photoperiod by 2 hours.
Wait for bryopsis to grow out and it will become a lighter green color and therefore much easier to pull the tufts out.

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Thanks for the help. I will do as reeferFoxx said and during a water change I will do 5ml peroxide per 10 gallon just to be on the safeside.
 

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