Twisted_Blenny
Community Member
i dosed peroxide in my tank with a pistol shrimp, cleaner, and blood. they were all fine with no effects
I have a bryopisis problem and I can't use peroxide.
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i dosed peroxide in my tank with a pistol shrimp, cleaner, and blood. they were all fine with no effects
Steve Maxwell
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NO one commenting on snails but I'm telling you from my personal experience the large ones wiped out. Every type of algae imaginable. They destroyed it all and now my tank is so spotless its sad because Im having to feed heavier to try and encourage quicker algae growth just to feed the snails. Can you imagine going from completely overgrown covered in hair/bryopsis algae to actually trying to grow it? thats where im at right now.
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I fully believe that, have seen pics of margarita snails doing such. It's the repeatability factor...even your snails might change characters when put in other conditions. Nature uses grazers it doesn't nutrient starve algae
Algae still grow in oligotrophic conditions, but under more controlled mass, and grazers have no trouble keeping it in check then. If someone could produce snails that repeatably do the job among tanks, then it will beat the Kent method water dosing which is current #1 bry method used. they are ideal both as removers and preventers if we can catch ones who focus on target
Algae still grow in oligotrophic conditions, but under more controlled mass, and grazers have no trouble keeping it in check then. If someone could produce snails that repeatably do the job among tanks, then it will beat the Kent method water dosing which is current #1 bry method used. they are ideal both as removers and preventers if we can catch ones who focus on target
ksbguppy01
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My clown tang actually ate it out of my system. But i got lucky. Definitely not typical.
Squid
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Literally all you have to do if you want the correct Kent tech m is go on Amazon and read the reviews. Or Google "old Kent tech m bryopsis amazon" and follow the clues. Btw manual removal is not a remedy but a very temporary fix. I tried snails, peroxide both in and out of water, an army of lettuce nudis that couldn't keep up with growth anf emerald crabs. After 8 months and skepticism I looked up and bought the old tech m and my tank was bryopsis free a month later and it's never returned. That was my experience with this nuissance.
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Handy fact about manual removal
Putting liquid X (peroxide, Kent, brightwell, Kalk pastes etc) on bryopsis outside of tank isn't true manual removal, that method still skips a work step and skipping work steps is what sustains an invasion. It will typically beat water treatments however, and it takes a back seat to the real method of manual removal (rasp method)
We can now attain a 100%, non variable bryopsis cure using the rasping method which was invented in the peroxide threads.
It is a known cure, all the time, because without holdfasts bryopsis will not thrive past simple export. Anyone feel like testing... make a test rock it takes all of ten minutes, anyone here just post up your worst bry.
the reason bryopsis regrows after external treatments is due to its anchoring characteristics. Cyano is opposite for example, or dinos.
When we do any action that kills or mows only top end plant mass, and some has safely infiltrated the surface area of rocks or substrate as holdfasts, that housed mass simply grows back. This is why 2000 level mag works most of the time but had variance. Its why grazers that are not parrotfish or hawksbill turtles have variance on bryopsis patches.
*1800-2000 runs routinely kill all the mass, but for the times we can see it didn't, holdfasts were at work and porosity/other variables changing among tanks.
The rasping method is the bunker buster for anchors and if a test rock yields regrowth, then rasping wasn't done correctly. It's a digging move, not brushing, brushes aren't metal. a parrotfish bites rock and poops sand...much meaner on an algae target vs how a nudi removes bryopsis. That's rasping vs manual removal.
By actually going as deep as needed with a metal tool to remove all physical mass, not any plant remains even if you don't use a chemical...so the test rock is forced back to zero plant mass in one setting.
any of the above chems are then used on the worked areas as bit cleanup.
(But I don't want to rasp, it will look bad)
See rasping threads, no it doesn't. The bryopsis is what looks bad, a cured tank spotted back over with coralline since plant dominance was stopped looks great. That's like saying we don't want a free car paint job since the primer stage will have a gray look. If we took care of the original paint job, a redo wouldn't be needed.
The method is more common in nano reefs for obvious work differences, but, large tanks can also use it too--simply act while the bryopsis is on a single rock, don't wait 18 mos in hesitation. Roughly 75% of bryopsis challenge tanks will do fine with water dosing only of magnesium. We like to deal with the outliers that cause people to just about start over.
Putting liquid X (peroxide, Kent, brightwell, Kalk pastes etc) on bryopsis outside of tank isn't true manual removal, that method still skips a work step and skipping work steps is what sustains an invasion. It will typically beat water treatments however, and it takes a back seat to the real method of manual removal (rasp method)
We can now attain a 100%, non variable bryopsis cure using the rasping method which was invented in the peroxide threads.
It is a known cure, all the time, because without holdfasts bryopsis will not thrive past simple export. Anyone feel like testing... make a test rock it takes all of ten minutes, anyone here just post up your worst bry.
the reason bryopsis regrows after external treatments is due to its anchoring characteristics. Cyano is opposite for example, or dinos.
When we do any action that kills or mows only top end plant mass, and some has safely infiltrated the surface area of rocks or substrate as holdfasts, that housed mass simply grows back. This is why 2000 level mag works most of the time but had variance. Its why grazers that are not parrotfish or hawksbill turtles have variance on bryopsis patches.
*1800-2000 runs routinely kill all the mass, but for the times we can see it didn't, holdfasts were at work and porosity/other variables changing among tanks.
The rasping method is the bunker buster for anchors and if a test rock yields regrowth, then rasping wasn't done correctly. It's a digging move, not brushing, brushes aren't metal. a parrotfish bites rock and poops sand...much meaner on an algae target vs how a nudi removes bryopsis. That's rasping vs manual removal.
By actually going as deep as needed with a metal tool to remove all physical mass, not any plant remains even if you don't use a chemical...so the test rock is forced back to zero plant mass in one setting.
any of the above chems are then used on the worked areas as bit cleanup.
(But I don't want to rasp, it will look bad)
See rasping threads, no it doesn't. The bryopsis is what looks bad, a cured tank spotted back over with coralline since plant dominance was stopped looks great. That's like saying we don't want a free car paint job since the primer stage will have a gray look. If we took care of the original paint job, a redo wouldn't be needed.
The method is more common in nano reefs for obvious work differences, but, large tanks can also use it too--simply act while the bryopsis is on a single rock, don't wait 18 mos in hesitation. Roughly 75% of bryopsis challenge tanks will do fine with water dosing only of magnesium. We like to deal with the outliers that cause people to just about start over.
Last edited:
Kungpaoshizi
Valuable Member
TechM didn't work for me either. Nobody even knows why it did/didn't work. I almost think it was a sham brought up so they could sell more.. lol.. I've heard a lot of rumors as to why it works, but nothing concrete and too many people saying it didn't work, all the while rumors about a formula change, and pre-change it worked..
I used peroxide myself, plenty of time scrubbing, etc.. I scrubbed every other day, for several weeks, but it always grew back.
But the major thing that cleared my tank of crappy algae, nopox. No joke.. Works wonderfully on hair algae, but it removed every trace of the bryopsis over time. It may have been couple with my manual efforts, but it finally went away when I got a doser and hourly dosed nopox in addition to scrubbing.(maybe hourly has something to do with it as well)
Good luck though!
I used peroxide myself, plenty of time scrubbing, etc.. I scrubbed every other day, for several weeks, but it always grew back.
But the major thing that cleared my tank of crappy algae, nopox. No joke.. Works wonderfully on hair algae, but it removed every trace of the bryopsis over time. It may have been couple with my manual efforts, but it finally went away when I got a doser and hourly dosed nopox in addition to scrubbing.(maybe hourly has something to do with it as well)
Good luck though!
