I have a bryopisis problem and I can't use peroxide.

[rock_lobster]

Large snails will eat it down to the root. The cats eye turbo, zebra turbo, mexican turbos. I usually do 1 per 10 gallons and there will be no algae anywhere in your tank.

 

[rock_lobster]

As far as im aware the magnesium trick no longer works the newest strains are either immune or else the active ingredient in the supplement is no longer present.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Thanks for the help. I will do as reeferFoxx said and during a water change I will do 5ml peroxide per 10 gallon just to be on the safeside.

Please keep in mind you'll have to be persistent. I worked on my tank for almost 2 weeks straight with maybe a day off once or twice in those two weeks. Eventually you notice a reduction in bryopsis however, it's not going to go away anytime soon. Use a container with fresh ro/di water to put the bryopsis in. That will also help wash any fillaments off your hands. Now, i pull small tufts out once a month. I'm really close to getting rid of it but it's an STD without a cure. You could possibly do the mag trick post 95% removal. I think at that point you will have better judgement as to what will work for you. Good luck!

 

[Steve Maxwell]

I've treated with Kent tech M for 2 weeks now at a level of 1800+ and it worked. I'm also in a fallow period so I'm going to go at least 1 week longer. I bought 2 lettuce nudibranches...on died right away and the other is munching away slowly (defiantly don't rely on just the method). I was also told to use needle nosed pliers and slowly pull on the algae to try to get the root out, but by the time I was told this it was all pretty much dead. A couple days ago I plucked the dead algae as best I could and I'm going to do a big water change tomorrow as well as starting a reactor with GFO and carbon...followed later with an algae scrubber. Good luck!

 

[Reeflogic]

I went through just about everything, including Tech M. This was roughly 4 months ago and I do believe (as stated above) the magic mystery additive in Kent Tech M is no longer there and it doesn't appear to work. I tried dosing peroxide, but was nervous about it, so I just took the rocks with bryopsis out and went pretty aggressive with direct peroxide and scrubbing with a toothbrush. I've been bryopsis free for 3 months or so... Good luck with it, that crap is from the devil.

 

[brandon429]

And nobody says the poster has to do all at once. A single test rock scrubbed clean, then hit with detritus after cleanup will reveal if the full effort is worth the time, it's what I'd do.

 

[reeferfoxx]

And nobody says the poster has to do all at once. A single test rock scrubbed clean, then hit with detritus after cleanup will reveal if the full effort is worth the time, it's what I'd do.

Pulling rocks out of my tank wasn't an acceptable procedure, for me. If I had the option to do so, I would have gone that route, in the beginning. Manual removal has worked for me. I have heard from others(emphasize heard from others) that this type of invasive algae can run it's course and eventually disappear. However I've yet to see it and no time frame was given.

 

[Reeflogic]

Never heard of it running it's course, interesting. I do know that it tends to grab hold of areas where detritus accumulates. Blowing the rocks clean with a powerhead is a good start, especially between zoas, which is where I was having the most issues. For my case, I didn't see it growing on clean coralline encrusted areas. Fortunately for me, I didn't have a ton of SPS to worry about, so it was "somewhat" easy to remove and treat. But I completely understand those with SPS dominated systems and not really having that option.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Never heard of it running it's course, interesting. I do know that it tends to grab hold of areas where detritus accumulates. Blowing the rocks clean with a powerhead is a good start, especially between zoas, which is where I was having the most issues. For my case, I didn't see it growing on clean coralline encrusted areas. Fortunately for me, I didn't have a ton of SPS to worry about, so it was "somewhat" easy to remove and treat. But I completely understand those with SPS dominated systems and not really having that option.

I have pictures of it growing on glass, magnet scraper, zoas, frag plug, sand bed, clove polyps and a snail lol Granted it was one little strand on the snail but it was there.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Oh and my heater, and powerhead were completely covered in bryopsis as well.

 

[Reeflogic]

Wow, I would have gone nuts lol. I would imagine it was due to the manual removal and spores or fragments floating around. All i know is I never want to see the stuff again, ever.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Once the tufts got long enough, or too long I should say, they would release from there spot and latch on to something else.

 

[CenlaReefer]

Tuxedo urchins and emerald crabs are my recommendation for dealing that problem.

 

[Reeflogic]

My tuxedo didn't touch it... hit or miss I guess..

 

[adestafi]

My emeralds don't touch it.. I'm using tech M and GFO and manually remove as much as possible. must be consistent with fighting it.

 

[Maritimer]

Fascinating...

My LFS told me that Brightwell's rep claimed his product contained the same "impurity" as Kent's Tech-M, and that it would be as effective against the weed . . . Wonder if that claim was made because he was out of Tech-M at the time?

I've been manually removing, Tech-M'ing (to 2400, using RedSea kits, and still have little green feathers...) and am now dosing No3Po4X in an effort to make conditions less favorable for algae in general. (Keep in mind that H2O2 is reported to be toxic to shrimp, of which I have many...) My tank is just barely over six months old, so I suppose some algae is to be expected, but I'd like to reduce it fairly drastically from where it is! Not getting a ton on the glass - clean it once a week or so, not getting a ton of coralline, but spots here and there.

CUC includes Astarea, "ninja-star" Astarea, Cerith, nerite, Trochus snails (and a few that were sold as "marbled Nassarius", but aren't - they don't burrow, but crawl the rock), emerald crabs, blue, scarlet and Phillipine hermit crabs, a Fromia star, two very ineffective sea cucumbers, two tuxedo urchins (those last help a lot, I think - at the very least, they pull up the algae clumps and carry them about until I remove them!) the above-mentioned shrimps, Stomatella, assorted 'pods, spaghetti worms . . . and probably others.

Two refugia with Chaetomorpha and Caulerpa . . .

A kole tang and a coral beauty angel . . .

Workin' on it . . . and I _think_ I'm making some headway?

~Bruce

 

[brandon429]

I'm officially not buying a magic ingredient at all since nobody names it, web hype. I realize it will continue elusive and guessed at for the next decade. Richard Ross just wrote an article of anecdote vs science, he means exactly this type of band wagoning. Good morning peeps lol.

Let the unnamed, unverified, untested ingredient remain the certain fix.

Magnesium is a central component in photosystems plants use for making sugars from light. Iron is the well known component of additional photosystems and many plants are using these simultaneously. Perhaps all of them are using dual photosystems all the time I'd have to search to see.

To spike mg in the tank and possibly back that system up to the demise of the plant is just as possible a mechanism guess. When we dose peroxide to the tank the exact bleaching mechanism manifests


I suppose the magic chemical is in both, by today's standards of analysis.


Name that ingredient. Bottle and sell it alone if it exists.

 

[Maritimer]

Peroxide might indeed be far more effective against Bryopsis than the "magic ingredient" in Tech-M - but wouldn't it also be effective against my cleaner, blood, peppermint and sexy shrimp?

Might not be the best option _for_me_.

~Bruce

 

[brandon429]

I would use it in a way to neutralize that concern, and beat the bryopsis in about a week. most of our treatments have those species. for the options created for this tank, sounds like tech m is the way to go. the only method posters want nowadays is whatever the least work is, so mostly its adding something to the water. tech m is best for those species.

I cant take my rocks out of the tank only means the bryopsis hasn't drove me crazy yet, and its worth leaving them in the tank and hoping something done to the water will work.


removing those species is also ok, QT, so that a handful of small inverts doesn't limit what a three thousand dollar system can utilize as recourse.

 

[brandon429]

I know its hard to work on large tanks, for nanos to simply rasp out + peroxide the surface outside the tank makes us spoiled but also immune to any invasions as well. You guys get all the fun fish

regardless of the mode chosen, this poster should consider making a model of his approach before attacking the whole tank through the water. if someone wants water only actions, dosings, a ten gallon nano and test rock will tell nicely if it works at a given dilution

the OP has provided neat details even with the limited pics that will be handy in planning a true fix vs a guess run

the clavularia rock isn't meant to be the sole gauge of the water dosing. those guys will close up reactive to peroxide, not come out, and make the keeper dose less to please them and that may or may not be enough to remove truly hardcore set in/anchored bryopsis the pics show. some cures have to have known losses for the type of work being considered, id be gauging my Kent or Peroxide additions on what they do to a non coral surface in the tank, and whatever happens to the clove polyps is incidental.

To agree to remove rocks is to win, am still waiting for my original question regarding why no pull

for any bryopsis challenge to be done right we have to prove what works first in my opinion. We expose non targets to our initial guess runs when we begin at a while tank level

that's why we need both a hand-scraped test rock + peroxide out of tank, and a test rock done as submersion tests with peroxide or Kent so we have a range to know which water PPM works for this invader. If the rasp works better, motivation to remove rocks changes quickly.

simply adding things to a tank is so 2009 heh. all bryopsis can be beaten for sure, we do it commonly but sometimes have to change the self imposed rules the keeper originally had in mind. depends on how serious they are.