JDowns Red Sea Reefer 525XL Ver. 2.0
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OP
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Just about done with the mag stirrer for the cart. I wanted to be able to easily mix 2-part without all the shake rattle and roll. I'll have to do a video this weekend. But this will easily create a vortex in a five gallon bucket through 1/4" acrylic/starboard with 1/8" space between the magnets and material.
Seriously considering building a bigger one to go under the 25 gallon Kalk container for mixing. Never have to use a stir stick or a pump ever again.
Seriously considering building a bigger one to go under the 25 gallon Kalk container for mixing. Never have to use a stir stick or a pump ever again.
OP
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Two of the three doors came in today. Hoping to get them installed this weekend. But at first glance the quality is fantastic. The edge seams on the corners are flawless and they are very solid and sturdy. I'm happy with the glass tint and I'm not. It's perfect for the screen side, but a bit too light for the sump side. I'm going to try some 25% or 35% tint and see how that looks as I want it a bit more subdued. Glad I didn't bother with anodizing just yet, as I can now see that I will want the inside of the front facing of the frames to be black and the rest to be white. Otherwise the doors are perfect. The bore hole size and placement is identical to the original doors, so it's a very simple swap out.
I'll get better photos this weekend when they get temporarily installed prior to tinting and painting.
I'll get better photos this weekend when they get temporarily installed prior to tinting and painting.
CDavmd
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Awesome good to see them. Just curious why did you not order them in black? Also do you they have a darker tint? I agree a bit darker would fit the theme better......are you going to tint them yourself?Two of the three doors came in today. Hoping to get them installed this weekend. But at first glance the quality is fantastic. The edge seams on the corners are flawless and they are very solid and sturdy. I'm happy with the glass tint and I'm not. It's perfect for the screen side, but a bit too light for the sump side. I'm going to try some 25% or 35% tint and see how that looks as I want it a bit more subdued. Glad I didn't bother with anodizing just yet, as I can now see that I will want the inside of the front facing of the frames to be black and the rest to be white. Otherwise the doors are perfect. The bore hole size and placement is identical to the original doors, so it's a very simple swap out.
I'll get better photos this weekend when they get temporarily installed prior to tinting and painting.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the doors too but will get them in black and hopefully darker tint.
Do you have a picture with the sump lights off? Curious how much is visible with lights off.
Congrat! Everything is coming along awesome!
OP
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I'll get some photo's this weekend for you with lights on and off. With the lights off, it may just be dark enough and I may forgo the nightlight idea, or just tint them darker.
I got them in plain aluminum so I could anodize them in white to match the rest of the stand. If I would have known I wanted the inside black and if I could do it over I would have gone with black then just painted the outside edging white to match....oh well live and learn.
The parsol graphite was the darkest they had that wasn't bronze or brown in color. I didn't think it was going to be this light, but figured I could always just tint the glass. I'll get some tint samples this week. Tinting is pretty simple, but I'm sure you could ask them to tint them for you also or just have a local shop do it. You can also just buy the frames and have the glass made locally.
CDavmd
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Thanks! Forgot your cabinet is white lol...mine is black so I have black on the mind! Appreciate your help- looking forward to seeing you complete this build! Epic!
OP
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If I get time in the morning I'll try and get a photo with lights on and off for you sooner rather than later since I know you are waiting to pull the trigger. Won't take much to temporarily mount the doors on the sump side. Nice thing about the bore offsets being equal for the top and bottom, all the doors are either right or left.
OP
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Here are some additional photos
Outer edges with edge reveal. These frames are 1.5mm thicker than the standard doors.
The pre-drilled hinge holes are not for the stock hinges. Place the hinge in the hole boring and with a nail lightly tap a pre-drill point. Then with a 1/16" bit slowly drill a new hole. Buy extra bits as these break really easily even if you go slowly. I used saber drives as they hold in aluminum really well. Just drill them in slowly as to not bind and strip the aluminum.
Lights on and off. I held up some smoked acrylic behind the glass and even that was too light for my tastes. I think I'm going to end up with 5% or 10% limo tint.
The blue along the bottom is going to have to get swapped out with the extra white trim that came with the cabinet when this gets disassembled and moved. Its just too much competing colors going on down there.
Outer edges with edge reveal. These frames are 1.5mm thicker than the standard doors.
The pre-drilled hinge holes are not for the stock hinges. Place the hinge in the hole boring and with a nail lightly tap a pre-drill point. Then with a 1/16" bit slowly drill a new hole. Buy extra bits as these break really easily even if you go slowly. I used saber drives as they hold in aluminum really well. Just drill them in slowly as to not bind and strip the aluminum.
Lights on and off. I held up some smoked acrylic behind the glass and even that was too light for my tastes. I think I'm going to end up with 5% or 10% limo tint.
The blue along the bottom is going to have to get swapped out with the extra white trim that came with the cabinet when this gets disassembled and moved. Its just too much competing colors going on down there.
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OP
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Sabers are great screws. If you have never drilled into aluminum I would recommend buying a 1 foot stock piece of aluminum hollow square and practice. Cheaper then a new door or trying to repair the hole.
dantimdad
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First time I used them was on aluminum angle. Pulled the threads right out from over torquing.
OP
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If I were to factor in time and materials and to do these out of wood and glass....these doors are a steal. If I didn't have the tools on hand....then they really are a steal.
I haven't weighed them against the stock doors. But I think they are a bit lighter, but not by much due to the glass.
CDavmd
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Thanks for the update and pictures! That helps a lot. I agree a bit more tint would be ideal. Regarding the thickness....any chance you could shoot a top down picture. Seems a bit more than 1.5mm....is it a noticeable- jut out or just subtle. Thanks again!
OP
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I put a micrometer on the doors. The Red Sea doors are 20mm and the Corleone frames are 21.20mm.
Gap from door to stand.
Top down view.
I have the tank so its equal overhang on the front and back sides. Even on my other tank the doors stick out further than the tank like this.
The doors stick out 10.60mm from the glass edge.
Gap from door to stand.
Top down view.
I have the tank so its equal overhang on the front and back sides. Even on my other tank the doors stick out further than the tank like this.
The doors stick out 10.60mm from the glass edge.
CDavmd
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I put a micrometer on the doors. The Red Sea doors are 20mm and the Corleone frames are 21.20mm.
Gap from door to stand.
Top down view.
I have the tank so its equal overhang on the front and back sides. Even on my other tank the doors stick out further than the tank like this.
The doors stick out 10.60mm from the glass edge.
Thanks! Thats helpful. I have my tank flush on the back and overhanging the front such that the reefer doors are flush with the front glass. I guess in my case the doors would stick out less than the 10.6. Giving it all some thought- Thanks again!
