Let’s not start an argument please! Best temp control?

[I’ma tempermental coral]

So I’m in the market for a couple of temp controllers to take the switching load off of my eb832. One for my established mix reef and another for my current dedicated sps build. I’d like it to be able to control both my heater and chiller opening a slot on my powerbar while also maintaining the tolerances of the apex system or better. I just came across this thread as it was active today so check it out as well! https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bayite-temperature-controller.736914/
So if you are using a temp controller and you love it and it’s been reliable let us know!

 

[TheHarold]

In summary:

Any heater controller- regardless of the brand, can and eventually WILL fail. The only way to prevent a disaster is to have redundant controllers, such as using your apex to shut off the primary controller if the temperature ever gets above a certain level. Very basic code to use the outlet like that; "Set on" & "If Tmp > 80 then off".

High quality titanium heating elements are the best to use. No glass ones that can shatter and poison/electrocute the tank. BulkReefSupply has a great line of heating elements that is made by Shego in Germany.

After keeping that in mind, there are many heater controllers you can use. Finnex makes one, InkBird makes several models- some with dual temperature probes and/or wifi, or BulkReefSupply has their version of the InkBird.

You can also use a heater that has a built in thermostat- I use a Neotherm on my reefer 350, which is plugged into an apex for an emergency cutoff.

InkBird Wifi controller, with dual probes for redundancy:

InkBird version for heating AND cooling:

 

[RandyC]

I am a fan of the dual stage Ranco controller that will control two devices (heater/chiller/fan). Does require a little bit of DIY wiring and on the pricier side, but they are built like tanks. I have had 1 running for the last 5 years and others that have 1-3 years on them; all without issue. Probe needs to be shrink wrapped, plasti-dipped or placed in a plastic tube sealed with epoxy or silicon as they are not waterproof.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-E...QRuJXFJ1EcwcSE98g4V2sg6ePZxdawdxoCLJEQAvD_BwE

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

In summary:

Any heater controller- regardless of the brand, can and eventually WILL fail. The only way to prevent a disaster is to have redundant controllers, such as using your apex to shut off the primary controller if the temperature ever gets above a certain level. Very basic code to use the outlet like that; "Set on" & "If Tmp > 80 then off".

High quality titanium heating elements are the best to use. No glass ones that can shatter and poison/electrocute the tank. BulkReefSupply has a great line of heating elements that is made by Shego in Germany.

After keeping that in mind, there are many heater controllers you can use. Finnex makes one, InkBird makes several models- some with dual temperature probes and/or wifi, or BulkReefSupply has their version of the InkBird.

InkBird Wifi controller, with dual probes for redundancy:

InkBird version for heating AND cooling:

I have the titanium brs core and it was bought with their version of the inkbird. I have two that I’ll be sending back to brs for them to take a look at as neither couldn’t hold a calibration for more than a couple hours. I know they are consumables hence why I want to take that consumption off of my apex eb832. I originally had the brs/inkbird programmed as you described and my apex couldn't tell heads from tails on what the controller was doing. Constantly shutting it down and such. So I’m in the market for one that can hold its calibration and take the load off the switches in my eb8

 

[Luckyduck]

As far as heaters go I've used several brands over the years and settled on the Cobalt Neotherm. As TheHarold said no glass. I have been watching my Neotherm on my Seneye Reef Monitor and I'm very impressed at how consistent it keeps the temperature. You definitely get temperature swings but within a half of a degree. BRS did a study/test on heaters and they really liked the Neotherm and Ehiem but Eheim is glass I believe.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

I am a fan of the dual stage Ranco controller that will control two devices (heater/chiller/fan). Does require a little bit of DIY wiring and on the pricier side, but they are built like tanks. I have had 1 running for the last 5 years and others that have 1-3 years on them; all without issue. Probe needs to be shrink wrapped, plasti-dipped or placed in a plastic tube sealed with epoxy or silicon as they are not waterproof.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-E...QRuJXFJ1EcwcSE98g4V2sg6ePZxdawdxoCLJEQAvD_BwE

Thank for your input! Is there any way I can get you to reveal your secrets as far as the wiring goes?

Being able to control both heater and chiller on one plug of the eb8 is also a goal!

 

[TheHarold]

I have the titanium brs core and it was bought with their version of the inkbird. I have two that I’ll be sending back to brs for them to take a look at as neither couldn’t hold a calibration for more than a couple hours. I know they are consumables hence why I want to take that consumption off of my apex eb832. I originally had the brs/inkbird programmed as you described and my apex couldn't tell heads from tails on what the controller was doing. Constantly shutting it down and such. So I’m in the market for one that can hold its calibration and take the load off the switches in my eb8

Yeah, I didnt have good luck with the BRS one either when helping someone else set up their tank. Too much temperature variation compared to other systems I have used. It has like 2/5 stars on their site.

Thats why I recommended the original inkbird; look at the reviews on amazon. It just works.

If programmed properly, the EB8 should just turn off the outlet when the temperature has spiked above a set point, which should never happen with a functional temperature controller that is set a few degrees lower than the EB8 cutoff temperature.

 

[RandyC]

Thank for your input! Is there any way I can get you to reveal your secrets as far as the wiring goes?

Being able to control both heater and chiller on one plug of the eb8 is also a goal!

Here’s a video on how to wire a single stage ranco.

Doing the dual stage isn’t that much more difficult, but you will need to be able to decipher this diagram. You’ll just need an extra plug and I find that using jumper wires and wire nuts much easier to work with that trying to get all three wires in the wire screw terminal.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Yeah, I didnt have good luck with the BRS one either when helping someone else set up their tank. Too much temperature variation compared to other systems I have used. It has like 2/5 stars on their site.

Thats why I recommended the original inkbird; look at the reviews on amazon. It just works.

If programmed properly, the EB8 should just turn off the outlet when the temperature has spiked above a set point, which should never happen with a functional temperature controller that is set a few degrees lower than the EB8 cutoff temperature.

Even with a wide range set in fusion for the brs heater controller to work inside of the apex still had to pick up the slack. I felt like the entire point of having the heater controller was to minimize consumption of the eb8’s switches and that wasn’t happening with the brs heater controller unfortunately. Being that at its core it is an inkbird I really don’t want to use one of those. Kinda pushed me away from them. You know?

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Here’s a video on how to wire a single stage ranco.

Doing the dual stage isn’t that much more difficult, but you will need to be able to decipher this diagram. You’ll just need an extra plug and I find that using jumper wires and wire nuts much easier to work with that trying to get all three wires in the wire screw terminal.

Thank you!!! I have no idea what I’m looking at....;Shy But! As luck would have it my husband builds race cars for a live and while wiring is his least favorite part, he is still really good at it! Hahaha so that shouldn’t be to hard for him to figure out. But as this thread goes, right now it’s looking like the ranco is the best option so far!

 

[fishguy242]

hi ,do not use or never tried apex,3 decades in the reef,old school,have always used ranco's ,always accurate and faithful

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Yet another staunch vote for the ranco! Thank you @fishguy242!

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

@fishguy242 long time reefers here as well! 15 years for me, started as trying to show interest in my boyfriends hobbies(now husband of almost 14 years lol) and for utterly hooked! Hubby has been in it for 20 himself. We’ve always been very old school! Halides, hand testing and dosing, replacing standard heaters annually etc. I gotta say this is our first time truly diving into the “gear” side of things and it’s made us both a little too “helicoptery” hahaha. That said with our kids getting older and more involved in things like dance (never let your child dance!!!! Believe me when I say you will spend more on that than you could ever dream to spend on a reef! It’s insane!!!) we spend more and more time away from home and the comfort and remote controllability granted with something like a full apex is weight lifted off our shoulders when we are away.

 

[fishguy242]

couple of years ago spent 1600 on apex system to monitor 3 separate tanks buddy came over to help set up,after 2 hours of computer and phone"lessons"sold it to him for 1000$ ,need my sanity..lol..ps..i still run t 12 icecap vho's ,

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Hubby tunes cars so the programming side wasn’t hard for him to pick up. Myself on the other hand.... it’s all Greek to me! Hahaha. I know what the switches he set up do and what the numbers are lol. And if he’s not here I always tend to fall back on hand testing lol. The dedicated sps build we are in the middle of putting together would honestly be t12vho or our personal preference Halides! Problem is, living in Southern California means the AC would never turn off and we like having the windows open instead. We’ve been giving the whole LED thing an honest shake but nothing beats the stability of a 400w radium! Lol. So the new tank will probably be defused xr30 gen5s with t5 supplementation.

Now that I have completed stolen my own thread hahaha. Back at it! It’s still the ranco in the lead! Lol

 

[bmbrad]

I've been happy with my BRS heating titanium heating element and inkbird controller.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

I've been happy with my BRS heating titanium heating element and inkbird controller.

I’ve seen a few people here and there that had luck with the brs/inkbird controllers, or are you using an actual inkbird? Not the brs/inkbird that comes with their titanium heater core? I’ve been very happy with the titanium core from them, although I believe we over sized a bit, it has worked flawlessly using our apex as it’s controller. I’ve been through 2 brs/inkbirds and neither could hold calibration for anything over a few hours before going nutso.

 

[bmbrad]

I’ve seen a few people here and there that had luck with the brs/inkbird controllers, or are you using an actual inkbird? Not the brs/inkbird that comes with their titanium heater core? I’ve been very happy with the titanium core from them, although I believe we over sized a bit, it has worked flawlessly using our apex as it’s controller. I’ve been through 2 brs/inkbirds and neither could hold calibration for anything over a few hours before going nutso.

I've been using the actual inkbird controller not the BRS one. Haven't had any issues.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Inkbird has been good to me

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

I've been using the actual inkbird controller not the BRS one. Haven't had any issues.

Inkbird has been good to me

Good to know!!! Thanks guys!!! Are either of you using the inkbird heater/chiller controller?