Let’s not start an argument please! Best temp control?

[shred5]

I run an ink bird with 2 aqueon presets.

BRS preaches about heater failure, why would I spend more than 10 bucks on a heater im just gonna throw out every year?

You have to realise they are a retailer first and their videos are meant to move product.

I use controllers so I do not use the thermostat on the heater except back up. I bet I have not had a heater fail in 10 years. I probably jinxed myself.

 

[Rjmul]

You have to realise they are a retailer first and their videos are meant to move product.

I understand. I take some things they say with a grain of salt. But regardless of their motives, I've still read horror stories. So I buy literally the cheapest heaters possible. And just toss them whenever I start to get nervous. That way I have peace of mind. Plus I have the built in thermostat and also the ink bird backing it up.

 

[DucatiGtr]

I’m planning on the ink bird controller.. these are pretty fool proof I imagine? I’ve had very type of heater go and destroy tow tanks and one just recently shut off killed a lot of my coral holding tank..
I’m luckier on my 700g system as temps are slow going.. 100 and under you don’t have too much time

 

[zalick]

You have to realise they are a retailer first and their videos are meant to move product.

I use controllers so I do not use the thermostat on the heater except back up. I bet I have not had a heater fail in 10 years. I probably jinxed myself.

I've had the exact opposite experience recently. I don't think I had a heater fail for the first 15 years of reefing. In the last 5 years I've had all but two Eheim Jager heaters fail ( 6 of 8) and a Hydor Theo fail. The Jagers failed off thankfully. They all had water intrusion too. The Hydor failed ON. Bad news.

I replaced everything with finnex titanium TH with no built-in thermostat and they've run strong for two years now.

For the OP - what did you end up getting? I think titanium heater controlled by ranco with Apex as the failsafe is the best.

 

[zalick]

I’m planning on the ink bird controller.. these are pretty fool proof I imagine? I’ve had very type of heater go and destroy tow tanks and one just recently shut off killed a lot of my coral holding tank..
I’m luckier on my 700g system as temps are slow going.. 100 and under you don’t have too much time

I know lots of people love inkbird but I'm going to give a slightly different take.

I've been using inkbird for years outside of the aquarium setting. BBQ, freezers, beer and wine making.

Inkbird is pretty cheaply made chinese product. Their reps will often give you 50% off codes because their goal is to saturate the market. (Ask them on Facebook) They really aren't built to last IMO. You'll see TONS of posts here about people with inkbirds losing calibration rapidly and also failing. I've experienced the same with my non-aquarium inkbird products. In my other uses they are fine because it's not super critical and they are dirt cheap at 50% off. I personally would not use them for my reef. I actually stopped using them for my BBQ too when one failed mid cook and I kinda ruined an $80 brisket!

 

[shred5]

I've had the exact opposite experience recently. I don't think I had a heater fail for the first 15 years of reefing. In the last 5 years I've had all but two Eheim Jager heaters fail ( 6 of 8) and a Hydor Theo fail. The Jagers failed off thankfully. They all had water intrusion too. The Hydor failed ON. Bad news.

I replaced everything with finnex titanium TH with no built-in thermostat and they've run strong for two years now.

For the OP - what did you end up getting? I think titanium heater controlled by ranco with Apex as the failsafe is the best.

Are you using a controller? If you do their is really no reason for a heater to fail in most cases it is the thermostat that fails. I am guessing you do not since you said bad new for the Hydor sticking on. A controller would stop that from happening.

 

[shred5]

I know lots of people love inkbird but I'm going to give a slightly different take.

I've been using inkbird for years outside of the aquarium setting. BBQ, freezers, beer and wine making.

Inkbird is pretty cheaply made chinese product. Their reps will often give you 50% off codes because their goal is to saturate the market. (Ask them on Facebook) They really aren't built to last IMO. You'll see TONS of posts here about people with inkbirds losing calibration rapidly and also failing. I've experienced the same with my non-aquarium inkbird products. In my other uses they are fine because it's not super critical and they are dirt cheap at 50% off. I personally would not use them for my reef. I actually stopped using them for my BBQ too when one failed mid cook and I kinda ruined an $80 brisket!

Agreed on Ink bird also those Finnex controllers are garbage too. They do not even read close to what they should.
The Ink Bird is what BRS uses for their controller. The Finnex do work but they are just way off on the temperature so you have to adjust. I have a few as back up and I have to set them at 80 degrees to get 78.

I think Finnex have a new ones that has calibration.

 

[zalick]

Are you using a controller? If you do their is really no reason for a heater to fail in most cases it is the thermostat that fails. I am guessing you do not since you said bad new for the Hydor sticking on. A controller would stop that from happening.

Yup, I use an apex. The Hydor was a backup for emergency QT. I took it out the other day and tested it (not on apex) and it was stuck on. My Jagers all eventually had moisture inside. Just tossed my last one this last weekend. Was using it for salt mixing.

 

[shred5]

Yup, I use an apex. The Hydor was a backup for emergency QT. I took it out the other day and tested it (not on apex) and it was stuck on. My Jagers all eventually had moisture inside. Just tossed my last one this last weekend. Was using it for salt mixing.

Jagers to me should not be completely submersed. I have seen that happen to them before. I do not buy glass ones, I think I only own one because it was a sale.

I think I run 15 plus heaters right now.

 

[KStatefan]

I'm late to this thread...and probably asking a dumb question. But here it goes. I'm debating buying the single stage vs. the two stage Ranco controller. I have two Cobalt heaters in my sump working in tandem - both with their own on-board thermostats. I want to replace them with titanium heaters (having issues with voltage leak with the Cobalts).

If I go the route of the single stage Ranco and put both heaters on a single GFCI spliter it will in essence control both heaters in the same way. One would still function if the other fails.

If I setup the two stage as shown above what is the benefit? Suggestions? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

In a aquarium usage I am not sure there is an advantage of using dual stage heat. Load is fairly constant year round compared to something that has a greater temperature differential through out the season.
With the dual stage heat you can have a second heat set to come on at a lower temp.

 

[zalick]

Jagers to me should not be completely submersed. I have seen that happen to them before. I do not buy glass ones, I think I only own one because it was a sale.

I think I run 15 plus heaters right now.

Agreed. Mine weren't even completely submerged. The top cap was maybe an inch above the water, so I'm guessing evaporation still worked it's way in. The 300w jager are so long it's nearly impossible to run without submerging. I had to angle mine across the sump.

 

[Xothar]

Thanks all for the advice. So I purchased the single phase and two 300W BRS Titanium heaters. Should be a good replacement for the Cobalt Neotherms.

FWIW - Cobalt has been less than helpful with their customer service. Both heaters are less than a year old. Both are/were leaking considerable voltage into the tank. And they barely wanted to take them back. After sending them back it too two months to even get a response out of them. I'm still not sure if they are going to repair, replace, or just ignore me...

 

[DucatiGtr]

Dumb question.. can’t they make a heater that can’t go above 78/80 then has an alarm if it gets under 74 or so? Even when using the InkBirds they should have heaters that can’t go above 80 so at least you don’t cook the tank.

 

[laverda]

I'm late to this thread...and probably asking a dumb question. But here it goes. I'm debating buying the single stage vs. the two stage Ranco controller. I have two Cobalt heaters in my sump working in tandem - both with their own on-board thermostats. I want to replace them with titanium heaters (having issues with voltage leak with the Cobalts).

If I go the route of the single stage Ranco and put both heaters on a single GFCI spliter it will in essence control both heaters in the same way. One would still function if the other fails.

If I setup the two stage as shown above what is the benefit? Suggestions? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

While rancho controllers are super reliable I would put just one heater on it. Use a cheap ink bird or something for the second heater set 1/2 - 1 degree lower. This way you should avoid short cycling and have good redundancy.

 

[shred5]

Agreed. Mine weren't even completely submerged. The top cap was maybe an inch above the water, so I'm guessing evaporation still worked it's way in. The 300w jager are so long it's nearly impossible to run without submerging. I had to angle mine across the sump.

Yea they are long.

To everyone.

One thing I want to say is I also I run a controller on top of a controller. Almost all my tanks either have a Apex or a Hydros controller on them. In addition to that I run another controller like Ranco, Finnex etc.

Why do I do this? The plug strips that come with controllers like Apex and Hydros are not made to be switched on and off as much as a heater does and they can wear out. The outlets on these are usually controlled by a relays. Not only that it adds another layer of protection.

 

[DucatiGtr]

Yea they are long.

To everyone.

One thing I want to say is I also I run a controller on top of a controller. Almost all my tanks either have a Apex or a Hydros controller on them. In addition to that I run another controller like Ranco, Finnex etc.

Why do I do this? The plug strips that come with controllers like Apex and Hydros are not made to be switched on and off as much as a heater does and they can wear out. The outlets on these are usually controlled by a relays. Not only that it adds another layer of protection.

Hmm to think that this day and age they don’t make fool proof ones.. it’s very aggravating considering the amount we spend..
If I do end up using an InkBird should these be replaced every 2 years or so? I theory we should be notified by the device

 

[laverda]

By a Rancho and don't worry about it. The arecnot much more and last much longer, saving money in the long run.