Let’s not start an argument please! Best temp control?

[robbyg]

If you want a Ranco controller that is pre wired for a heater and and chiller the I suggest the Aqualogic dual stage model. It’s not cheap but you did say price is not an issue. It’s a beast and will last a long time.

Titanium temp probe and the unit is water resistant.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

If you want a Ranco controller that is pre wired for a heater and and chiller the I suggest the Aqualogic dual stage model. It’s not cheap but you did say price is not an issue. It’s a beast and will last a long time.

With the attachment we carry to our fish and coral, money spent not withstanding, I prefer reliability! Especially when it comes to controlling something that can cook my slimy and stony babies!

 

[robbyg]

With the attachment we carry to our fish and coral, money spent not withstanding, I prefer reliability! Especially when it comes to controlling something that can cook my slimy and stony babies!

Well then you just found the most reliable unit on the market.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Well then you just found the most reliable unit on the market.

So at its core this is a prewired and rebadged ranco correct?

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Quick reading in the aqualogic shows it only has a 1 degree differential. Meaning heater turns on say at 77 and off at 78, while the chiller would kick on at 79 and off at 78. Giving me a 2 degree window. That’s much larger than I’d like to see personally. I realize for most that’s not much of an issue so let me explain why I see it as problematic for us. We live way up in the mountains of Southern California. As such during the day in summer we can see temperatures of around 90 with the off chance of the odd 100 degree day(of course on those days the windows are closed and ac turned on) then as the sun sets that 90-100 degree day transitions to a 70 or even 60 degree night. At which point we open the house. So during summer here it isn’t just our chiller that’s getting a workout. We would see that 2 degree swing daily all summer long. See what I’m getting at here?

 

[Biglew11]

If you want a Ranco controller that is pre wired for a heater and and chiller the I suggest the Aqualogic dual stage model. It’s not cheap but you did say price is not an issue. It’s a beast and will last a long time.

Titanium temp probe and the unit is water resistant.

ive been using this same controller for about 10 years now, no issues yet, i use the second stage on mine to control fans,
i guess it's a rebranded ranco. as robbyg posted no rewiring necessary.
here's a link to marine depote https://www.marinedepot.com/aqua-logic-digital-temperature-controller-dual-stage

edit apex code for use with chiller should look like this if you want to plug this into the apex as a failsafe.

default on
set on
if temp <insert lowest desired temp then off
if temp >insert highest desired temp then off

this will force the outlet to stay on and shut it off if temp falls outside normal ranges.

 

[mrpizzaface]

I don’t understand why people would choose too use a temperature controller other than a Ranco.

 

[CK00020]

Do you need a two stage for 2 heaters, or just if you have a chiller

 

[Biglew11]

Do you need a two stage for 2 heaters, or just if you have a chiller

Two stage is only needed if you want heater and chiller. First stage heats, second stage cools.

 

[jmcdona6]

Actual inkbird for me as well. Does the job and is fairly priced, well...fair for the reefing world. I'm sure it will fail just like everything else but that's why you have redundancy. Plus, i'd rather have a <$100 item fail than a $300 Apex module...

 

[jmcdona6]

Buy two heaters, each half of what you need total. If one fails you still have one to keep the tank from completely crashing one way or the other.

Plug those into an inkbird. Further protection from cooking your tank and control. If you get the non-wifi version it is really cheap. I have the wifi version but if you already have an Apex it's kinda useless and redundant...I also constantly have connection issues. Not worth it in my opinion.

Dual Digital Heater Controller (ITC-306T) - Inkbird - $35

Then plug the inkbird into the below or similar solution. Set higher than the other components so it is a catastrophic shut-off.

Smart Temp Security - AutoAqua - $60

So for less than $100 you now have 3 layers of protection for overheating.

 

[BZOFIQ]

The only thing better then Ranco is.... Aqualogic

It's a Ranco controller but they go a step further by encapsulating the probe in a piece of Titanium tube filled with epoxy.

 

[TheHarold]

Quick reading in the aqualogic shows it only has a 1 degree differential. Meaning heater turns on say at 77 and off at 78, while the chiller would kick on at 79 and off at 78. Giving me a 2 degree window. That’s much larger than I’d like to see personally. I realize for most that’s not much of an issue so let me explain why I see it as problematic for us. We live way up in the mountains of Southern California. As such during the day in summer we can see temperatures of around 90 with the off chance of the odd 100 degree day(of course on those days the windows are closed and ac turned on) then as the sun sets that 90-100 degree day transitions to a 70 or even 60 degree night. At which point we open the house. So during summer here it isn’t just our chiller that’s getting a workout. We would see that 2 degree swing daily all summer long. See what I’m getting at here?

Differential exists for a reason. If you activate the chiller compressor every few minutes, you will destroy it in a month. Same concept goes for the relays controlling a heater (although they will still last a long time).

An overall daily swing from 77 to 79 is 100% fine.

 

[RandyC]

Two stage is only needed if you want heater and chiller. First stage heats, second stage cools.

You can also use it for two heaters for two scenarios

1. if you want run two lower wattage heaters
2. to have a second heater as a backup should the primary one fail.

 

[BZOFIQ]

So at its core this is a prewired and rebadged ranco correct?

Yes, with an encapsulated probe.

 

[Biglew11]

You can also use it for two heaters for two scenarios

1. if you want run two lower wattage heaters
2. to have a second heater as a backup should the primary one fail.

The second stage turns on when the temperature gets above the set point. If you plug a heater into that stage it will turn on when the temperature gets high not low. They do have single stage controllers with two heater outlets.
Edit or is there a setting to change how the second stage turns on?

 

[KStatefan]

The second stage turns on when the temperature gets above the set point. If you plug a heater into that stage it will turn on when the temperature gets high not low. They do have single stage controllers with two heater outlets.
Edit or is there a setting to change how the second stage turns on?

The two stage unit can be set up 3 different ways

1. Two Stage Heating
2. Two Stage Cooling
3 One Stage Heating and One Stage Cooling

 

[ChrisNH]

I used an st-1000 for my brewing and it was great. I used it to control fermentation temperatures.

I got the brs temp controller for my tank and it is rubbish. It doesn’t check the temp very often, looks like once every 30 min, maybe more. As a result it can experience big swings with Smaller water volumes or cases where ambient differs from tank temp by a significant amount.

fortunately My reef pi can turn it off if it over shoots, really there is no substitute for a temp controller monitored by something else. I already bought A new co troller to replace it with in winter when ambient is much lower than tank.

 

[DSEKULA]

I have an inkbird on my apex eb. The apex is programed to have the socket turn off in my specific heat range for example 77-80 the socket defaults to on in any other situation and let's the inkbird take over. When setting up I wasn't sure if I'd need a chiller I don't but this way adding one would be easy enough. I run two half size heaters in this configuration with a degree difference either way (lead/lag) ones 77-79 the other 78-80 (you can use the numbers your comfortable with etc. for critical failure I have one full size heater hooked directly to the eb with the socket set to come on at 73 off at 76... Anyway, obviously I go the redundancy route lol all my heaters are finnex titanium with no built in controller.

 

[Biglew11]

I got it I change number 4 or 7 based on weather i want a heater or chiller plugged into that channel.