Doesn't show in pics. But my yellow tang has this white stuff on him. Water is perfect and Temps have not changed more than 1 degree. I added new fish a few weeks ago from QT. They are fine. The tang is acting normal and eating well. What do I do?
Marine velvet or ich. I don't know
- Thread starter cane
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Does the white look like a fine dusting or like small grains of salt? How long has the fish looked liked this?
Google images of tangs with marine ich and compare appearance to what you're seeing.
Google images of tangs with marine ich and compare appearance to what you're seeing.
Since you have a QT you should anticipate using it within the next 24 hours. Please review the link below.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-diseases-101.189284/
Remember treating the Angel with copper is not advised, so you're looking at Chloroquine phosphate.
Good luck, I am sure member Humblefish will be by to offer his expertise.
With Velvet you have to intervene quickly.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-diseases-101.189284/
Remember treating the Angel with copper is not advised, so you're looking at Chloroquine phosphate.
Good luck, I am sure member Humblefish will be by to offer his expertise.
With Velvet you have to intervene quickly.
kschweer
Moderator
Sorry for your troubles. I would get your at ready. Unfortunately if it is velvet chances are you will know soon, it moves very fast once symptoms show. Take a look through the disease identification and treatment forum and read some of the articles @Humblefish has there. Hopefully he will chime in here when he see it. Best of luck.
The white dots in the second pic of the YT look large enough to be ich to me. But it could also easily be velvet. Can you count the number of white dots, or would you say there are too many on the fish to count?
Honestly, by the time you get your hands on quality CP it's gonna be too late. Your best bet is to search LFS for Cupramine, or Coppersafe or Copper Power.
Also, look for any of the following products so I can walk you through how to give the fish a FW dip and chemical bath before you put them in the copper QT:
- Quick Cure
- Aquarium Solutions Ich-X
- Kordon Rid-Ich Plus
- Ruby Reef Rally
- Setup your QT. Make sure temp & SG matches the DT.
- Transfer every fish one by one from DT to QT.
- Give every fish a FW dip, one at a time (I will provide instructions in the next post.) Also, look for flukes after each FW dip (see below).
- Immediately following the FW dip, place each fish (again, one at a time) in a saltwater bath solution using Rally. The dosage is 1 teaspoon per gallon - try to use at least 2-3 gallons for the bath. More is better, like say 5 gallons. Aerate the water vigorously for 30 mins before & while the fish is in there, and leave the fish in the bath for 1 hr - 1 hr 15 mins. Pull early at the first sign of distress. You will also need to use a heater during the bath to keep temp stable.
- After the bath, put the fish in the QT. After every fish is finally in QT, follow the dosage instructions on the Copper Power bottle. You are also going to need an API copper test kit to measure it. But you don't need that immediately.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
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You need to treat all of them. Get a bigger qt or do 90% water changes as often as necessary. And angels do fine in cupramine I have taken dozens through without issue.
Halichoeres wrasses are a different story...
