MP40 QD Sound

[RichtheReefer21]

The guy I bought the pump from has a dead MP40QD dry side. He’s gonna give it to me

Hopefully the bearing is good.

Sweet!

 

[Crabs McJones]

The guy I bought the pump from has a dead MP40QD dry side. He’s gonna give it to me

Hopefully the bearing is good.

Worse case senario, use parts from both and make one good one GOOD LUCK KEEP US UPDATED!

 

[ca1ore]

What setting did you have the pump on? I've never seen that 'blinking' on my controller (like in the video on post #2) ... odd. Also, pump shows low on the controller but the motor sounds like its running high ..... also odd. The inside of the wetside looks pristine, I'm doubting that bearings is the problem. I have five 2015 vintage MP40QD (and MP10 and MP60) and none of them are anywhere close to needing a dryside rebuild. Make sure you use the proper spacer; that's a sure fire way to ******** up the pump.

FWIW, when ETM introduced the QD driver, it was possible to retrofit it to any of the ES drysides; however, they did also redesign the MP40 dryside at the same time to make it more like the MP40 and MP10. The older MP40 dryside had an adjustable grommet as spacer rather than independent discs.

 

[TheEngineer]

It was on the blue setting. It did happen to have the right spacer, just didn’t know it

 

[Crabs McJones]

What setting did you have the pump on? I've never seen that 'blinking' on my controller (like in the video on post #2) ... odd. Also, pump shows low on the controller but the motor sounds like its running high ..... also odd. The inside of the wetside looks pristine, I'm doubting that bearings is the problem. I have five 2015 vintage MP40QD (and MP10 and MP60) and none of them are anywhere close to needing a dryside rebuild. Make sure you use the proper spacer; that's a sure fire way to ******** up the pump.

FWIW, when ETM introduced the QD driver, it was possible to retrofit it to any of the ES drysides; however, they did also redesign the MP40 dryside at the same time to make it more like the MP40 and MP10. The older MP40 dryside had an adjustable grommet as spacer rather than independent discs.

Short pulse locked mode. Basically you choose your pulse and your pulse interval, then hold the set button until the knob starts flashing. That makes it so the controller is locked into that setting. Turning the knob after that does nothing.

 

[ca1ore]

Ok, that makes sense. It's been years since I had to wrestle with those cludgy buttons on the controllers .... WXM to the rescue. Still seems odd to me that motor is not audibly ramping though. I've had a few of my vortech get locked into 100% and not respond to either the knob or the WXM - almost sounds like that was the case here.

 

[TheEngineer]

Well no surprise here... EcoTech said "no." The dry sides are "not designed to be serviced."

I should have the other dry side in a couple days so I can put this back together. It is really silly that this isn't a part they'd be willing to sell. It's already out of warranty.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Well no surprise here... EcoTech said "no." The dry sides are "not designed to be serviced."
..........

Not surprised....but their excuse "not designed to be serviced," is bunk. The wet side is designed to be serviced, but they won't sell you the magnet only. I know first hand (unless they've changed their minds within the last 2 or 3 years.)

 

[TheEngineer]

Yeah, I think it's bogus too. They'd just rather sell you a more expensive assembly than have to deal with the parts, I suppose.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Yeah, I think it's bogus too. They'd just rather sell you a more expensive assembly than have to deal with the parts, I suppose.

Unfortunately it's a "you need it and we have it" but that's why awesome people like @redfishbluefish give us workarounds

 

[TheEngineer]

Oh, I haven't given up! I just need to figure out a way to safely get the bearings off this shaft. There is actually a retaining collar and a washer under one of them, which is pretty strange. That's the one I was trying to get off, so no wonder I was having trouble.

For future reference to anyone reading this. The bearing is actually a 608ZZ despite the fact it reads 608Z on the face. The "Z" stands for having a cover over the ball bearings. "ZZ" means there's a cover on both sides. Depending on the manufacturer they may not actually put "ZZ" on the cover you can see.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Oh, I haven't given up! I just need to figure out a way to safely get the bearings off this shaft. There is actually a retaining collar and a washer under one of them, which is pretty strange. That's the one I was trying to get off, so no wonder I was having trouble.

For future reference to anyone reading this. The bearing is actually a 608ZZ despite the fact it reads 608Z on the face. The "Z" stands for having a cover over the ball bearings. "ZZ" means there's a cover on both sides. Depending on the manufacturer they may not actually put "ZZ" on the cover you can see.

Correct, single z means sealed on one side zz means sealed on both sides

 

[redfishbluefish]

Unfortunately it's a "you need it and we have it" but that's why awesome people like @redfishbluefish give us workarounds

Unfortunately I had no "workaround" when three wetside magnets swelled and split because I use to soak them in vinegar, which permeates the plastic cover! No more vinegar for my magnets. Won't sell just the magnet (and these were old school MP's, where the magnet was held together with a nylon bolt.). So three new wet sides later at $75 a pop, and I'm back in business....an unexpected 225 blown just because I needed the magnets. Where is the end of the line for the sheep, I need to get into it.

 

[TheEngineer]

It really grinds my gears to have to buy an entire assembly for just one part. I get it they don't want to advertise you can buy the pieces, but come on... sell the odd person who calls in the part.

 

[TheEngineer]

Also, my Vectra M1 is making noise lol. I'm assuming that's just a bad impeller though. It stops if I give it a tap, but then it comes back.

Think they'll sell me a new impeller

 

[redfishbluefish]

Oh, I haven't given up! I just need to figure out a way to safely get the bearings off this shaft. There is actually a retaining collar and a washer under one of them, which is pretty strange. That's the one I was trying to get off, so no wonder I was having trouble.

For future reference to anyone reading this. The bearing is actually a 608ZZ despite the fact it reads 608Z on the face. The "Z" stands for having a cover over the ball bearings. "ZZ" means there's a cover on both sides. Depending on the manufacturer they may not actually put "ZZ" on the cover you can see.

You're not getting off that easy figuring out what bearing you need. . What ABEC would you like? Three, five, seven....would you like ceramic? Not sure what ABEC is all about. As an engineer I'm sure you'll enjoy discovering the world of bearings. For what it's worth, I just looked up your bearing at Boca, with an ABEC of 5....HERE. ABEC#5 is what I used in my rebuild. On Boca, simply search 608zz and see how many choices you have. Not so simple now.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Also, my Vectra M1 is making noise lol. I'm assuming that's just a bad impeller though. It stops if I give it a tap, but then it comes back.

Think they'll sell me a new impeller

The line for the sheep starts over here.

 

[TheEngineer]

You're not getting off that easy figuring out what bearing you need. . What ABEC would you like? Not sure what ABEC is all about. As an engineer I'm sure you'll enjoy discovering the world of bearings. For what it's worth, I just looked up your bearing at Boca, with an ABEC of 5....HERE. ABEC#5 is what I used in my rebuild. On Boca, simply search 608zz and see how many choices you have. Not so simple now.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Lol.....got a good chuckle from this one. Sound like my kids, but I'm missing the "lah, lah, lah, lah..."

 

[vetteguy53081]

Check magnet and make sure its not loose. Wetside- Assure hardware is placed back in correctly