My Beautiful Achilles ! Success

Yeh thanks for the advice guys , I just want to see how they do if they are the only tangs in the fish tank .
 
Yeh thanks for the advice guys , I just want to see how they do if they are the only tangs in the fish tank .
Parasite wise this is no different than being two of a dozen, unfortunately. The problem now is once they all develop ich you'll be quickly put on the defensive and reacting. It takes 3 days or more for anything to actually help the fish so by the time you decide to act it may well be too late. By the time you see spots on the body they've already done a number on the gills.

Get red nori to keep them as fat as possible while their nutrition gets sucked from them. Unfortunately with the gills being the first attack point, many slowly suffocate as well anyway.
 
Parasite wise this is no different than being two of a dozen, unfortunately. The problem now is once they all develop ich you'll be quickly put on the defensive and reacting. It takes 3 days or more for anything to actually help the fish so by the time you decide to act it may well be too late. By the time you see spots on the body they've already done a number on the gills.

Get red nori to keep them as fat as possible while their nutrition gets sucked from them. Unfortunately with the gills being the first attack point, many slowly suffocate as well anyway.


I'll have a 40g breeder for qt to be ready to catch him out . What temperature is best for the Achilles ?
 
Parasite wise this is no different than being two of a dozen, unfortunately. The problem now is once they all develop ich you'll be quickly put on the defensive and reacting. It takes 3 days or more for anything to actually help the fish so by the time you decide to act it may well be too late. By the time you see spots on the body they've already done a number on the gills.

Get red nori to keep them as fat as possible while their nutrition gets sucked from them. Unfortunately with the gills being the first attack point, many slowly suffocate as well anyway.


Will green nori from Julian sprung do ?
 
My tangs don't like green nori. I went to the Asian market and buy 10 sheet bags for a few bucks of red nori. As it happens I have a pbt, Achilles, purple, yellow, chevron and a blonde naso. Please listen to what these guys are telling you. Once you have corals in your tank, you won't be able to properly qt the tank. If ich strikes w the corals in, you hopefully pull the fish. Keep it on another tank for a few months to treat. Best case scenario you succeed and it beats ich and you will reintroduce it to the DT.
As someone who know, trust me, reintroduction of a pbt or Achilles back into an established tank will not go well as the other tang will establish their territory and beat the crap out of the fish being moved back in causing more stress and ich cycle.
Bottom line, hypo the whole tank now w fish in it and qt every fish that gets moved in. Save yourself the heartache of knowing you could have prevented deaths in the future
 
My tangs don't like green nori. I went to the Asian market and buy 10 sheet bags for a few bucks of red nori. As it happens I have a pbt, Achilles, purple, yellow, chevron and a blonde naso. Please listen to what these guys are telling you. Once you have corals in your tank, you won't be able to properly qt the tank. If ich strikes w the corals in, you hopefully pull the fish. Keep it on another tank for a few months to treat. Best case scenario you succeed and it beats ich and you will reintroduce it to the DT.
As someone who know, trust me, reintroduction of a pbt or Achilles back into an established tank will not go well as the other tang will establish their territory and beat the crap out of the fish being moved back in causing more stress and ich cycle.
Bottom line, hypo the whole tank now w fish in it and qt every fish that gets moved in. Save yourself the heartache of knowing you could have prevented deaths in the future

Yes true . I do only have a few corals . I'll monitor my tangs for a day or two if it getting ich I'll do hypo .
 
The thing w ich is it can be undetected for a while (long while) and if you get a stressor it will show up months later. If you want to successfully keep Achilles and pbt together for a long time, qt is a must and not when ich shows up but before. All fish AND the dt go through hypo and every fish that you bring in after needs to be qtd actively w hypo, tank transfer or copper and not just kept for observation in a different tank.
I'm not trying to be mean but wish for you to be successful for years, at which point you will look at these posts and thank us for pushing you to qt. 2-3 months of hypo does not kill bacteria and if you are worried that your tank can't handle it, have some water conditioner on hand just in case.
 
The thing w ich is it can be undetected for a while (long while) and if you get a stressor it will show up months later. If you want to successfully keep Achilles and pbt together for a long time, qt is a must and not when ich shows up but before. All fish AND the dt go through hypo and every fish that you bring in after needs to be qtd actively w hypo, tank transfer or copper and not just kept for observation in a different tank.
I'm not trying to be mean but wish for you to be successful for years, at which point you will look at these posts and thank us for pushing you to qt. 2-3 months of hypo does not kill bacteria and if you are worried that your tank can't handle it, have some water conditioner on hand just in case.


Can you show me a good article about hypo ?
 
As you will find out when you read about hypo or other methods, once you place fish into the display without qt, your display is potentially infected and removing one fish at a time is pointless. They will just be reintroduced to ich once they go back into the dt. The only way to do a proper regimen at this point is to remove all fish from the tank, qt them and keep the dt completely fish less for 2-3 months (meaning keeping the fish in temporary tanks for that time or put the dt through hypo for 2 months which in my opinion is best since fish are already settled in
 
I find that they like temps 78-80 degrees.



It may help but red nori is by far your best bet. I buy in bulk on amazon (50 sheets) of ocean nutrition

Yeh my Achilles is just swallowing chunks of nori right now he really a great eater .
 
Agreed with 3FordFamily, I just went through this with an achilles. He was eating like a pig on his 3rd day in qt, unfortunately broke out in ich after almost 3 weeks and I attempted to do the tank transfer method but he did not make it through the first 2 days
 
Agreed with 3FordFamily, I just went through this with an achilles. He was eating like a pig on his 3rd day in qt, unfortunately broke out in ich after almost 3 weeks and I attempted to do the tank transfer method but he did not make it through the first 2 days
Sorry for your loss. :(
 
Sorry for your loss. :(

Hey 3Ford , Ineed your expertise , so my friend had his tank crashed and I was his only option to save his corals . So I added all his corals to my tank by Doing that it mess up the water parameter . So now my Achilles has ich because he stresses . I settled up a 40g breeder and going to put my only 3 fish I have in there the PB Achilles and moorish idol . See should I do copper cupramine or hypo
 
Hey 3Ford , Ineed your expertise , so my friend had his tank crashed and I was his only option to save his corals . So I added all his corals to my tank by Doing that it mess up the water parameter . So now my Achilles has ich because he stresses . I settled up a 40g breeder and going to put my only 3 fish I have in there the PB Achilles and moorish idol . See should I do copper cupramine or hypo
Cupramine or copper safe. I'm using hypo but I can't report on its success personally yet I've used copper a lot with all 3 species successfully multiple times
 
Thanks 40g breeder should be fine for my 4.5inch Achilles

Better than nothing. Do daily very large water changes 80% or so. Get a seachem ammonia badge and do additional water changes if it's ever anything but yellow. What kills fish in quarantine is ammonia, not copper. Do NOT use prime, amquel, or any other ammonia nitrite or nitrate detoxifiers with copper. Just do large water changes. You'll need to replace the copper you took out daily in each water change.
 
Remember that time 40 people warned you about not treating your tank before adding corals after refusing to qt?

A humbling lesson indeed, luck to you sir!
 

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