new torch

Just for picture reference,
Cyano Top
Dino’s Bottom
IMG_0868.JPG
There we go thank you.....Yes I have the Dinos at the moment myself. I just transfered my 40 breeder into a 120. Bassically took a cycled 40 and put everything but the water in the 120. Talk about really fast cycling, started in 2 days with all that sand, rock. I didnt have any corals in my tank but a couple polyps. Had a couple fish that didnt make the move but my pistol shrimp did so its all good.
 
Did this brown stuff just pop up in a day?...like was your tank nice looking and within a couple days look like that? I ask because if so then zack is right, cyno has to grow...goes fast but starts out as a patch somewhere on a rock and just spreads and when you go at it you can peel it like carpet and it makes a mess that ruins your tank....if it doesnt look like that your good it isnt cyno.
it came up very fast, I've had something very like it before about 2 months after i started the tank, then it went away and I've just had green hair algae i couldn't get rid of, then a couple weeks ago i took a lot of rock out of my sump and added some sand in what I'm going to make a refuge in the sump, then within a couple of days it just popped up... it was actually worse, last weekend i siphoned all i could out and did a 10 gallon water change and so far its looking better than it was
 
it came up very fast, I've had something very like it before about 2 months after i started the tank, then it went away and I've just had green hair algae i couldn't get rid of, then a couple weeks ago i took a lot of rock out of my sump and added some sand in what I'm going to make a refuge in the sump, then within a couple of days it just popped up... it was actually worse, last weekend i siphoned all i could out and did a 10 gallon water change and so far its looking better than it was
Then zank is on the money thank goodness...Id take that over cyno. As for the hair algae a bristle toothed tang is a good add, reef friendly and will tolerate other tank mates, but they can be bullies...the Ctenochaetus strigosus is a favorite of mine...I had a Tomini tang also a bristle toothed tang and I got him and a coral beauty to be friends in a 40 gallon breeder...though I dont suggest a tank that small for those two not for there whole life......anyway They are great at controlling algae
 
Growth looks like Dino’s. The bubbles at the ends is a dead giveaway. Your water is WAY to clean to keep a torch. I have found in my many years of keeping torches they need nutrients in the water. Roughly 10ppm Nitrates and .05ppm-.10ppm Phosphates in the water to thrive. This will also help battle the Dino’s as they thrive is nutrient lacking water.

-Zack
how could i raise my nutrients? less skimming? more feeding? I've read about dosing spectricide stump remover to raise nitrates.
 
Dino’s can be 10x worse to get rid off then Cyano. I defeated them with a 10 day blackout, but most others have to go to extensive lengths. Nasty stuff to try and rid from the system.
 
Dino’s can be 10x worse to get rid off then Cyano. I defeated them with a 10 day blackout, but most others have to go to extensive lengths. Nasty stuff to try and rid from the system.
Yea but you know there from the sand you added, so If thats the actual case then they will go away on there own when it finishes that set back you gave it and fully finishes its cycle. The reason you see these microscopic Diatoms is because there dieing in piles and collecting forming a "carpet". If you remove the silicate and the silicic acid both from the tank's water, and from the raw water used to prepare water for water changes, ... lower the oxygen levels when they die off in the aquarium.
 
My tank had it really bad for a couple days, I havent touched it and its already going away...mine just isnt as stringy as in your images. I also have an open brain hitcher coral thats on a rock I was building a my reef with and it made the change and now the rock its on is covered but the coral is un touched and by no help from me, Its actually doing really good for some reason.....So I have hopes your tank will clear it self up with your aid and look beautiful again..and that coral you just bought will open all beast mode for you.
 
My tank had it really bad for a couple days, I havent touched it and its already going away...mine just isnt as stringy as in your images. I also have an open brain hitcher coral thats on a rock I was building a my reef with and it made the change and now the rock its on is covered but the coral is un touched and by no help from me, Its actually doing really good for some reason.....So I have hopes your tank will clear it self up with your aid and look beautiful again..and that coral you just bought will open all beast mode for you.
thanks, the algae does look better, the coloring in my pics is off from my taking the pics with my phone , the sand and rocks aren't nearly that red looking as in the pics, I'm gonna siphon out some more this weekend and do another water change, buy a better test kit, and go from there...
 
thanks, the algae does look better, the coloring in my pics is off from my taking the pics with my phone , the sand and rocks aren't nearly that red looking as in the pics, I'm gonna siphon out some more this weekend and do another water change, buy a better test kit, and go from there...
That explains why I thought it was red cyno...got ya lol...Yea thats the best you can do for sure... Much luck to you and look forward to more of your posts and images.
 
I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes here but Diatoms are not the same as Dinoflagellates.... As I understand they can take hold in your tank if you allow your Po4 and NO3 to stay at 0. Also I was using a API test for NO3. I always got a 0 reading too. I switched to a Red Sea and got a 4ppm reading. You could have old/bad test. Good luck.
 
I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes here but Diatoms are not the same as Dinoflagellates.... As I understand they can take hold in your tank if you allow your Po4 and NO3 to stay at 0. Also I was using a API test for NO3. I always got a 0 reading too. I switched to a Red Sea and got a 4ppm reading. You could have old/bad test. Good luck.
Yea, I had suspected diatoms because of the new sand I added, but I don’t think it really looks like diatoms,a new and better test kit will be on the way, I’ve never liked my api kit anyway because the tube caps leak when I shake them..
 
I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes here but Diatoms are not the same as Dinoflagellates.... As I understand they can take hold in your tank if you allow your Po4 and NO3 to stay at 0. Also I was using a API test for NO3. I always got a 0 reading too. I switched to a Red Sea and got a 4ppm reading. You could have old/bad test. Good luck.
I stand corrected...good to know...would explain the stringy effect I dont see in a cycled tank and why its not going away like it should. Then in that case You got high silica and phosphate issues imo
I had suspected diatoms because of the new sand I added, but I don’t think it really looks like diatoms,a new and better test kit will be on the way, I’ve never liked my api kit anyway because the tube caps leak when I shake them.
mine did the same..
 
When I first started my tank was really clean and I thought that it was a good thing after 10 years I can say that in most circumstances the dirtier the better. How clean is the ocean? Just sayin....
 
Growth looks like Dino’s. The bubbles at the ends is a dead giveaway. Your water is WAY to clean to keep a torch. I have found in my many years of keeping torches they need nutrients in the water. Roughly 10ppm Nitrates and .05ppm-.10ppm Phosphates in the water to thrive. This will also help battle the Dino’s as they thrive is nutrient lacking water.

-Zack
I’m wondering if I should take out the block of marinepure, it’s probably soaking up all my nutrients
 
No and here is why:
To my understanding Marine pure blocks help supply a LARGE population of bacteria to break down organics (NH3 and NO2) into Nitrates (NO3).
The only way for the NO3 to leave a system is to physically remove it through water changes, Carbon dosing, Biopellets, and of course corals and Algae. With all this being said, their is one other way to remove it. Deep within sandbeds and rocks, where oxygen is slim to none, their is what’s called “Anerobic Zones” These zones house the bacteria that takes out Nitrates as well as some Phosphates.
I don’t personally believe that a marine pure block can have that low of a flow to create these zones. They are just too porous. Which means if you remove the block, the only thing that would change would be how much NH3 and NO2 you can process into NO3.

-Zack, to my understanding
 
No and here is why:
To my understanding Marine pure blocks help supply a LARGE population of bacteria to break down organics (NH3 and NO2) into Nitrates (NO3).
The only way for the NO3 to leave a system is to physically remove it through water changes, Carbon dosing, Biopellets, and of course corals and Algae. With all this being said, their is one other way to remove it. Deep within sandbeds and rocks, where oxygen is slim to none, their is what’s called “Anerobic Zones” These zones house the bacteria that takes out Nitrates as well as some Phosphates.
I don’t personally believe that a marine pure block can have that low of a flow to create these zones. They are just too porous. Which means if you remove the block, the only thing that would change would be how much NH3 and NO2 you can process into NO3.

-Zack, to my understanding
It’s also teeming with pods, I’m hoping at some point to get a mandarian, would hate to lose that added bonus too
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top