Nitrates Issues

TJFitz1980

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first of all I’ll admit I haven’t done water changes as I should. The tank has been up for about a year with no real issues. It’s a 40 gal fish only setup.

My filtration is 3 fluval 70s. They have blue disposable filter then factory white sponge block then I have bio balls. That is in each of the 3. I have an eshopps hob 100 protein skimmer.

My ammonia nitrites both read zero but my nitrates are through the roof. Last night I did an 8 gal water change. Yet still I’m getting very high readings. I do use tap water (I know I need to buy an ro/di). I test the tape water and the nitrates read zero so the issue is within the tank.

I do have this pink algae like growth that gets on the sand bed rock and glass. Which I would assume is due to the nitrates.

My question is what is a safe effective way to lower these? I am now going to be doing byweekly water changes of 8 gallons. Any advise is greatly appreciated

Thank you


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If your sure the tap water has no Nitrates, just do 10g water changes every other day until your Trates are gone, then go to weekly or biweekly water changes.
 
How long have you had that blue hippo?

What are your nitrates at? Your water source is likely at least partially responsible. Feeding regiments may need adjusted as well. The pink stuff may be cyano; hard to say, but your system doesn't look all that bad. Make sure you hit your rocks with a turkey baster before doing your water changes; loosens up detritus, helps to remove as much junk as possible.

You may need to do a few larger water changes to really make a dent, then go back to your routine, smaller, changes.

How old is this system?
 
If your sure the tap water has no Nitrates, just do 10g water changes every other day until your Trates are gone, then go to weekly or biweekly water changes.

I fear that much change would make my tank cycle again. Do you think that woud not be an issue?

The same test I do in the tank shows zero in straight tap water.
 
How long have you had that blue hippo?

What are your nitrates at? Your water source is likely at least partially responsible. Feeding regiments may need adjusted as well. The pink stuff may be cyano; hard to say, but your system doesn't look all that bad. Make sure you hit your rocks with a turkey baster before doing your water changes; loosens up detritus, helps to remove as much junk as possible.

You may need to do a few larger water changes to really make a dent, then go back to your routine, smaller, changes.

How old is this system?


I’ve had the hippo for a long time. It’s been in the tank for almost the entire time. Tank is 1 yr old. I do an API test and it’s bright red so the top of its scale.

I do need to do the baster idea before changes. That’s a great idea.

My fear with more larger changes is causing a cycle again. Over all my tank looks good to me but I just want to prevent and issue. Thank you
 
I fear that much change would make my tank cycle again. Do you think that woud not be an issue?

The same test I do in the tank shows zero in straight tap water.
No, it won't cycle doing the changes every other day, its safe. You can't use the same test for fresh water, Nitrates tests are different, and some use different color chart.
 
I’ve had the hippo for a long time. It’s been in the tank for almost the entire time.

FWIW, not an ideal tank size for this fish.

My feet with more larger changes is causing a cycle again.

Your beneficial bacteria are in your substrate not primarily in your water column. You could do a 50% water change and it won't cause a cycle.
 
I fear that much change would make my tank cycle again. Do you think that woud not be an issue?
No, it won't cycle doing the changes every other day, its safe. You can't use the same test for fresh water, Nitrates tests are different, and some use different color chart.


I should had known that with the fresh water...stupid mistake but thank you. I’ll start on the water changes to get these down. Ry for you friendly advise. Means a lot. Thank you
 
FWIW, not an ideal tank size for this fish.



Your beneficial bacteria are in your substrate not primarily in your water column. You could do a 50% water change and it won't cause a cycle.


Yes. I understand and agree on not being ideal.

Thank you for your advise I will get started on these water changes to get these numbers down. Thanks again
 
So you guys don’t think I should add a reactor and run de*nirtate in it?

Take it a step at a time. Do the recommendations provided above, test, and see where you're at. Changing too much at one time never ends well. If you hit the root cause and source of the nitrate, you probably won't need a reactor.
 
Before implementing any sort of media or reactor into the system, you need to pinpoint what exactly is causing these high nitrates. What's your feeding schedule like and what do you feed? You said you tested your tap water for nitrates, but what about nitrite and ammonia? Most tap waters will have some ammonia, and unless it's removed mechanically, it will simply be food for your tanks' bacteria that will simply be nitorfied into nitrates.
 
I really need to get a ro/di. I’m sure this is the major cause. Just I don’t know much about them...
 
Are there any corals or inverts in there? If it's a FOWLR, nitrates don't hurt fish. It's nice to have them low, but not really an issue in a swim tank.
 
Denitrification takes place in low oxygen areas and is carbon limited. Both conditions should be present so the bacteria can use the NO3 in their respiration process. One of the best carbon sources I've tried is Red Sea's NoPoX. Biopellets works but you will need a recirculating reactor and adjusting the amount of flow and quantity of pellets is very tricky.
 
What about doing a reactor but putting macro algae’s and wrapping it with led light strip? That would naturally help reduce the nitrates plus food for my tangs when I harvest correct?
 
What about doing a reactor but putting macro algae’s and wrapping it with led light strip? That would naturally help reduce the nitrates plus food for my tangs when I harvest correct?
Chaetomorpha reactors are a new trend in the hobby. Is well known that macroalgae can reduce NO3 and PO4 but if the systems produces a lot of it you will need to grow a lot of macroalgae in a short period of time. Correct lighting, photoperiod and flow trough the reactor are very important. Tangs and Angelfish don't usually prefer chaetomorpha, so it's possible that you will end throwing away excess algae or giving it to fellow reefers.
 
Chaetomorpha reactors are a new trend in the hobby. Is well known that macroalgae can reduce NO3 and PO4 but if the systems produces a lot of it you will need to grow a lot of macroalgae in a short period of time. Correct lighting, photoperiod and flow trough the reactor are very important. Tangs and Angelfish don't usually prefer chaetomorpha, so it's possible that you will end throwing away excess algae or giving it to fellow reefers.

So then along with water changes to get this down this would be a good idea.

Now I just will need to find a source to get some chaeto...any suggestions on where to get a small bit of that l?
 

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