No love for MH?

[Jeremy Luke]

Good points going to 100% regret getting rid of it, my counter is 1016W of metal halide and T5 probably wouldn't do to well in a 700-800 sqft Boston apartment.

I'm running 816w with mine. I don't experience any heat issues. Perhaps your AC bill in the height of summer may be a little more? You could always give it a shot. You already have the fixture and ballasts.

 

[jda]

We already covered the 2020 thing. It is just for Mercury Vapor bulbs and just in general lighting. Metal Halide is not even on that list. Neither are specialty or hobby items. It is incompetence to compare the two.

 

[jda]

Good points going to 100% regret getting rid of it, my counter is 1016W of metal halide and T5 probably wouldn't do to well in a 700-800 sqft Boston apartment.

If you think that 3x Radions will cut it, then just run 175w MH bulbs and keep the T5 off except for a few hours of dusk viewing. This is about the same wattage as some Radions but with better and more even coverage.

If you think that the 250w MH are necessary, then you will be wanting 6x Radions.

There is no electrical savings when comparing coverage and PAR. The only people who save any electricity were people who used too much MH in the first place (400w when 150w would have been just fine). Being up North, heat might be an issue in the summer months, but a blessing the rest of the time - this is a neutral and maybe even a net positive.

 

[Jay Norris]

I'm running 816w with mine. I don't experience any heat issues. Perhaps your AC bill in the height of summer may be a little more? You could always give it a shot. You already have the fixture and ballasts.

If I lived in a cooler climate I would probably still use M/H's and T5's, but since I don't live in Colorado, as I live in South Florida, I will stay with my Mitra LED's. These lights are really growing on me, as I can program any color spectrum I want without buying new bulbs every 9 to 12 months, plus I have the added benefit of the tank room running a lot cooler and less humid. M/H lights were really good, but the high end LED lights have caught up with the M/H and t5 lights. I also love the ramp up and down cycles, which make for a really cool morning and late night viewing pleasure.

 

[Jay Norris]

If you think that 3x Radions will cut it, then just run 175w MH bulbs and keep the T5 off except for a few hours of dusk viewing. This is about the same wattage as some Radions but with better and more even coverage.

If you think that the 250w MH are necessary, then you will be wanting 6x Radions.

There is no electrical savings when comparing coverage and PAR. The only people who save any electricity were people who used too much MH in the first place (400w when 150w would have been just fine). Being up North, heat might be an issue in the summer months, but a blessing the rest of the time - this is a neutral and maybe even a net positive.

 

[Jay Norris]

Or for the same price he could go with the Mitra LX7206 lights, and three will easily cove a 6' tank, so will the 3 Radions , but you will have to raise them a little higher. You are right about the fact that their is very little electrical savings in using LED lights compared to M/H lights, but the electrical cost saving for the added A/C use, and if you are like me, needing to use a chiller year round , then their is an immense cost saving using LED's. I will tell you this 3 Mitra's will cover the same area as 3 175 watt M/H lights and fixtures, been there, done that,

 

[shred5]

Fun fact that I learned the hard way... I put a LED light bulb in my garage door opener. It would open, but never shut while the light was on. Went to Google and there is something in LED bulbs that messes with signal reception with rolling-code garage door openers unless you are SUPER close. If anybody has this problem, put a CFL or normal bulb back in there. This drove us crazy for a few months until I figured it out. Of course, this has nothing to do with LEDs, just a wierd cooincidence of tech messing with each other.

By the way that was the issue with my garage door opener.. I had been trying to figure it out for a year now and almost called someone on this.
When the light is out the door closes and when the light is on it wont, but I never realized this till your post.
Always opens. Thank you for this.

 

[A. grandis]

The best growth and colors I've ever had were under halides.
Spectra is an amazing fixture! Very good distribution and very well built!
One of the best fixtures I've ever had. Will last forever!
The pictures above don't do justice to the light, as most of us already know! Just a cell phone pic.

 

[Jay Norris]

The best growth and colors I've ever had were under halides.
Spectra is an amazing fixture! Very good distribution and very well built!
One of the best fixtures I've ever had. Will last forever!
The pictures above don't do justice to the light, as most of us already know! Just a cell phone pic.

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Just purchased a halide fixture. Can’t wait!

 

[naterealbig]

Just purchased a halide fixture. Can’t wait!

Hey Kayden,

What did you get?

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Hey Kayden,

What did you get?

An oddysea 150w with a 14k phoenix bulb.

 

[naterealbig]

Nice, I have two of those brand. The 24" I'm going to use on my coral QT tank. I bought a Ushio 20k for it, but haven't fired it up yet...

 

[naterealbig]

Just got my hands on a 48" Giesemann Spectra.... Should be here Wednesday - can't wait!!!! Thinking 250w Radium, 2 x B+, 2 x true actinics, and 2 Reefbrite XHO.

FWIW, I have an infinity over my 48x 38 x 22h display currently, and I have 100% complete coverage with absolutely no dim spots. This is despite the massive footprint of my tank, and the smaller DE reflectors. MH is an amazing lighting solution.

 

[Jeremy Luke]

Your Spectra will have the exact bulb combo I use in my Spectra. I really, really like that setup.

 

[Jeremy Luke]

Well, to be specific, I'm using the Orphek UV LED bars, but the bulbs are the same. I think it really makes for a nice looking display.

 

[naterealbig]

Well, to be specific, I'm using the Orphek UV LED bars, but the bulbs are the same. I think it really makes for a nice looking display.

Hey Jeremy,

I still haven't purchased the LEDs yet. Based on your observation, would I be better off going with the UV strip from Orphek, or sticking to the plan with XHOs?. Or something else?

 

[RCS82]

I ran a blue xho strip with my T5s and am now running M/H and an Orphek UV strip in the morning and evening with some 50/50 leds also. I much prefer the reefbrite XHO and will be switching back.

 

[Jeremy Luke]

@naterealbig Well, there you go. I have not utilized the XHOs to compare. I believe there is far more blue in the XHOs then the UV Orpheks. The Orphek UVs are just that, UV LEDs that peak at around ~410nm. By themselves they are very dark but make corals glow. I think if I were going to run the LEDs by themselves I'd get one UV and a Blue from Orphek to run together. Some may want just two blues. The Reefbrite XHOs are probably pretty good lights but they sure are proud of them. I think the Reefbreeders and the Orpheks are about half the price of the XHOs.

For me it was also very important to not have to drill holes in my light fixture to add LEDs. I knew this was possible with the Orpheks because another member was using the blue versions on their 48" Giesemann Spectra. He showed me how to alter the mounts that come with the Orpheks to attach them without drilling holes in the Spectra. This was my first priority. If I couldn't add LEDs without drilling my expensive German fixture, I would not add LEDs.

 

[sdcosta]

I use metal halides over my 180 sps dominant tank, lumen bright mogul pendants. Currently adding on some reefbrite strips as well. It keeps my basement warm but I also have a chiller running.