No Tank Lids vs Yes Tank Lids ?

I am really surprised how many people use glass tops on here, wow. I thought that was purely for freshwater people when I’ve seen them for sale.

Gas exchange guys, gas exchange. It is your reef’s friend.
Get a dehumidifier if you get wet walls/windows.
I was surprised too. Fogged glass, algae growing on it if you let it go long enough, heat trapped, etc. I did it that way for a long time, but I consider a mesh top a huge upgrade.
 
Everyone says "gas exchange" I do as well, honestly. Has anyone done any measurements on O2 levels in a glass versus open topped aquarium? Especially with a sump. Also probably want a with/without refugium. I'm sure someone has...just need the reference posted. :) I don't like saying the usual reefing folklore if there's data.

I gotta think that one - it's not going to be a hermetically sealed top so air will get in and exchange with surface air and two - it doesn't take a lot of surface agitation to reach saturation levels. Plus....sump!
 
I used glass then open top for a long time. Now I have mesh on one tank and egg crate on the other.
I have 3 100 gallon tubs with water in them too. I run a dehumidifier and it's not a problem.
 
I am really surprised how many people use glass tops on here, wow. I thought that was purely for freshwater people when I’ve seen them for sale.

Gas exchange guys, gas exchange. It is your reef’s friend.
Get a dehumidifier if you get wet walls/windows.
Non issue if you have a skimmer and or sump. Perhaps on a AIO nano gas exchange might be limited. Not on a big system with a skimmer and sump.
 
I started with glass lids, and had all of the problems mentioned... algae growth, salt creep, and etched glass which at least every couple of years necessitated replacement of the glass.

Then I ditched the glass and used eggcrate instead. When I did that, I expected to see a change in pH due to better gas exchange. I saw an average rise of just 0.1, based upon a year of numbers before and after the change.

I always felt like the eggcrate was less than ideal in terms of light transparency (not to mention aesthetics), so after a few more years I had custom polycarbonate-framed mesh lids made by Artfully Acrylic. I think they are still sponsors here. For what they were, I thought the price for the lids was high, but I've been using them for 5 years and they are still in great shape and look awesome.

In my climate, the issue with mesh lids (or no lids) is evaporation and indoor humidity. It's not a problem during summer when the A/C runs a lot or during spring and fall when the windows are open, but in winter it's a big issue. I have a commercial dehumidifier running right now, and it's removing about 6 gallons of water a day, reducing the humidity from 80% to 50%. Without the dehumidifier, I would be having problems with mold/mildew, wet windows, and who knows what else. I'm seriously considering going back to glass lids for the winter months. And I should point out that dehumidifiers are power-hungry beasts. They will make a noticeable difference in the electric bill.

With a skimmer running and an open sump, gas exchange is not an issue, IME, and glass lids do not reduce gas exchange in any significant way.
 
IMO a rimless tank with no top whatsoever is the most elegant and clean looking tank however, if you prefer fish in this system then a recessed mesh top is a must unless fish chips is what your overall goal is when buying livestock. I can't stand glass tops, I've had them before and the condensation on them looks terrible to me.
 
Always have a canopy or lid on my tanks. I really don’t understand the rimless/open top craze that’s been taking place. With other furry friends in the house, I couldn’t imagine having an open/rimless tank. Evaporation alone should steer people away from open tanks but companies like Red Sea and the likes have taken a different route. Red Sea tanks of old like the Max series take the cake for me, some of the nicest tanks ever made were those RSM’s from 250 and up.

Might be worth noting that I have a RedSea 525xl rimless tank, custom mesh top (basically rimless) and I only go through 5 gallons of top off a week. I don't think it be fair to say it's a ridiculous endeavor to have rimless for the purposes stated.
 
Some of us encourage evaporation. Makes dosing enough kalkwasser easy. Just a thought.

If you AC your whole house that extra humidity is going to kill the efficiency of your AC units.
 
Some of us encourage evaporation. Makes dosing enough kalkwasser easy. Just a thought.

You can PM me so as not to derail the thread - but 'how', 'why'. It seems to me that 'encouraging evaporation' - would make everything harder - and btw I'm mesh all the way
 
If you AC your whole house that extra humidity is going to kill the efficiency of your AC units.
20.5 SEER inverter system with a dehumidification setting. It seems to have no impact on the system, but I was ready just in case...
 
You can PM me so as not to derail the thread - but 'how', 'why'. It seems to me that 'encouraging evaporation' - would make everything harder - and btw I'm mesh all the way
PM attempted, but I couldn't access your profile page and don't know how otherwise...

It hasn't created any issues for me. The ATO does a good job of keeping the water level topped up, and the parameters stable. The Kalk doser supplements the ATO, and over time, I have been steadily increasing the kalkwasser dosage to match coral uptake. This lets me mix kalk at full strength all the time, and simply adjust the daily dosage ammount to meet demands. I test alk and cal weekly, so it's easy for me to increase as needed.
 
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I can’t understand how people run a tank with fish that doesn’t have a canopy or a mesh lid. Many more fish than just wrasses jump. I’m fine sacrificing a little on the aesthetics to keep my fish safe.
 
PM attempted, but I couldn't access your profile page and don't know how otherwise...

It hasn't created any issues for me. The ATO does a good job of keeping the water level topped up, and the parameters stable. The Kalk doser supplements the ATO, and over time, I have been steadily increasing the kalkwasser dosage to match coral uptake. This lets me mix kalk at full strength all the time, and simply adjust the daily dosage ammount to meet demands. I test alk and cal weekly, so it's easy for me to increase as needed.
You dose just Kalk to maintain CA ALK. Do you have separate ATO and KALK dosing? I'm thinking about the new Ecotech marine Versa pump to use on a Avast Marine Kalk stirrer. Do you have any trial/errors you could share?
 
PM attempted, but I couldn't access your profile page and don't know how otherwise...

It hasn't created any issues for me. The ATO does a good job of keeping the water level topped up, and the parameters stable. The Kalk doser supplements the ATO, and over time, I have been steadily increasing the kalkwasser dosage to match coral uptake. This lets me mix kalk at full strength all the time, and simply adjust the daily dosage ammount to meet demands. I test alk and cal weekly, so it's easy for me to increase as needed.

Great - yes - I think you're right - I just wondered why you thought evaporation was better than no evaporation
 
Custom made recessed mesh lids all the way for me. Simple to clean, clean look, deals with jumpers. Plenty of DIY options but if you can afford them the acrylic custom made options look great and work perfectly.
 
I can tell you Trane does not like humidity. Three fan motors in the lifetime of my AC system. First with a 200 gallon and then with a 300. I was adding 5 to 10 gallons of top off a week. The first two motors where covered by extended warranty, the third was $800 out of my pocket. My 310 now is less than 3 gallons a week with glass tops. I use trickle filters, so no issues with oxygen/gas exchange.
 
I can tell you Trane does not like humidity. Three fan motors in the lifetime of my AC system. First with a 200 gallon and then with a 300. I was adding 5 to 10 gallons of top off a week. The first two motors where covered by extended warranty, the third was $800 out of my pocket. My 310 now is less than 3 gallons a week with glass tops. I use trickle filters, so no issues with oxygen/gas exchange.
Humm. You shouldn't have a blower failure like that unless the humidity is massively high... I am a HVAC manager at a good sized 20 year company, and we service units in high humidity environments fairly regularly. Restaurant kitchens, gyms with indoor pools, and where I live, high humidity is a fact of life anyway.

We do see "some" additional corrosion on "some" components, but never a premature failure.

The only way elevated humidity could have an impact is if condensate was collecting on electronic components in large enough volume to create a short...

That typically only happens with incorrect blower speeds (too slow), improper duct sizing, (again, too small) or some other air restriction - like dirty filters or too many registers closed.

You may ask your HVAC guy to verify the correct fan speed, and duct size to be sure.
 
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