Nutrient reduction- Algae scrubber OR DIY algae reactor OR media reactor

Rakie's post is neat bc I too don't manage nitrates directly. I simply keep a clean bed and whatever results in the topwater above the tank adapts to.

I'm just tired of the narrative that nutrients are the devil, and the ocean is a near zero nutrient vacuum. I get where the sentiment comes from, but nutrients alone don't cause algae, don't cause problems, don't kill corals, etc etc etc.

if I had one wish for the reefing community it would be that everybody was more open minded to other ideals. If I had two wishes it would be that we all got a tank upgrade but the reef fairy isn't that giving :D
 
agreed again. I make large tank restoration threads having never asked once to see a test kit. They're so ballparked its not funny. they have confounds all the way as subtle as the type of lighting in one's kitchen that determine accuracy, its horseshoes man heh

I also don't care to know ID of the invader. non anchored invaders get the sand rinse, and anchored invaders get the metal rasp/parrotfish beak technique cuz I don't play around. I could care less what my po4 is or any other param, might as well be posting argon readings none of them matter to me. how rare for two to agree on such controversy.
 
in my opinion once we have eliminated any band aids for a pent up sandbed, all kinds of fair nutrient controls come into play just to avoid any super high levels that would outpace export, and fuel some unrulies

ATS are darn nice preventatives in my opinion, people were able to up their tank feed massively using those. if cost was no factor some denitrating machines have been posted and they're avail for purchase too. biopellet reactors but I like ATS due to cheap and pretty reliable for the need.
 
Reading on R2R has made me scared of nutrients lol. Honestly I worry more about my fish than my corals when nitrates and phosphates are concerned. I think that's from me coming from freshwater. Logically, they're probably not a big deal at all though.
 
Would there be any great benefit to waiting for the smaller model? I don’t mind spending the extra money on the 100 now and being able to use it on future upgrade tanks. Also I was wondering what pump you guys recommend to feed the scrubber

Elisa, take your time and do your research. You waiting a few weeks is not a big deal. I am not familiar with clear water scrubbers. If they have one that better fits your application, and works for you cost wise, then wait. I have had my 302 scrubber for a while now. I get a lot of light pollution (leakage outside of the scrubber) that does light up my basement where the scrubber is. It is not a big deal... except for the nosy neighbors who may think I am growing something else in the basement... :) . 302 has done a better job of shielding since I got mine... and they have a lot less light pollution. Perhaps clear water has a better scrubber.

I am convinced that algae scrubbers do a much better job of managing nutrients. I also think it is much more convenient, efficient and safer to do than carbon dosing: bio pellets, vodka dosing, NoPox...etc... Long term, you will be happy with a more natural solution to nutrient export.... in my opinion.
 
FWIW, I think organic carbon dosing has a lot going for it as a way to reduce nitrate while at the same time provide food for filter feeders. :)
 
Reading on R2R has made me scared of nutrients lol. Honestly I worry more about my fish than my corals when nitrates and phosphates are concerned. I think that's from me coming from freshwater. Logically, they're probably not a big deal at all though.

You don't need to worry too much about your fish in a higher nutrient environment. You can successfully keep fish in high Nitrates and Phosphates.... What many Fish Only tanks struggle with is algae running rampant because their nutrients are so high. As another poster had eluded to, nutrients are not a bad thing for corals either. It is excess nutrients that is the problem. I have seen killer SPS reefs with high nitrates >30 and phosphates >.9 The trouble too with nutrients is ultra low nutrients where both nitrates and phosphates are undetectable. Corals start to starve...if not fed. The key is to find the right spot for your tank and system.... along with the inhabitants. I personally would much rather have low nutrients via an algae scrubber that means I have to feed more... meaning fish can eat more...everyone is happy....than have too high of nutrients and having to dose stuff or change out stuff.... which causes fluctuations in your water parameters... As you get further into the hobby, the key to keeping killer corals is stability. The less swings you get in water parameters...the better your corals will look, grow... etc... Again, I believe the algae scrubbers give a great deal of stability to a tank.
 
FWIW, I think organic carbon dosing has a lot going for it as a way to reduce nitrate while at the same time provide food for filter feeders. :)

Randy, you are an expert for sure. I won't argue your point as it for sure is valid. I do think that carbon dosing has downside and that is the management, maintenance and the potential for mishap. I have tried most of the carbon dosing methods and have found that there are also other nuances that need greater consideration and monitoring.... i.e. higher alkalinity with carbon dosing causing burned tips of sps as an example. Precision is also a moving target based on water parameters and livestock. This makes things a bit more complicated but not impossible.

Algae scrubbers.... for me at least... remove some of the complications and complexity.
 
Randy, you are an expert for sure. I won't argue your point as it for sure is valid. I do think that carbon dosing has downside and that is the management, maintenance and the potential for mishap. I have tried most of the carbon dosing methods and have found that there are also other nuances that need greater consideration and monitoring.... i.e. higher alkalinity with carbon dosing causing burned tips of sps as an example. Precision is also a moving target based on water parameters and livestock. This makes things a bit more complicated but not impossible.

Algae scrubbers.... for me at least... remove some of the complications and complexity.

I've got nothing against growing macroalgae. I did it alongside organic carbon dosing for a long time.

I don't think the issue with burnt tips is carbon dosing per se, but driving nutrients too low by whatever means. If you keep adequate nitrate in the system, I am not convinced there's any issue. :)
 
I've got nothing against growing macroalgae. I did it alongside organic carbon dosing for a long time.

I don't think the issue with burnt tips is carbon dosing per se, but driving nutrients too low by whatever means. If you keep adequate nitrate in the system, I am not convinced there's any issue. :)

You are an expert Randy. I cant argue to the contrary. I simply used Alk and Carbon Dosing as an example of issues I experienced prior to going to an algae scrubber. I will stand by my statement that Algae scrubbers have the potential to lessen complexity of dosing and the complications of incorrect dosing. That is my experience. But... I may be in the minority so... again, I will defer to you.
 
I will stand by my statement that Algae scrubbers have the potential to lessen complexity of dosing and the complications of incorrect dosing. That is my experience.

As a balanced nutrient export method, macroalgae works well, and as I said, I used it in my system. I'm not sure on the complexity part, but I can see how one might make that case. In all nutrient export methods, one needs to reach an appropriate amount of export, and macroalgae growth is perhaps inefficient enough that it is hard to drive nutrients too low for corals using just macroalgae. So that is a buffer against excessively low nutrients that may not be present when using methods like GFO or organic carbon dosing that can be more easily overdone in some systems.

One issue is that being balanced, macroalgae cannot readily deal well with imbalances, and other methods may need to take up the slack. For example, if there is any significant amount of denitrification taking place in the tank, then macroalgae may run out of N before they use up the phosphate, and phosphate may slowly climb.
 
FWIW, I think organic carbon dosing has a lot going for it as a way to reduce nitrate while at the same time provide food for filter feeders. :)

I agree with you sir. Not only it reduces nitrate and some phosphate, they produce more food than I thought. The only shellfishes I can't keep is those living inside the mud or sands.

IMO, algae scrubber alongside bacteria scrubber is like a racing car with nitrous boost. Algae scrubber for cruising, bacteria scrubber as nitrous boost when you need it.
 
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Would there be any great benefit to waiting for the smaller model? I don’t mind spending the extra money on the 100 now and being able to use it on future upgrade tanks. Also I was wondering what pump you guys recommend to feed the scrubber

Not if you are planning on an upgrade to your tank later down the line. You might need to adjust the light cycle so that it doesn't over clean your water. That's the only issue with going with a larger scrubber.
 
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Just curious what your Phosphate levels are?? I like the idea of using Macro Algae so having some in a fuge or chaeto reactor would help but carbon dosing has had great results for getting Nitrate and Phosphate down quickly!
 
I use a Santa Monica algae scrubber, 4 red led model, 1 1/2? Cube Feeding a day...it works great..way easier to maintain than a reactor...I used to do gfo but that got too expensive and labor intensive (cleaning the gfo before use, getting rid of old gfo, extra equipment (reactor) to maintain...it was too much work
 
We build light blocker for all of our units. BRS will be carrying them after the new year. If you decide to buy our unit before they have them up on the site, go to our website and you can buy them there.
I purchased one of your scrubbers from BRS. For the cost of the unit, it should have come with a light blocker. It's not like you didn't know when the unit was designed that light bleed was going to be an issue. To have to now spend more money on a part that should have been part of the product is a bit greedy. Sorry to sound negative, but the light bleed is not a little it's a lot. In addition I find the algae grows up and into the feed pipe on the screen. There needs to be some type of light blocker that keeps the light out of the area where the slit and screen meet.
 
I purchased one of your scrubbers from BRS. For the cost of the unit, it should have come with a light blocker. It's not like you didn't know when the unit was designed that light bleed was going to be an issue. To have to now spend more money on a part that should have been part of the product is a bit greedy. Sorry to sound negative, but the light bleed is not a little it's a lot. In addition I find the algae grows up and into the feed pipe on the screen. There needs to be some type of light blocker that keeps the light out of the area where the slit and screen meet.

Ken,

Thank you for your input but to include the light blockers would have increased the price more. Also, some people don’t mind the bleed of light as it is similar to a refugium light. This was a mutual decision between BRS and us to sell them separately. I’m sorry but it’s not greedy. Have you priced acrylic lately or the cost of labor and machines to cut these parts? It’s not cheap! Nor are the units we build. They are constructed from 100% acrylic. There is not another product that is in this industry that will save you money in the long term other than these units. This unit pays for itself just in the reduced use of salt from having less water changes.
The light is always going to allow the algae to grow into the pipe slot. Increasing the flow will help prevent this growth as will regular cleaning of the screen and slot pipe area. We are trying to always make improvements but making a light blocker that will hold up to repeated on/off use in that area is not easy or cheap.
 
Ken,

Thank you for your input but to include the light blockers would have increased the price more. Also, some people don’t mind the bleed of light as it is similar to a refugium light. This was a mutual decision between BRS and us to sell them separately. I’m sorry but it’s not greedy. Have you priced acrylic lately or the cost of labor and machines to cut these parts? It’s not cheap! Nor are the units we build. They are constructed from 100% acrylic. There is not another product that is in this industry that will save you money in the long term other than these units. This unit pays for itself just in the reduced use of salt from having less water changes.
The light is always going to allow the algae to grow into the pipe slot. Increasing the flow will help prevent this growth as will regular cleaning of the screen and slot pipe area. We are trying to always make improvements but making a light blocker that will hold up to repeated on/off use in that area is not easy or cheap.

I have the 200 model and I am running a 700 gph pump wide open. How much higher should I run the flow?

I do agree the unit is well made and with quality materials. There weren't very many reviews available when I purchased mine. I ended up using a piece of hard board insulation with a reflective side down over the unit as a lid for mine to cut down on the light spillage. Mine doesn't sit inside a cabinet. Just looks tacky with the foam board on top of it.
 
I have the 200 model and I am running a 700 gph pump wide open. How much higher should I run the flow?

I do agree the unit is well made and with quality materials. There weren't very many reviews available when I purchased mine. I ended up using a piece of hard board insulation with a reflective side down over the unit as a lid for mine to cut down on the light spillage. Mine doesn't sit inside a cabinet. Just looks tacky with the foam board on top of it.

700 is right in for that model. That amount of flow shouldn’t cause any problems with spillage from the algae. Send me your address at [email protected] and I will send you out a lid.

Thanks!
 

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