Oh no here we go!

revhtree · Jun 30, 2017

nvladik said:
Yep, they start to swim looking for a new energy source. Throw a filter sock in there on a suction cup or a magnet, and take a look at it mid-day tomorrow. I wonder if you will see what I saw, and if it gets filthy very very quickly.

So does this sound more like dinos than ostreopsis ovata?

saltyfilmfolks · Jun 30, 2017

nvladik said:
One procedure I invented is a natural, non-chemical way to drastically lower dino population - dino scrubber. In my testing, dinos like to attach (can be observed by free swimming dinos at night, that start to form strings when lights come on) to inorganic substances. An example that perplexed me - why a brand spanking new piece of eggcrate was brown and filthy within 24 hours, while liverock wasn't.

Dino Scrubber:
Any inorganic cloth, filer sock, filter floss, anything white and with plenty of surface area, inside the main DT right infront of the powerhead. Many reefers came up with unique ways to accomplish this, mine was a suction cup clip with filter floss on the glass panel across my powerhead. The material will collect dino colonies, all you have to do is wash it in fresh water every day about an hour before lights sunset. I removed 90% of ostreopsis infestation through this method over a month. Drawback of this fix - it's not permanent, and you have to keep on doing daily. Once population is down significantly, a daily dose of 1.2 ml per 10 gallons will keep them from overtaking the tank.

I would start this procedure prior to adding more life to the tank, as dino's toxicity (if a toxic species) will kill most new lifeforms; don't waste the money like I did on pods and additions CUC.

So a diatom filter or canister filter for manual removal. The what is it your dosing at 1.2 mil?

revhtree · Jun 30, 2017

By the way it was nice seeing you Vlad!

Reefer1978 · Jun 30, 2017

revhtree said:
So does this sound more like dinos than ostreopsis ovata?

Ostreopsis is a type of dinoflagellates. But if Dino's generally are a common cold, O.Ovata is herpes.

saltyfilmfolks said:
So a diatom filter or canister filter for manual removal. The what is it your dosing at 1.2 mil?

My bad, I edited the post. Peroxide. Controls them nicely, but doesn't fully get rid of them in my testing.

revhtree said:
By the way it was nice seeing you Vlad!

You too David!

Great meeting you at RAP.

saltyfilmfolks · Jun 30, 2017

nvladik said:
My bad, I edited the post. Peroxide. Controls them nicely, but doesn't fully get rid of them in my testing.

Ok thank you.

Your still having difficulty with them then?

Reefer1978 · Jun 30, 2017

saltyfilmfolks said:
Ok thank you.

Your still having difficulty with them then?

I couldn't do it anymore, so I broke the tank down, got rid of all the sand, rock, bleached all equipment in extra high dose of bleach, and got all new equipment for the small stuff, like drip lines, buckets, nets, etc.

But I still have access to them cause unfortunately we infected my friend's tank; during the breakdown I wanted to get rid of the frags, he decided to try and save them.

jsh mee · Jun 30, 2017

3 day blackout in DT with 24/7 lights on macro, then shortening photoperiod to 4-6 hours a day in DT for several weeks along with agressively blowing it off has always worked for me for anything of the sort.

But admittedly I've always been able to nip it in the bud, and I've never had anything that grew over chaeto either.

Black Pearl · Jun 30, 2017

Ran blues for few hours a day for coral, Got po4 and no3 back in balance(they were zero) increased light time and intensity on ATS,turkey basted rocks as much as possible to keep Dino in water column, ran Vortex Diatom filter or Marineland Magnum 350 with micron filter.
Amazing how so many new tanks get Dinos now. quote from Jurassic Park "Life Ahh finds a way"

bubbaque · Jun 30, 2017

revhtree said:
Thanks. One issue I already have is I can't get my PH to go up abouve 7.6.

Even with your co2 scrubber 7.6 is as high as you got your ph?

Robink · Jun 30, 2017

Going through this as well. Had no problems till my nutrients dropped to zero. Then an outbreak. Added a couple wrasse and have been feeding 3 X a day for almost a week. Dinos almost completely gone from my rocks, some left on the sand bed but seem to be going away. Just continuing to do weekly water changes, and vacuuming sand bed.
Read a lot of threads and since this coincided with my nutrients getting down to zero, hoped that is the cause.
Use snails as my cuc and added some more.

revhtree · Jun 30, 2017

jsker said:
Do you have a Hanna low phosphorous checker, that would be the closes way to get a true reading of you phosphates.

You will have to starve out the Dino's by bring down you phosphates to 0 or a trace for a week, then keep a trace for another week and then bring them back up to .02 to .03. As mentioned above Dino also like silica.

I do have a checker and the results were 13. So if my math is correct that would be somewhere around .04?

bubbaque · Jun 30, 2017

I think if you are willing to give peroxide a try, you would be amazed at how well it works and doesn't have a noticeable effect on anything else.

LV3 · Jul 1, 2017

revhtree said:
So you're saying it's going to go away on it's on?

Had an outbreak in one my tanks recently and it went away on its own. It went from dinos, snotty bubble strings covering only the new non cycled dry rock to turning into more of a green hair algae but more grass like. Then it seemed to die off on its own. Early on it bugged me to no end and I would blow it off with a turnkey baster and suck it out of he tank with a hose. Then when it got real bad I tried the 3 days of blackout which seemed to weaken it. After that I tried to manage the nutrients and just said f it and let it do its thing as I focused on my other tank. Normal water changes during that time. Then one day it appeared less and less the next. Took about 45 days to run its course but it's gone now like it never happened.

Xclusive Reef · Jul 1, 2017

Ref how about a pic so we can see how bad?

bubbaque · Jul 1, 2017

nycluis718 said:
Ref how about a pic so we can see how bad?

Rev never takes pics, lol. Look how many pics he has on his build thread.

revhtree · Jul 1, 2017

Heck no man I don't even like looking at it much less share it! Ha!

jsker · Jul 1, 2017

revhtree said:
I do have a checker and the results were 13. So if my math is correct that would be somewhere around .04?

yes , .043 to be exact. I cheat and use the Apex to track my number and Apex dose the math for me

.

revhtree · Jul 1, 2017

jsker said:
yes , .043 to be exact. I cheat and use the Apex to track my number and Apex dose the math for me.

So what do you think about that number?

Reefer1978 · Jul 1, 2017

It's fine Rev, if anything, dinos will help lower it

jsker · Jul 1, 2017

revhtree said:
So what do you think about that number?

To starve them out, my suggestion is to get them down to .01 or a trace and have you nitrates at 3 to 5 to starve them out for two weeks. Then bring the phosphate up to a .02 and see how the tank looks. If you want to get the phosphates down fast us a product with Lanthanum Chloride in it. Run GFO as normal. Are you running as filter media such as sprox, life bio fil? I run the life bio fil with a little zeomix to keep my nitrates in line, for the reason I feed heavy for the corals and I have fat fish