Oh no here we go!

I copied the below comments in quotation marks below to a file but failed to note the reference that I copied it from. I just saved the conversation for future reference. It may have been on R2R. I do not know what happened after the first week or when it was supposed to stop. I put this in mostly for the dosage recommendations for you to try in a "if all else fails" situation. Maybe someone else has tried this and can report on it. I suspect the Kalwasser comments are not germane to anyone else as this appears to be specific to a particular tank and should be ignored.

"Answer below was from a conversation with Julian Sprung.
I spoke to him at MACNA about this problem on a reef tank someone gave me. He told me to add 1/2 teaspoon Kalkwasser for a 90 gallon mixed with about 1/2-3/4 galllon tank water and pour in every day.
He also had me speak to a colleague of his who has a technique using Hydrogen Peroxide for my 90 gallon.
1 ml every day for a week
2 ml. every day for second week
3 ml. daily for 3rd week
Stepping up like that until 9 ml every day during 9th week and maintain 9ml daily after.
In a little over a week my tank is 95% free of Dinoflagellates( and red slime)! Amazing!"

Nice! @Julian Sprung is a member here. Maybe he will weigh in as well.
 
Just a thought, but if long term a strong and diverse biological can prevent/remedy a Dinos, is dosing a carbon source during lights out something that would jump start that biologic buffer system?
Potential catches I see. Maybe 3 days isn't enough for that to happen. Also perhaps the free floating dinos that happens in dark would be exploded.

I would also like to maybe get all that are struggling with "Dino's" to pop a picture of what it looks like under a microscope so we know who is dealing with what. Too many similar pest microbes in our systems and maybe that has something to do with the various solutions people have seen success with.

On a seperate note, I am also wondering what we collectively have been doing differently in the last year or two that so many of us are having this issue now. What has changed??? Lower nutrient systems? Bayer dipping residual affecting our microbial diversity?? Something else?? Love to hear some thoughts on that too. Sorry for the long post :)
 
Well Rev here it is for now.

Species of Dino unknown but guess Ostreopsis. Story is I had a salinity swing as well as bad RO due to inverted DI canister.

Manual removal plus twice daily H2O2 1 ml per 10 gallons. Second dose usually after manual removal when water column was the dirtiest. Despite new filters and working on salilinity they persisted and got worse. I do not have nutrient issues. Very stable at 0.08 PO4 and 5 ish nitrates. Skim heavy, heavy feeding, LR filtration, and that's it.

I do put a small mesh bag of Rox 0.8 carbon in the return area once in s while and added two extras for this due to the die off.

After 3.5 day black out things are spotless. Some residual brown colors that makes me nervous in a couple spots but may very well just be algae.

Corals definitely paled but still had impressive growth. There's a couple new growth shoots on one of my acros and most others still had significant growth even with lights off.

Here are some pics. I'm holding H2O2 for now and monitoring.

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.egg crate might show the spots I was speaking off that are tan ish.

I'll post before pics soon. At work. Bad timing on my part.

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Thanks. One issue I already have is I can't get my PH to go up abouve 7.6.
This must be that southern spelling for above.....your accent is even thick when typing:D....keep at it and you"lol kick it....time and patience!
 
Before. Not at it's worse. Day after cleaning.

I also used filter sock during this phase and during black out. Normally don't use.

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I had a rock in the tank that was dissolving on the inside. Found out cause I went to pull the rock to break it down into pieces to reattach and found that it was dissolving. Started a 7 week curing process for some new rock. After 7 weeks, went to clean the tank for the new rock addition and about a week after adding the rock, my nutrients plunged to No3-0 and PO4-0.001. At the same time we had a heat wave hit and I didn't get the AC on in time which caused the temp to increase about 1.5 - 2 deg. Then the brown dusting started.

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how long did it take to get the outbreak that bad? did you end up taking tank down or how did you clean it out?
 
Dry rock is pretty much the standard now, but I could see how things could become easily unbalanced.

Dry rock + carbon dosing + immature systems, combined with running clean seems a potential knife edge. When ReefBum torn down + rebooted (his first ever), he went live rock thinking dry contributed to his Dino's forced reboot.

It's probably many factors + luck, not saying it's one thing.
 
how long did it take to get the outbreak that bad? did you end up taking tank down or how did you clean it out?
Took me a week to see brown dusting. That prompt me to test the water. So if i could guess, sometime between 3 days and a week?

Tank is still running. For the sake of R2R and education, im fighting it to see if it can be fixed. I want to break it down but @mcarroll won't let me lol ;)
 
Took me a week to see brown dusting. That prompt me to test the water. So if i could guess, sometime between 3 days and a week?

Tank is still running. For the sake of R2R and education, im fighting it to see if it can be fixed. I want to break it down but @mcarroll won't let me lol ;)

Don't do it! We'll beat it together!
 
Took me a week to see brown dusting. That prompt me to test the water. So if i could guess, sometime between 3 days and a week?

Tank is still running. For the sake of R2R and education, im fighting it to see if it can be fixed. I want to break it down but @mcarroll won't let me lol ;)
The mud is starting to sound better and better isn't it?
 
Before. Not at it's worse. Day after cleaning.

I also used filter sock during this phase and during black out. Normally don't use.

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Does anybody elese here think that this is not a true Dino but the stuff that commonly appears in frag racks when folks use the white plastic egg crate?
 
In a vivid aquariums video the rep speaks of successfully killing Diatoms with bakers yeist. However he describes dinos in his comments as in 1" long and stringy. So maybe this is a cure for both or your issue. Something to investigate
 
Does anybody elese here think that this is not a true Dino but the stuff that commonly appears in frag racks when folks use the white plastic egg crate?

100% looks like dynos to me. I mentioned in one of the earlier comments, in my tests, they liked to "stick" to inorganic surfaces more then surfaces covered with life (bacteria), thus eggcrate gets covered quickly.

quick fix = bleach
slow fix = raise phosphate

Phosphates likely to harm coral, where bleach doesn't seem to as much..
 
Mine came back after months without them. I attribute it to removing a lot of chaeto and my phosphate bottoming out while it regrows. I've started dosing phos so we'll see.
 
100% looks like dynos to me. I mentioned in one of the earlier comments, in my tests, they liked to "stick" to inorganic surfaces more then surfaces covered with life (bacteria), thus eggcrate gets covered quickly.
I believe we should look at this as a cause of a bloom and generally not ID with a scope. IME the introduction is the only change. Again very common.

Phosphates likely to harm coral,
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-home-tank.296635/#post-3626579
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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