Ok guys I'm about to go insane....

Detectable levels of ammonia not an issue?

I am just a tad concerned about them. Though they are low. I've actually thought about getting some hiatts right now bacteria. But as of this moment I need to get the tests first that way I'm not just guessing. I just been lazy about getting them
 
No bugs. Some sporbid worms(?) I do add 2 drops the morning after a water change. Salinity is 1.025. What ratio for peroxide??
The general rule is 1 ml per 10 gallons of water
 
And just dump it in??
Standard 3% hydrogen peroxide for like when I get cut?
I used standard. Never gave thought to strength. I use Pipette ( same as you use for adding any chemicals)
 
I used standard. Never gave thought to strength. I use Pipette ( same as you use for adding any chemicals)


But it's just standard peroxide from like right next to the isopropyl at the store?
And would a brand new sealed container be preferred or it doesnt much matter?
 
But it's just standard peroxide from like right next to the isopropyl at the store?
And would a brand new sealed container be preferred or it doesnt much matter?
That's what I did. Using this and a partial blackout- dino will fall apart. Remove any GFO and do not vodka dose of you are during process.
 
That's what I did. Using this and a partial blackout- dino will fall apart. Remove any GFO and do not vodka dose of you are during process.


No gfo.
I have chaeto... and got a lil gha from Lfs (free)... I dont have a big issue w algae. Just some rsa. But that's bc I only have 1 powerheaf I'm sure...

How long of a peroxide does regimine am I going for?? One time or repetetive??
 
Detectable levels of ammonia not an issue?

I think that's the biggest issue I see. Zoas/palys exposed to 0.25 ppm or greater for a week will cause them all to close up from my experience.

I'd work on dropping ammonia first before running around and changing everything else.

Recovery time can take several weeks depending on how long or how much ammonia you've exposed them too.
 
I think that's the biggest issue I see. Zoas/palys exposed to 0.25 ppm or greater for a week will cause them all to close up from my experience.

I'd work on dropping ammonia first before running around and changing everything else.

Recovery time can take several weeks depending on how long or how much ammonia you've exposed them too.


And the easiest way to do this would be with nitrifying bacteria???

What else could I do for ammonia??
 
And the easiest way to do this would be with nitrifying bacteria???

What else could I do for ammonia??
Bactria does help. Peroxide- repetitive
 
Ok guys... here's the pics....

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Lower the light bringing white to 20% and Blues to 70-80% and see if the corals start to open up - looks a bit bright. Water flow should be moderate.
 
Lower the light bringing white to 20% and Blues to 70-80% and see if the corals start to open up - looks a bit bright. Water flow should be moderate.


Flow is relatively moderate. Lights are just on off.... no variable intensity. Though with just blues they still dont do much...
 
I had one of my heaters fail early in the spring, i didnt catch it right away and the tank temp dropped to 71. my zoas closed up. After replacing heater they started opening back up once the water temp went above 75. On a side note they were the only corals i had that survived a tank crash last November due to 4 day power outage. water temp dropped to 43 for 3 days.
 
I had one of my heaters fail early in the spring, i didnt catch it right away and the tank temp dropped to 71. my zoas closed up. After replacing heater they started opening back up once the water temp went above 75. On a side note they were the only corals i had that survived a tank crash last November due to 4 day power outage. water temp dropped to 43 for 3 days.


Holy crap!
 
After some serious reading/learning I honestly think I have a tank crash on my hands due to negligence of the sand bed and then the attempted "good husbandry" of said sand bed. So I'm getting rid of my fw fish in my 10 g so I can put my live stock in it til I get my 55 rebooted....

Still gonna spring for the alk ca mag tests tho
 
I agree with the reset, so many things are out of whack here. If you’re not housing sps or lps there’s no need to do “reef” blend salt unless you want higher cal mag alk. Also your zoas are stretching for more light. Or place them higher in the tank.
 
I agree with the reset, so many things are out of whack here. If you’re not housing sps or lps there’s no need to do “reef” blend salt unless you want higher cal mag alk. Also your zoas are stretching for more light. Or place them higher in the tank.


I agree. Up until the sand vac I didnt have any problems except a couple astrinea stars.....


I also noticed but failed to mention... the bits of lavender coraline I have started to "whiten" shortly after the sand vac....

As for the salt I also noticed when I switched from instant ocean I started getting green coraline(?) Idk exactly what it is but it's not soft squidgy slimy stuff.
 
Coralline isn’t soft and squishy. It was probably a type of algae but the problems probably stemmed from the sand vac. I like to keep my sand white so I’m constantly stirring but letting it settle then disturbing is a bad idea.
We all have our “oh crap” moments. Right now mine is dinos lol
 
Coralline isn’t soft and squishy. It was probably a type of algae but the problems probably stemmed from the sand vac. I like to keep my sand white so I’m constantly stirring but letting it settle then disturbing is a bad idea.
We all have our “oh crap” moments. Right now mine is dinos lol


Yeah. I got black sand. But I think I'm gonna go with a very small amount in the reset
 

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