Opinions about my new tank

[raylinds]

The tank is looking good considering the bad info you got from the LFS. You are already getting good advice, so I don't feel I can add anything but wanted to provide a little moral support. Best of luck- you will get through this!

 

[MnFish1]

It's not looking good because you're not supposed to add livestock when you're cycling a tank

The tank is looking good considering the bad info you got from the LFS. You are already getting good advice, so I don't feel I can add anything but wanted to provide a little moral support. Best of luck- you will get through this!

Eve - check out @Lasse 's article on starting a tank with 'fish only'. He doesnt even use bacteria. Numerous people including myself have followed this method (Though I used as you did - Stability when I started my last tank).

I am not sure the LFS has given any real 'bad advice' except adding an anemone so soon - but it and the fish are all doing fine. I think you were doing fine before this thread - and will continue to do fine after this thread. You can have a simple saltwater tank with relatively little issue - you dont need all the bells and whistles. That said - if you graduate to wanting more corals, etc - yes - you will need to slowly get into that - one perhaps figure out how to do a skimmer, etc. now that you are adding the fritz - you will see that things should stabalize and do well. Any updates on the fish/anemone?

 

[Westside Guy]

You dont need an auto top off. You can just do the ro/di. The lfs probably just wants you to keep coming I. And buying his ro/di water at .50 - 1.00 a gallon and who knows when the last time he changed the filters. Sorry, I have a really hard time trusting anyone who is trying to sell stuff. Research is all I can say. Read, read, read. Then patience and discipline in this hobby will the best results.

I guess that every LFS is different and not trying to squeeze every last penny from you as mine does not charge its customers for RO.

 

[Lasse]

Thanks @MnFish1 , @BestMomEver , @IslandLifeReef and some other calm and not cathastropic people for keeping this thread on track. If I would give you’re an advise - it is to stop feeding a couple of days, it’s the feed that add ammonia to your tank. If the Nitrate went down - it means (in this occassion) that the bacteria is working - as @IslandLifeReef stated - the nitrate test is reading nitrite - not nitrate. You can go to my article - adapt it to your present situation and just relax and see time pass by. As MnFish1 state - it looks well and your nem is going well. It is normal that they change how they looks like when the water movement change. A tip - if I see an advice I use to look at the join date, the posters other posts and the posters build thread (if there is any) after that - I use to take a decision - stay put or act

Sincerely Lasse

 

[RobW]

I guess that every LFS is different and not trying to squeeze every last penny from you as mine does not charge its customers for RO.

I have never seen them give it away. I have my own rodi system.

 

[MnFish1]

I have never seen them give it away. I have my own rodi system.

The question would be - what is the 'TDS' of the given away water. There is a store here that does it for a very minimal amount. 5 cents/gallon... or something. It gets people into the store. Perhaps they all should be doing it.

 

[RobW]

That's actually a good idea for attracting potential sales. But yes, I agree, what is the actual TDS of said free water?

 

[MnFish1]

That's actually a good idea for attracting potential sales. But yes, I agree, what is the actual TDS of said free water?

Right - that's the key That said - its not that expensive to get an RO unit that produces 200 gallons or more per day - as compared to a 25 gallon/day unit....

 

[RobW]

I have a BRS 7 stage 150 GPD. Works like a champ!

 

[Jon Fishman]

What kind of water are you using to do water changes with? I would make sure that you go get ro/di water from the LFS or invest 150.00 to get a basic starter RO/DI that you can use at home..

I agree, but I'd spend half that..... either a 75 gpd or 100 gpd, she only has a 29g tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LKF3TCA/ref=twister_B075D85JVL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[MnFish1]

I agree, but I'd spend half that..... either a 75 gpd or 100 gpd, she only has a 29g tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LKF3TCA/ref=twister_B075D85JVL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I dont know how @Eve likes to do things. But - If your ATO is like lets say 2 gallons/day - I vote for a non home-based RODI. But - you need to document that the RODI that you're getting is really what its supposed to be.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I dont know how @Eve likes to do things. But - If your ATO is like lets say 2 gallons/day - I vote for a non home-based RODI. But - you need to document that the RODI that you're getting is really what its supposed to be.

Just to help me out..... you're saying DON'T get one like I linked? What is a "home based" and "non home-based" ? I'm not sure what you mean. I have the 150 gpd ($100) version of that, because I could split off of my feed-line under my kitchen sink, mount it under there, and just fill 40 gallons of RODI at a time or so.... and turn off the valve when I'm done.

 

[MnFish1]

Just to help me out..... you're saying DON'T get one like I linked? What is a "home based" and "non home-based" ? I'm not sure what you mean. I have the 150 gpd ($100) version of that, because I could split off of my feed-line under my kitchen sink, mount it under there, and just fill 40 gallons of RODI at a time or so.... and turn off the valve when I'm done.

I meant - that if a person needs < 2 gallons/day - why buy an rodi system - IF you can document that the water you're getting is 0 TDS.(at an LFS).... if you can make 50 gallons or 25 or 10 gallons/day and you need .5 gallons /day - I would buy it. if you can get a good 0 TDS RODI. And - even if not - those of us with SPS, other sensitive corals - even that can be remedied using tap water - using more frequent water changes (imo).... she is keeping a hawkfish, a couple clowns and an anemone.

 

[MnFish1]

I meant - that if a person needs < 2 gallons/day - why buy an rodi system - IF you can document that the water you're getting is 0 TDS.(at an LFS).... if you can make 50 gallons or 25 or 10 gallons/day and you need .5 gallons /day - I would buy it. if you can get a good 0 TDS RODI. And - even if not - those of us with SPS, other sensitive corals - even that can be remedied using tap water - using more frequent water changes (imo).... she is keeping a hawkfish, a couple clowns and an anemone.

Meaning with a 29 gallon tank - you shouldn't need that much water?

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Good evening @Eve

Just checking in, see where you are at. @BestMomEver has been rocking, as well as others. A good take away from all is stay on plan and go slow. It will be fine.

Welcome to R2R and to reefing!

@reefsquad I think this thread is the perfect example of a new reefer getting many different opinions that are all good in some situations but not necessarily in this situation and that some of these opinions are contradicting each other. This is one of these situations where @Eve needs a mentor to help her get on track and everyone else step back.

I like this @Matt Carden , imagine how much less trial and error there would be.

But want to add we already have that thru the amazing moderators, reefsquad and every member. Also following a member you feel has led you down the right path before is a good idea. They don’t mind. There is no good or bad post, and there is always conflicting methods. I think we need those conflicting ideas to help us learn as a group and grow regardless of experience. Reefkeeping, there is no absolute method.

 

[Dom]

You might be correct. Question 1 - is the ammonia level 'correct'? Question 2 - addition of Fritz Turbo has been shown (quite dramatically to reduce 4 ppm ammonia to zero within a day. The anemone to me is not suffering - it looks quite good.

IMHO - it has for some reason become a 'sin' to use bottled bacteria 'its not natural', etc. None of what we do is 'natural'. If indeed (as it seems as been done - at least with Fritz) you can supply nitrifying bacteria quickly and easily - what is the 'advantage' of waiting for it to naturally occur. Note - I'm not talking about throwing 10 tangs in a new 100 gallon aquarium. A couple clowns and a small anemone - if fed sparingly should have no problem (again IMHO).

Most people say the API tests are woefully inaccurate with regards to ammonia - but we're worried about an API test showing .25...? as a horrible event - with all due respect I dont see it. BUT in any case - my original advice stands - trying to get the anemone off the rock, etc - is going to be far more stressful than just taking the whole rock on which its attached to the LFS. IMHO - that (if anything) is the only thing 'at risk' in this tank.

How do you propose that people that set up reef tanks at aquarium shows in a day do it? Is it just 'the rock'? How do you suppose that LFS that set up frag tanks with 'no live rock at all' succeed?

Well.. I'm not speaking of bottled bacteria and there is no sin in using it. I think it is a good way to jump start your nitrifying bacteria colony in a new tank. In fact, I typically add a dose after water changes.

And I am in agreement about the API ammonia test. It is commonly known among experienced reefers that API is notoriously inaccurate when it comes their ammonia test kit. I am sure API know this is the consensus in the reefing community and wonder why they haven't done anything to correct the issue.

I wondered about show tanks myself. It was explained to me that the tanks are up and running long before the show. When it is show time, the tanks are broken down and transported in it's entirety... live rock, water... the whole shebang. People buy established tanks all the time and take everything including water. So why not show tanks?

 

[MnFish1]

Well.. I'm not speaking of bottled bacteria and there is no sin in using it. I think it is a good way to jump start your nitrifying bacteria colony in a new tank. In fact, I typically add a dose after water changes.

And I am in agreement about the API ammonia test. It is commonly known among experienced reefers that API is notoriously inaccurate when it comes their ammonia test kit. I am sure API know this is the consensus in the reefing community and wonder why they haven't done anything to correct the issue.

I wondered about show tanks myself. It was explained to me that the tanks are up and running long before the show. When it is show time, the tanks are broken down and transported in it's entirety... live rock, water... the whole shebang. People buy established tanks all the time and take everything including water. So why not show tanks?

well the common wisdom here is that doesn't work... Obviously it does

 

[Theresa Groomes]

2 weeks is very early to add fish. You need to make sure your tank is cycled before you add any livestock.

Your rock doesn't look like "live rock." True live rock will be purple, pink, green etc. It will also have many things living on and in the rock. It looks like you have dry rock, which may have been live at one time, but has been cleaned and doesn't have any of the beneficial bacteria living on and in it.

Also, you tank needs to be pretty stable for an anemone. Most recommend waiting months to a year before adding one of these

Try reading this first: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycling-an-aquarium.306554/page-34#post-5948238

After reading, if you have any questions, please ask. Your LFS isn't doing you any favors if they are selling you fish and anemones after two weeks.

Welcome to R2R!

I have a 250 gallon and have fought with it every step of the way for over a year. I made the mistake of buying an anemone right at the start and sure hope you have better luck. Mine died causing the need for a serious water change which started the tank cycle all over again. I wish you well but don't think I'll ever try that again.

 

[Theresa Groomes]

Ammonia is high. Best situation would be to see if the LFS could hold the fish until done cycling. If not you will need to do water changes and add prime. Before you add prime be sure you did not dose anything that would react with prime like copper.

I would get an ammonia badge also.

What is an ammonia badge?

 

[RobW]

I agree, but I'd spend half that..... either a 75 gpd or 100 gpd, she only has a 29g tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LKF3TCA/ref=twister_B075D85JVL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I had mentioned to her about getting a small 75 GPD unit. No one told her to get a big unit.