Plumbing setup Help

Can't He do a full siphon drain in one side and the trickle in the other? There would be reduced flow for The sump but it's probably doable.

I have thought about this but I don't think the trickle drain would be enough to prevent the water from getting a little stagnant. Maybe.
 
Ok, Maybe I have the solution based on the additional feedback.

Is it possible to use the one overflow as a full siphon drain to the sump, and the other overflow as the return? Then use the center high hole as the emergency over flow?

My concern of course is the emergency overflow is a smaller diameter then the two holes. But that aside, will this work?

Tank 2.png
 
Ok, Maybe I have the solution based on the additional feedback.

Is it possible to use the one overflow as a full siphon drain to the sump, and the other overflow as the return? Then use the center high hole as the emergency over flow?

My concern of course is the emergency overflow is a smaller diameter then the two holes. But that aside, will this work?

Tank 2.png

I have also considered this scenario. In order to do what you suggest, you'd have a full siphon in one, no problem there, and the return section I am guessing a stand pipe maybe 1/2 way up the compartment with 2 90s on top and just allow the water to discharge within the weir and cascade out via the skimmer slats. You would need that center section as your trickle. An emergency drain is not needed on a properly designed system. This is really similar to what I suggested above just swapping the back hole with one of the overflow holes. But with this one, you lose return tank flow and circulation by not being able to direct the flow with a nozzle. These are try-and-see-how it works scenarios. If it was me, I would still go with removing the weirs, siliconing over the bottom holes and drilling for a proper overflow.

I think your biggest issue with any of these scenarios using what you have without modification is balancing the full siphon drain. If you watch my video you see it equalize within the overflow compartment since both drains are there. With only one drain in the compartment, the water must equalize in the other compartment. It is fairly easy to get this going when you need + or - 1/2 gallon or so of water. You are talking about much more than that to get these two compartments synchronized. If you are unwilling to plug those bottom holes and re-drill, your best bet is probably a Durso like this tank was originally designed to use.
 
Looking at the pipes now before heading to the plumbing supply store.

Can i drop the 2" drain to a .75" pass through pipes between tubs?

Tank pipe 2.png
 
Looking at the pipes now before heading to the plumbing supply store.

Can i drop the 2" drain to a .75" pass through pipes between tubs?

Tank pipe 2.png

Of course but you are as slow as your slowest connection. Also I highly suggest slip fittings over threaded. Threaded almost always leak.
 
Update. Happy with the tank. not happy with the sump.

First issue, one tub had a split in it.
Second issue, the pump I got from BRS pushes more water out then the bulk head tubes pass between tubs. I need bigger bulk heads, or to totally rethink the setup. At this point I am thinking finding a new tub, much longer then I have, or to plywood and fiberglass the base of the tank.

Not sure what I want to do. in the mean time I have a tank full of water...
 
Have any of you done a plywood sump?

In my former life I was a lobsterman. I did a lot of fiberglass work on the boat. In any case Im thinking of boxing out the bottom of the stand and glassing it. then using the base as the sump. any thoughts?

tank plywood sump v1.png
 
I think it is a heck of a lot of work when you could just go buy a 75g tank for $100 and be done with it.
 
1st if i were you i would go with a few Synergy External Overflow boxes...Here are 2 pictures on how I hard plumbed my 120!
Tank Info:
Apex Classic Controller
Ecotech M1 pump
Skimz 163 DC Montzer Series skimmer
Custom sump / Refuge
2 TUNZE Turbelle Nanostream 6055's
2 AI Hydra TwentySix HD LED Fixtures
Celestial C35W Maxspect Refuge Spotlight
Aqua UV Ultraviolet Sterilizer 25w
BRS Dual Media reactor
Eshoops IV Master & Slave Doser
Tunze 3155 Auto Top Off


IMG_2742.JPG


IMG_1554.JPG
 
Because of the odd shape of your tank and if you're confident it will hold water go for it. Plenty of big tanks are made that way
 
The sump is framed and fiber-glassed. I have two spots that are leaking a few drops a minute. Im nor surprised as the spot is in the er where the middle uprights are. lots of wood and joints and gaps there. Its also where I had the hardest time with the fiberglass mat.

Would you all have a recommendation to to coat and seal the sump?

I was watching the DIY king and he used an epoxy paint. I was also thinking of that rubber spray. Or if all else fails, more resin.
 
Epoxy paint will help seal it, but if there is a current leak it may not. Try to resin it in, then paint. Also the paint usually has a UV resistant to it.
 
Quick update,

The sump section is now sealed and holding water!

I ran the pump and drain to test. Current situation is, the pump is putting more water into the tank then the tank is draining into the sump.

The pump is rated at 1000 gallons. the tank is ~155 gallon. I guess I need to go to a smaller pump?

Your thoughts?
 
Great tip, looks like the pump has a dial. Will look at it in the morning.
 
Ok, Thanks to Ryan for his idea to check to see if the pump has a speed control. It did.

Its been running for two hours and seems to be balanced.


Do you all see anything I should address? I am testing with tap water, if you all think its good Ill add the filters and salt water.

Thanks,
Ex
 
Ok, looks like Ill be moving to salt water and adding rock.

Thanks again or all the feedback.

Ex
 

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