Rapid led build for the 14 biocube

litenyaup

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So I hate the power compacts and want to keep the stock look. Here is the layout of the leds and all the materials. I ordered everything accept the heatsink from rapid led. Super customer service!! Any and all questions or concerns were figured out and even helped pick it the correct drivers for my application.

Had to modify the heatsink to fit under the factory shield. Also went ahead and powder coated it to help with any corrosion that may happen.

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You might lose some heat dissipation efficiency on coated surface (hot side). By how much, I am not sure. Bare metal surface will conduct heat much better.
 
You might lose some heat dissipation efficiency on coated surface (hot side). By how much, I am not sure. Bare metal surface will conduct heat much better.

I'm actually removing the coating off the led side. After thinking about it I would rather have it led on metal.
 
I'm actually removing the coating off the led side. After thinking about it I would rather have it led on metal.

I wouldn't recommend heatsink to be painted or powder coated. It can be anodize for coloring purposes, but bare aluminium heatsink will be my choice as it dissipate heat much more efficient.
 
I wouldn't recommend heatsink to be painted or powder coated. It can be anodize for coloring purposes, but bare aluminium heatsink will be my choice as it dissipate heat much more efficient.

I removed the coating from the led side. Only reason I did that is to have leds directly on the heatsink. I feel comfortable with the heat dispersion while powder coated. If you have ever seen inside some of the factory fixtures the size is ridiculously small and they are coated as well. Factory usually does some kind of coating to protect against corrosion.

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Any active cooling in mind?. Fan?. I am not saying it is wrong to powder coat, just telling you it will be more efficient without any coating. I have seen some protection coat as well but usually it is anodizing coat which doesn't affect cooling efficiency. Good luck with the build.
 
Yes 2 fans one blowing in and one sucking out
 
Very nice. I bought my cube used and the previous owner used RapidLeds, which are great, by the way. Love how you thought to wire a third channel with the moonlights, wish he would have done that.
 
Nice work! I used Rapid LED to custom build a refugium light matching the color spectrum on the new Kessil grow lights. Very happy with their knowledge and service. Actually will be beefing it up shortly as I need more PAR. Just waiting for my turn on the local reef club PAR meter to see how much more.
 
This is good timing. I am wanting to get started on some for my algae scrubber so I've been reading every little nugget I can get ahold of.

Look up Turbo on Turbo Aquatics over at Algae Scrubbers. He has tremendous data compiled in one location and has helped me a lot.
 
I actually purchased photo red, red, and a few blues to make a grownlight to fit in my custom algae reactor. Just waiting for the heatsink to show up. The picture shows a flexible eBay under cabinet light strip for reference.

Next to the reactor is a 2 part dosing containers. Built it to match. Turned out nice but only mock ups for what I'm doing under my 190 gallon. Going to built with blue and white acrylic.

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That is nice. The latest developments is that the Photo Reds and Hyper Violets match up with the Chlorophyl A peak better than Royal Blues. The Reds and Royal Blues match the Chlorophyl B peaks better, but the current information I can find is indicating the Chlorophyl B may not contribute if the Chlorophyl A is active. It seems rather Chlorophyl B is only used at dusk and dawn where there is insufficient lighting for Chlorophyl A. Im still reading up on it...but my plan is to provide Photo Red, Hyper Violets and a single Cool White for my refugium. The cool white is just to help me poke around and see. Also, Im not certain the Beta Carotids and other supplemental pigments should be completely dismissed.
 
Got all the leds wired up and they work great!! These should be even brighter because I only had a 5v power supply and it calls for a 10v. First pic is the moon lights. Second set of pics are of the white channel on low and high. Third set of pics are blue channel on low and high. Can't wait to get it in the tank and see how it looks!!


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Nice, what driver are you using?

Hopefully you know this but LEDs are spec'd in current, not voltage. They have a specific voltage required to drive them, but the brightness is provided by current, not voltage.

This was the statement that caught my concern: "...and it calls for a 10v."
 
Nice, what driver are you using?

Hopefully you know this but LEDs are spec'd in current, not voltage. They have a specific voltage required to drive them, but the brightness is provided by current, not voltage.

This was the statement that caught my concern: "...and it calls for a 10v."

To be completely honest I didn't know if it would make a difference with the voltage being higher going to the driver. I just assumed more voltage to the driver would equal more power which would equal more light.
 

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