RO, TDS and DI problem
- Thread starter Gools
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Remember that CO2 is a dissolved gas, so it won't show up on a TDS meter. Although CO2 may be an issue, I'd suggest we focus on the most obvious issue first - that bad rejection rate you mentioned.
Super Fly
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I use to have the same problem when using a prefilled DI resin cartridge, having to replace it only in few weeks. This got expensive and was tired of replacing frequently. Then after switching to BRS DI resin and refilling the canister myself, it's lasting much longer (I'd say almost 3x) and its also less than 1/3 the cost of a prefilled DI cartridge. I believe the prefilled DI cartridges are not compacted well so it doesn't contain as much resin vs if you refilled yourself. When I refill, I make sure to pack it in there really well by tapping the cartridge onto the tabletop. Try refilling the canister yourself, it worked for me. One BRS DI resin package is enough to fill 2.5 canisters for my Aquatic Buddie.
If a mixed bed DI cartridge is not packed tight enough, the resin bed will fluidize, and the anion and cation beads will separate by weight (specific gravity). If will look like the resin has changed color, starting at the top. Always mount DI cartridge vertically, with bottom up flow.
OP
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Gools
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Here is a few diagrams i found online to help placement.
With the
Yah I make sure it's packed down very well. I've taken my system completely apart made sure the membranes were all the way in, and am re plumbing everything all over again so I can rule out wrongly installed out. I did also move the booster pump to after the filters as well.
If you are using a booster pump, we like matching that with a pressure switch and feedwater solenoid valve, rather than trying the use a pressure switch and a typical ASOV valve. In other words, we avoid the config in the pic in the post immediately above.
Russ
Russ
See pg. 1; post No. 12, second graphic. That's our diagram.
When the pressure switch detects flow out of the tube has stopped, it kills the circuit so that the pump turns off, and the solenoid valve ("shut off valve") on the feedwater tube closes.
When the pressure switch detects flow out of the tube has stopped, it kills the circuit so that the pump turns off, and the solenoid valve ("shut off valve") on the feedwater tube closes.
It is a latching valve - it doesn't get hot at all. MUCH better solution than an ASOV.
https://www.buckeyehydro.com/shut-off-latching-solenoid-valve-1-4/
https://www.buckeyehydro.com/shut-off-latching-solenoid-valve-1-4/
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Gools
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As I'm stuck for now until I figure out what new components I need to buy. I have installed the booster pump after the filters as recommended but I'm getting a psi of 98 now! is that normal?
You can adjust the pump pressure output down if you have an aquatec booster pump. You can find our instructions here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/Booster_Pump_&_Related_Components.pdf
Shawn Heckman
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I’m having the same problem getting about 100 gallons out of the DI. I did try a 5 micron sediment insted of the 1 (ordered 5 on accident). Should I run a 5 then a 1 or just bite the bullet and try 2 of the ones. I have a 7 stage. I was planning on 2 sediment, 2 carbon, 2 membrane (2x100) and a DI. Does anyone have another suggestion?
Shawn - sounds like you may have been bitten by the "more-stages-means-better" virus. No worries - we cure that problem several times a day!
First, consider a 4 stage RODI as your default configuration, and add additional stages to that only if needed/only if your water quality warrants. You pay a price every time you add another filter stage in terms of added operational cost (the price of replacement filters), and you also lose some pressure every time you add a prefilter stage. "Prefilter" is any filter that touches the water prior to the RO membrane.
Any chance you can give us a call when you are in front of your system?
Russ
First, consider a 4 stage RODI as your default configuration, and add additional stages to that only if needed/only if your water quality warrants. You pay a price every time you add another filter stage in terms of added operational cost (the price of replacement filters), and you also lose some pressure every time you add a prefilter stage. "Prefilter" is any filter that touches the water prior to the RO membrane.
Any chance you can give us a call when you are in front of your system?
Russ
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Lol if hes been bitten then ive been swallowed. I have 2 x 9 stage. My city used chloramine and I have sediment filter then 2 stages of catalytic Carbon then 2 stages of chlorplusguard then 2 x 75 gpd membrane plus 2 di.
