Shall I just give up and quit?

[vetteguy53081]

The NOPox may be feeding the source. Reduction of lights helpful. Also keep nutrients high without overfeeding and raise MAG slightly. Additionally, increase water flow if possible and siphon the heavy areas slightly periodically.
Check on your water source TDS also and for phosphates

 

[Paullawr]

If it were me id do the following.

Remove the sand. Its a nutrient trap and makes it easier to syphon a glass bottom. Also needed in part of dino gestation (life cycle).

Blast the rocks to clear out settled muck.

Mix up a few 20 litre buckets of fresh saltwater. Let your sock or other filtration remove the muck now stirred up.

When clear then do your water change and clean filtration.

Grab some waste away and dose as recommended.

Id still go with red x whilst maintaining a good water quality.

Another good product in my book is microbacter 7. Great for getting down no3 and po4.

Good luck.

 

[MnFish1]

My advice would be... run activated carbon assiduously and replace it at least once a week for a few weeks until things look better.

The reason I say this... you seem to have a fair amount of corals but because some of them are struggling/dying they may be releasing toxins in the water that is killing other corals and causing a cascade effect. The algae problem does not look so bad in my opinion, but since you took steps to solve it chemically (biopellets etc), those actions may have irritated the corals who are now suffering and releasing some toxins... I say this because I had a Sinularia that just about wiped out my QT tank that was "dying" over a long period of time. Once I removed it, the other corals recovered.


Oh and listen to Lasse too

For those saying 'there is too much bioload' - I read the thread again - up to the point where the first person said 'thats too many fish'. I never have seen a list of the fish (but I might have missed it). I agree with the post above. The algae problem does not look that bad (at all). I would say that most people do more harm to their tanks trying to quickly remove algae (of any type) than just letting it run its course (of course there are exceptions).

SO @Qasim at this point - I'm lost - are you trying to fix corals - or get rid of algae or both? I think as the post above - that we grossly underestimate the problems created by coral dying in our tanks (i.e. activated carbon is good). In fact - I feel that if one is trying to keep LPS and SPS and various soft corals together - carbon is essential due to toxins released when they are alive and doing well.

 

[Paullawr]

For those saying 'there is too much bioload' - I read the thread again - up to the point where the first person said 'thats too many fish'. I never have seen a list of the fish (but I might have missed it). I agree with the post above. The algae problem does not look that bad (at all). I would say that most people do more harm to their tanks trying to quickly remove algae (of any type) than just letting it run its course (of course there are exceptions).

SO @Qasim at this point - I'm lost - are you trying to fix corals - or get rid of algae or both? I think as the post above - that we grossly underestimate the problems created by coral dying in our tanks (i.e. activated carbon is good). In fact - I feel that if one is trying to keep LPS and SPS and various soft corals together - carbon is essential due to toxins released when they are alive and doing well.

Agree 100 percent.

 

[Qasim]

Thanks for the advices given, I have removed three large fish from the tank and we are down to 4 clowns, 1 brown tang, 1 foxface rabbit fish, 1 filefish and a cleaner wrasse and a fire shrimp.

Im running activated carbon, and i have stopped dosing everything. I have ordered fauna marine red x and will get it next Saturday until then I have to skim heavily and siphon the sand as I dont want to loose the sand it is one of the main cosmetic of the tank. I have Denigran in little bags laying in my sump however I might get them out of the bag and put them in a reactor so that they can tumble well.

https://www.whitecorals.com/media/images/org/aqua_medic_denigran_4_50g.jpg

@MnFish1 Im trying to do both save as much coral as I can and get rid of the brown slimy algae and the cyano that started to appear on the rock.

 

[Sump Crab]

Thanks for the advices given, I have removed three large fish from the tank and we are down to 4 clowns, 1 brown tang, 1 foxface rabbit fish, 1 filefish and a cleaner wrasse and a fire shrimp.

Im running activated carbon, and i have stopped dosing everything. I have ordered fauna marine red x and will get it next Saturday until then I have to skim heavily and siphon the sand as I dont want to loose the sand it is one of the main cosmetic of the tank. I have Denigran in little bags laying in my sump however I might get them out of the bag and put them in a reactor so that they can tumble well.

https://www.whitecorals.com/media/images/org/aqua_medic_denigran_4_50g.jpg

@MnFish1 Im trying to do both save as much coral as I can and get rid of the brown slimy algae and the cyano that started to appear on the rock.

Sounds like you are taking some big steps in the right direction. Nice job!

 

[KleineVampir]

Ha, cyno and dino thrive in low nutrient conditions? So if there's algae for high nutrients and algae for low nutrients, why even bother doing water changes? Sure I have algae but it's hair algae that hopefully my clean up crew can manage.

I hate the idea of a blackout, especially with coral. And what is even the problem really? Cynos and dinos? It's just algae. Is it really that bad? Of course my solution is always more (and better) clean up crew.

 

[Paullawr]

Ha, cyno and dino thrive in low nutrient conditions? So if there's algae for high nutrients and algae for low nutrients, why even bother doing water changes? Sure I have algae but it's hair algae that hopefully my clean up crew can manage.

I hate the idea of a blackout, especially with coral. And what is even the problem really? Cynos and dinos? It's just algae. Is it really that bad? Of course my solution is always more (and better) clean up crew.

Algae, including protists (dinoflagellates are one type of protist) consume po4 and no3. They are heliotropic and mixotropic depending on strain. So depending on available nitrogen will also use light and spear/consume prey.

So actual high or detectable levels of ammonia, nitrate or phosphate wont rid dinoflagellates or help with algae problems.

So these nutrients as ill refer to them now on will cause algae blooms. We all know this and aim to keep them low.

As a hobby we were very good at doing this with algae (macro) and for the most part dinos were exception rather than rule.

The past five years has seen many products used to decimate organics and nutrients. Why? Because the hobby and people on here and other forums were saying we need certain levels for a successful aquarium. So carbon dosing became a thing. Its supply and demand after all. Driven by requirement. No nitrate and reduced phosphate.

Low levels cause dinos to emerge. The current thought on this is that your starving other organisms that outcompete or even consume dinos.

Nothing to do with levels though it could incite a flight or fight response. (Different strains emerge for different reasons, ie disturbed sand beds, warm weather increasing ambient temp, changes to light cycle, availability of amino acids (crack to dinos)). List goes on.

So yes, water changes help. Dilute toxins produced by protists and give corals a breather.

Low nutrients will solve algae issues but can result in protists taking over.

My advice remains the same. I've battled them for ten years before finding wins.

 

[Qasim]

Thank you all. So Im getting chemiclean and red x soon which one should I start to treat the tank with? Or only weekly water changes and siphoning should be the direction I should take?

 

[Paullawr]

If your getting red x that will deal with cyano as well.

RED X is effective against:

Green and red cyanobacteria
Mild dinoflagellate infestation (Ostreopsis sp., Amphidinium sp., Prorocentrum sp., Coolia sp., Symbiodinium and others)
Gold and armor algae
Diatoms

So do your water changes to dilute toxins messing with your corals along with nutrients. Then wheb red x arrives start treatment. Its a fairly short treatment (less thab two weeks) and should see notable improvements in around four days.

 

[Dom]

I just finished dealing with a Cyano issue, which was confirmed through microscope inspection.

In a nutshell, my water was too clean, so I turned off my protein skimmer for a while and vacuumed out my sand (bare bottom at the moment).

In the end, I used a plastic cat litter box scooper to sift the sand and remove the matts of cyano prior to water changes and waited it out as the tank in question was new. It took about 5 months, but is did self correct. I'll wait a while longer and then add sand again.

Personally, I have never been a fan of bottled solutions and believe nitrates in your range should be addressed. The real question here is identifying the source of the nitrates. Doing that will give you your best long-term results.

I feel you've been given solid advice in this thread. But where bottled solutions are concerned, I'd ask myself: Do I really want the added expense of consumables to control my chemistry when the results are telling me something is wrong?

This hobby is expensive enough, don't you think?

 

[Paullawr]

I just finished dealing with a Cyano issue, which was confirmed through microscope inspection.

In a nutshell, my water was too clean, so I turned off my protein skimmer for a while and vacuumed out my sand (bare bottom at the moment).

In the end, I used a plastic cat litter box scooper to sift the sand and remove the matts of cyano prior to water changes and waited it out as the tank in question was new. It took about 5 months, but is did self correct. I'll wait a while longer and then add sand again.

Personally, I have never been a fan of bottled solutions and believe nitrates in your range should be addressed. The real question here is identifying the source of the nitrates. Doing that will give you your best long-term results.

I feel you've been given solid advice in this thread. But where bottled solutions are concerned, I'd ask myself: Do I really want the added expense of consumables to control my chemistry when the results are telling me something is wrong?

This hobby is expensive enough, don't you think?

Its not just cyano, but also dinoflagellates. I agree the water chemistry needs sorting but every aquarist needs a hand now and then.

Cyano doesnt need nutrients by the way. It loves DOC and a bit of light.

 

[Dom]

Its not just cyano, but also dinoflagellates. I agree the water chemistry needs sorting but every aquarist needs a hand now and then.

Cyano doesnt need nutrients by the way. It loves DOC and a bit of light.

Yes... for me it was a combination too. And yes, I agree bottled solutions have a place in the short - term. Long term, best to find the cause of the elevated nitrates.

How big and how frequent are your water changes?

 

[Dom]

The NOPox may be feeding the source. Reduction of lights helpful. Also keep nutrients high without overfeeding and raise MAG slightly. Additionally, increase water flow if possible and siphon the heavy areas slightly periodically.
Check on your water source TDS also and for phosphates

I was surprised to learn that Cyano is capable of photosynthesis, so I would agree that light reduction can be helpful.

 

[Lasse]

I was surprised to learn that Cyano is capable of photosynthesis, so I would agree that light reduction can be helpful.

When you have discover a 2.7 billion years old truth. Cyanobacteria is the ancestor of all photosynthetic organism that release oxygen to the atmosphere. Here is a timeline

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Reeferboy92]

Hello,

I have been trying hard to reduce nitrate cut on feeding that I feed every other day i have placed biopelletes for two weeks now and the darn cyano or dinoflagellets are not disappearing i have even tried running the tank with light off for three days and all my happy corals closed up and might have died.

Last photo is taken april 2019 three months ago things were happy.

Then it started to get worse and worse everyday.

I will be putting tank into blackout for the next few days hope things will get fine your suggests are highly appreciated today I replaced my Di resin hope that will help as well

Try clear fx pro. For the

Hello,

I have been trying hard to reduce nitrate cut on feeding that I feed every other day i have placed biopelletes for two weeks now and the darn cyano or dinoflagellets are not disappearing i have even tried running the tank with light off for three days and all my happy corals closed up and might have died.

Last photo is taken april 2019 three months ago things were happy.

Then it started to get worse and worse everyday.

I will be putting tank into blackout for the next few days hope things will get fine your suggests are highly appreciated today I replaced my Di resin hope that will help as well

try clear fix pro for clear water and phosphate. As you’re nitrates try algae scrubber and a water change weekly. That’s how I got my nitrate down to 0 and rid of the cyano

 

[vetteguy53081]

Three days not enough. Took me 6 days. I did have lights on for 5 hours each day under blues only and almost all cleared up.
Just got a bottle from BRS called DinoX and works really well - JUST BE SURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS

 

[Qasim]

I holded my water changes as suggested by other forum members earlier but I will resume my water changes today and I will be switching my salt from red sea coral pro to aquaforest reef salt as it is the only option for me.

As for the Dino X i have it but it looks like i should use it the last as it is very strong and might cause my shrimp die who is basically the star of the tank

I will start with water changes by siphoning the detritus off of the sand bed and hopefully saturday I will start with Red X by fauna marine and will follow the instructions on that and hopefully we will reduce on this nasty stuff a little bit if not I will go for chemiclean if not my last resort will be Dino X. It will happen over the course of the next couple months and we will see how it goes.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have 3 shrimps and no issues. Im using 80% of dosage recommended also

 

[Qasim]

I have done a water change and saturday I will start dosing red x. if that didnt help I will start with chemiclean. I have got chemiclean in hand but want to get to it in the last.