Slow stn and at a loss

What I have have done when I did this. An I have had this happen in the past. You don't keep aquariums for 54 years and not have something like this happen several times. So what I did was fire up my diatomaceous earth filter and remove it all in 15 minutes. Every hobbyist should have a DE filter in their trick bag it has saved my %ss many times now.
When you go into fast reaction mode it never ends well.
Just picked this up at the time didn't have it

Also my water change water was matched up with temp dkh magnesium and calcium so to say they got stressed I don't think so possibly yes tho and thank u for ur input
 
To that one guy Who said I have mutiple lps I have a lps coral a torch that's it all the rest are sps

The montis did die over night but everything else has taken over a month and a half to die

It is happening from the base up

Snails well I don't know

To the people who said I tried to many things and caused more problems I did not

My tank was black u could not see the other end of it I was leaving for vacation and I did four water changes where the new water matches the old water parameter wise
IMG_2466.JPG
IMG_2467.JPG


Got my tank clean and prayed

I went away for TWO WEEKS and to my surprise everything doubled in size

Montis died
My light blew I replaced both of them

Then slowly rtn

I let it go for close to two maby even three weeks before I did anything else and that other thing else was a triton test

After results came back I shut off phosphate reactor and carbon since then I haven't done anything besides clean my pumps

So to say I shocked my corals by doing to much I fully disagree I mean thanks for the brain storming but I don't believe that the only thing I could have done less is leave my tank black


What I don't get is that it took well over a month if it was the carbons fault that's crazy to me

What about this infection u guys speak of?

JMO...
But seams like ReefBrite could have solved and resolved your MH bulb issue.

I'm done with reefbrite
 
You've mentioned you keep blowing bulbs, I'm assuming this is all in the same fixture, any chance that fixture is over driving the bulbs and (random example here) changing what would otherwise be a 350 PAR spot to a 500 PAR spot?
 
To that one guy Who said I have mutiple lps I have a lps coral a torch that's it all the rest are sps

The montis did die over night but everything else has taken over a month and a half to die

It is happening from the base up

Snails well I don't know

To the people who said I tried to many things and caused more problems I did not

My tank was black u could not see the other end of it I was leaving for vacation and I did four water changes where the new water matches the old water parameter wise
IMG_2466.JPG
IMG_2467.JPG


Got my tank clean and prayed

I went away for TWO WEEKS and to my surprise everything doubled in size

Montis died
My light blew I replaced both of them

Then slowly rtn

I let it go for close to two maby even three weeks before I did anything else and that other thing else was a triton test

After results came back I shut off phosphate reactor and carbon since then I haven't done anything besides clean my pumps

So to say I shocked my corals by doing to much I fully disagree I mean thanks for the brain storming but I don't believe that the only thing I could have done less is leave my tank black


What I don't get is that it took well over a month if it was the carbons fault that's crazy to me

What about this infection u guys speak of?



I'm done with reefbrite

It wasn't a criticism - everyone feels bad for you. Just listing possibilities. So many things have happened its almost impossible to say what 'it is' thats going on. As to leaving the tank black - I dont know if I would have just tried to filter it out - and leave what settled or not. I wasn't there - dont know. You did the best you could. The reason I mentioned it is that sometimes changing things (a water change where the water isn't 'dissolved' (I leave mine at least 24 hours) , etc etc. that could lead to one thing bad leading to other things, etc. But - It could be organics building up and causing the problem - so why not add back proper carbon/other export media and see what happens with your usual maintenance. You have a nice tank btw.
 
BTW - what are you doing (if anything should be done) about the zero level of iodine in the tank? I have seen something on another forum about low Iodine and RTN. No clue personally. My guess is that it is not affecting your coral - Maybe a call to triton may help explain why they flag that result as compared to articles written by Randy and others suggesting it probably doesn't matter
 
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BTW - what are you doing (if anything should be done) about the zero level of iodine in the tank? I have seen something on another forum about low Iodine and RTN. No clue personally. My guess is that it is not affecting your coral - Maybe a call to triton may help explain why they flag that result as compared to articles written by Randy and others suggesting it probably doesn't matter
Hum nothing about iodine I sent an email out to someone at triton asking and he never got back to me
You've mentioned you keep blowing bulbs, I'm assuming this is all in the same fixture, any chance that fixture is over driving the bulbs and (random example here) changing what would otherwise be a 350 PAR spot to a 500 PAR spot?

I'm using a reefbrite electronic ballast so possibly? I don't know I have to call tulio again I guess
 
I'm using a reefbrite electronic ballast so possibly? I don't know I have to call tulio again I guess

Would seem to explain a lot of your issues. If your ballast starting acting up on the 16th a Nuked your Montis under it, then the bulb couldn't take being over run and blew. You've replaced multiple bulbs which are all going to have some different level of PAR until they are burnt in correctly and they keep blowing.

Seems like it would explain everything except for the snails. I got nothing on that, but would possibly explain the nuking, RTNing and loss of coraline.

Have things highest in the tank gone first?
 
Would seem to explain a lot of your issues. If your ballast starting acting up on the 16th a Nuked your Montis under it, then the bulb couldn't take being over run and blew. You've replaced multiple bulbs which are all going to have some different level of PAR until they are burnt in correctly and they keep blowing.

Seems like it would explain everything except for the snails. I got nothing on that, but would possibly explain the nuking, RTNing and loss of coraline.

Have things highest in the tank gone first?
Yes they have thanks for this making sense
 
Yes they have thanks for this making sense

No worries mate, I've been there and been so frustrated I couldn't see the forest from the trees. Definitely helps to get new eyes on a problem when it's driving you nuts.

Not saying this is definitely your answer, but this is where I would start.
 
Justin, you say no alk swings but what is the alk, please. Your phosphate concentration is extremely low according to the analysis. 0.007 ppm if I read that right. Since it´s ICP-OES it is total phosphate.
 
Alk is between 7.7-8 dkh at 10:10 pm everyday

And yea I don't know cause when I tested my water the day of the icp test it wasn't that low I got .04
 
Hi Justin
I had similar issues as you that started in Sept 2016 in a 135 gallon SPS system. All my montipora died in short order, all my coralline algae died, many of my invertebrates died (shrimp, hermits, snails) and I lost about 50 % of my acros. The remaining acros lost their color and PE. My alk consumption went from 130 ml a day of alk to about 40 ml a day I tried just about everything, looking for faulty pumps, leaky heaters, rust etc. over a 4 month period.
(A triton test indicated I had a small amount of tin and Aluminum in my system, less than 10 of each)

I ended up doing two things which "seemed" to fix my issue almost overnight.

#1 I looked at the water valve where my RODI was hooked up (cold water valve that also feeds my washing machine). I unscrewed the valve from my home's plumbing and closely inspected it. I noticed that it had been corroding inside. I replaced the valve with a higher quality valve and reattached my RODI. This was the 2nd time this valve had corroded and been replaced.

# 2 I looked for rust again. My search ended with my two little fishies Veggie Mag. I pulled the plastic backing off the in tank half of the Veggie mag, and found the magnet inside to be very corroded. I removed the veggie mag from the system.

After these discoveries I replaced all my stored RODI and did weekly 20 gallon water changes (135 gallon system) I dosed with pantha lith a few times to the tank, about 6 hours before the water changes.

Within a week everything was looking much better, alk consumption steadily increased and my acros' color improved with better with PE.

Funny thing, after I had calculated that I had replaced my water volume with weekly 20 gallon water changes (7 weeks worth), I sent in another triton test. The results indicated that I still had the same amount of tin/Al in the system.

Hopefully this helps in your search for a cause.

Jason

IMG_0093.JPG
 
anythihng new to report?
 
Hi Justin
I had similar issues as you that started in Sept 2016 in a 135 gallon SPS system. All my montipora died in short order, all my coralline algae died, many of my invertebrates died (shrimp, hermits, snails) and I lost about 50 % of my acros. The remaining acros lost their color and PE. My alk consumption went from 130 ml a day of alk to about 40 ml a day I tried just about everything, looking for faulty pumps, leaky heaters, rust etc. over a 4 month period.
(A triton test indicated I had a small amount of tin and Aluminum in my system, less than 10 of each)

I ended up doing two things which "seemed" to fix my issue almost overnight.

#1 I looked at the water valve where my RODI was hooked up (cold water valve that also feeds my washing machine). I unscrewed the valve from my home's plumbing and closely inspected it. I noticed that it had been corroding inside. I replaced the valve with a higher quality valve and reattached my RODI. This was the 2nd time this valve had corroded and been replaced.

# 2 I looked for rust again. My search ended with my two little fishies Veggie Mag. I pulled the plastic backing off the in tank half of the Veggie mag, and found the magnet inside to be very corroded. I removed the veggie mag from the system.

After these discoveries I replaced all my stored RODI and did weekly 20 gallon water changes (135 gallon system) I dosed with pantha lith a few times to the tank, about 6 hours before the water changes.

Within a week everything was looking much better, alk consumption steadily increased and my acros' color improved with better with PE.

Funny thing, after I had calculated that I had replaced my water volume with weekly 20 gallon water changes (7 weeks worth), I sent in another triton test. The results indicated that I still had the same amount of tin/Al in the system.

Hopefully this helps in your search for a cause.

Jason

IMG_0093.JPG
Was the tds of ur water zero when this was all happening? Mine is set up like urs was and my house pipes are "rusty". But wouldn't tds be over 0?

And I was thinking a magnet as well but wouldn't that show up on the triton report? That's the new veggie mag as well very interesting.

Thanks for ur input
 
anythihng new to report?
Well the thing with life is it always get i in the way

I have worked five 12 hour shifts in a row and have hardly been home

Big Snail is still on pause I can see his mouth stuck to the glass tho. Other snails are moving I beleive that's what my girl said and corals are slowly dying
 
Was the tds of ur water zero when this was all happening? Mine is set up like urs was and my house pipes are "rusty". But wouldn't tds be over 0?

And I was thinking a magnet as well but wouldn't that show up on the triton report? That's the new veggie mag as well very interesting.

Thanks for ur input

Hi again,

Yes my water always comes out of the DI as zero TDS. It usually goes into the double DI canisters at about 20 TDS (I live in So Cal and my tap TDS is in the 700+ range). The reason I suspected the faucet is I have an office nano (separate system) that I use the same mix water and fresh RODI. I had monti frags in the nano from the display (which has a frag tank attached). All but one of the montis died in my nano at the same time as they died in the display, except for one which I thought was dead. After I fixed all the perceived issues, the monti came back from the dead in the nano.

The rusty veggie mag was their old technology. I emailed Two little fishes and they told me they had fixed the magnet problem (sealed better) and sent me two new improved veggie mags, which I thought was pretty cool. When I first looked at the compromised one it looked fine, but then i started to pull on the backing and found the rust. I had a second one that I tore open as well, but that one was ok.

About the Triton report. I thought the tin reading I had was a result of rust, and therefore searched really hard (destroying my veggie mags) to find the rust. However, after doing several water changes (full system volume over time), the following Triton report still said there was tin. So I am not sure if (in my case) the rusty magnet and tin were related, since I thought It would be zero after removing it and doing all the water changes and using Pantha Lith.

http://uniquecorals.com/dry-goods/panta-rhei/panta-rhei-panta-lith.html

Jason
 
Hi again,

Yes my water always comes out of the DI as zero TDS. It usually goes into the double DI canisters at about 20 TDS (I live in So Cal and my tap TDS is in the 700+ range). The reason I suspected the faucet is I have an office nano (separate system) that I use the same mix water and fresh RODI. I had monti frags in the nano from the display (which has a frag tank attached). All but one of the montis died in my nano at the same time as they died in the display, except for one which I thought was dead. After I fixed all the perceived issues, the monti came back from the dead in the nano.

The rusty veggie mag was their old technology. I emailed Two little fishes and they told me they had fixed the magnet problem (sealed better) and sent me two new improved veggie mags, which I thought was pretty cool. When I first looked at the compromised one it looked fine, but then i started to pull on the backing and found the rust. I had a second one that I tore open as well, but that one was ok.

About the Triton report. I thought the tin reading I had was a result of rust, and therefore searched really hard (destroying my veggie mags) to find the rust. However, after doing several water changes (full system volume over time), the following Triton report still said there was tin. So I am not sure if (in my case) the rusty magnet and tin were related, since I thought It would be zero after removing it and doing all the water changes and using Pantha Lith.

http://uniquecorals.com/dry-goods/panta-rhei/panta-rhei-panta-lith.html

Jason
That's weird so u were like me where everything test out ok but there was in fact a problem.
I am not in the position to check my water plug time wise so I switched out my filter
IMG_2768.JPG
IMG_2769.JPG


About ready to make new water

I checked all my magnets again could not find any corrosion

Also here are photos of my corals
IMG_2770.JPG
IMG_2771.JPG
IMG_2772.JPG
IMG_2773.JPG
IMG_2774.JPG
IMG_2775.JPG
IMG_2776.JPG
IMG_2777.JPG



Got in touch with tulio he wants me to bring my whole fixture to him to test out

Why did I have to wire it so nicely darn it going to take me half a day to get it out
image.jpg
image.jpg
 

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