SPS not looking great!

[Dan Kyle]

The light shouldn’t of changed much with the acclimation period. Give it a couple more weeks with weekly water changes. I don’t have any experience with sick fish, as I’ve never had a sick fish in my 18 years of reefing, so sorry, I’m no help there. They’ve either been alive or just died.
Did you have any sps that were good before the changes?

That’s alright and no, all my sps were looking like death when I made the post. It was because the same thing was happening to them all I didn’t understand what was going on but it’s definitely not through any changes. They have just deteriorated more so but that was going to happen anyway.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Hang in there. I wish I saved some of the many death pics I took last year when I couldn’t figure out what was going on. The more I tried, the more they died. I remember I would have anxiety at work thinking about how much money I waisted and how I needed to get home to see what else died or what I should do/test next.


Are you feeding any coral foods?

 

[Dan Kyle]

Hang in there. I wish I saved some of the many death pics I took last year when I couldn’t figure out what was going on. The more I tried, the more they died. I remember I would have anxiety at work thinking about how much money I waisted and how I needed to get home to see what else died or what I should do/test next.


Are you feeding any coral foods?

I know right. I feel your pain. I’m exactly the same. Every day I wake I’m wondering what else is going to happen. It all happens so quick too. Generally speaking I don’t feed any coral foods but I do have Reef Roids. I fed that earlier today in fact as a broadcast feed and then I stupidly tested my water half hour later lol. I will check again tomorrow.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

First I have read the thread and sorry for the losses. Secondly, those that use Red Sea noprox need to understand how it works. I saw sooooo many posts that said to stop dosing this. This must be done very carefully or it will actually kill your corals faster.

Since I work in medicine I will compare it to certain medications. It is similar to prednisone which is a steriod and helps those with severe asthma, etc. When doing this, it’s a tapered dosage just like noprox. So when we start most also like the tank (we see how high the nitrates are before we start). So we dose the normal recommendations for x amount of days. This is the same with prednisone we start 3 per day for three days then 2 for three days etc until they are down to half a pill for three days. If a person stops suddenly then they could risk very serious health problems up to death. Stopping noprox suddenly or not reducing correctly will absolutely kill your corals.

At the same time even if you dosed half .5ml you should be fine (if you followed the schedule) once your at .5ml stopping isn’t an issue, but it is similar to other meds such as benzodiazepines. Even in humans once that med is down to 1/3 or even every other day, people can still have a lifetime span of withdrawal symptoms. Corals are living organisms and as any can become dependent upon aka medication or aka noprox or cabon dosing.

As others have stated there are too many things being changed at once. If sps start to look bad or rtn or stn then one should always frag a piece and glue it somewhere else.
Just to try and isolate it and save it. Another thing I have learned is if you dose alk cal etc in the sump, make sure no corals are in direct fire or line of those return lines. They will get an overdose of what your dosing. (I know from personal experience).

Another item is flow, too much too little, makes a difference. If your getting not enough flow then yes it’s bad, if your ripping the flesh off or they are directly blasted it’s not ideal either. The problem is, sps and corals are one easy to kill and very picky. Finding what they like is the puzzle and it’s easier to start with lps first, simply because they will say when they are not happy but won’t die as easy.

Secondly this whole magic number on alk and cal and nitrates is more like a guideline. My corals did much better when my alk was at 8 to 8.5 and cal was at 440-460. I use api testing and so does my lfs. It is not uncommon to get a bad bottle of alk or nitrates etc. I have crossed tested with the redsea and there is a little difference but not enough to warrant paying 60 plus dollars instead of 34.

Instead of finding or chasing numbers when you see your corals happy and thriving, test that day. See where the numbers are at, then work to keep that stable. Corals like a certain number but they like it very consistent. I do not use a doser I do it all my hand with measuring cups etc. I have had tremendous success, and have had about 6-8 losses before I caught on. It happens, it’s depressing and yes it affects me as well. But if your running a mixed reef like I am then it’s much harder. I would suggest maybe adding another fish to help feed your corals. If not marine snow works pretty good, just keep your skimmer off for about 2 hours.

I hope this helps and your tank bounces back where you like to see it at.

Sincerely
Sarah

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Hello,

First I have read the thread and sorry for the losses. Secondly, those that use Red Sea noprox need to understand how it works. I saw sooooo many posts that said to stop dosing this. This must be done very carefully or it will actually kill your corals faster.

Since I work in medicine I will compare it to certain medications. It is similar to prednisone which is a steriod and helps those with severe asthma, etc. When doing this, it’s a tapered dosage just like noprox. So when we start most also like the tank (we see how high the nitrates are before we start). So we dose the normal recommendations for x amount of days. This is the same with prednisone we start 3 per day for three days then 2 for three days etc until they are down to half a pill for three days. If a person stops suddenly then they could risk very serious health problems up to death. Stopping noprox suddenly or not reducing correctly will absolutely kill your corals.

At the same time even if you dosed half .5ml you should be fine (if you followed the schedule) once your at .5ml stopping isn’t an issue, but it is similar to other meds such as benzodiazepines. Even in humans once that med is down to 1/3 or even every other day, people can still have a lifetime span of withdrawal symptoms. Corals are living organisms and as any can become dependent upon aka medication or aka noprox or cabon dosing.

As others have stated there are too many things being changed at once. If sps start to look bad or rtn or stn then one should always frag a piece and glue it somewhere else.
Just to try and isolate it and save it. Another thing I have learned is if you dose alk cal etc in the sump, make sure no corals are in direct fire or line of those return lines. They will get an overdose of what your dosing. (I know from personal experience).

Another item is flow, too much too little, makes a difference. If your getting not enough flow then yes it’s bad, if your ripping the flesh off or they are directly blasted it’s not ideal either. The problem is, sps and corals are one easy to kill and very picky. Finding what they like is the puzzle and it’s easier to start with lps first, simply because they will say when they are not happy but won’t die as easy.

Secondly this whole magic number on alk and cal and nitrates is more like a guideline. My corals did much better when my alk was at 8 to 8.5 and cal was at 440-460. I use api testing and so does my lfs. It is not uncommon to get a bad bottle of alk or nitrates etc. I have crossed tested with the redsea and there is a little difference but not enough to warrant paying 60 plus dollars instead of 34.

Instead of finding or chasing numbers when you see your corals happy and thriving, test that day. See where the numbers are at, then work to keep that stable. Corals like a certain number but they like it very consistent. I do not use a doser I do it all my hand with measuring cups etc. I have had tremendous success, and have had about 6-8 losses before I caught on. It happens, it’s depressing and yes it affects me as well. But if your running a mixed reef like I am then it’s much harder. I would suggest maybe adding another fish to help feed your corals. If not marine snow works pretty good, just keep your skimmer off for about 2 hours.

I hope this helps and your tank bounces back where you like to see it at.

Sincerely
Sarah

Lots of good points. I must defend my recommendations again because the OP hasn’t changed much. A new spectrum going through an appropriate acclimation period and stopping nopox. I stopped nopox cold turkey because things couldn’t get much worse, and everything got better in a matter of weeks. I agree with the philosophy of not doing/changing too much when things are doing good and nutrients are too low but this wasn’t the case for the OP and their recipe was unknowingly killing the sps. This needed to be stopped immediately to give them a chance to survive. Unfortunately this wasn’t able to save them, but weening off wouldn’t of helped either. I totally agree that the OP needs more fish and to stop chasing numbers. There are plenty of thriving sps examples in r2r that don’t ever worry about no3 or po4. The corals tell them when they need to investigate. Keep it simple.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

I know right. I feel your pain. I’m exactly the same. Every day I wake I’m wondering what else is going to happen. It all happens so quick too. Generally speaking I don’t feed any coral foods but I do have Reef Roids. I fed that earlier today in fact as a broadcast feed and then I stupidly tested my water half hour later lol. I will check again tomorrow.

Reef roids is good for now because you have no fish bio load, and it probably gave you a false test, but you shouldn’t be concerned if you’re no3 or po4 is rising or falling. Let it work itself out naturally. There’s nothing that can be done to speed this up. It’s probably going to go through an algae bloom, but that’s ok. I have several patches of green hair algae and this doesn’t mean anything is wrong.

 

[Sarah24!]

Lots of good points. I must defend my recommendations again because the OP hasn’t changed much. A new spectrum going through an appropriate acclimation period and stopping nopox. I stopped nopox cold turkey because things couldn’t get much worse, and everything got better in a matter of weeks. I agree with the philosophy of not doing/changing too much when things are doing good and nutrients are too low but this wasn’t the case for the OP and their recipe was unknowingly killing the sps. This needed to be stopped immediately to give them a chance to survive. Unfortunately this wasn’t able to save them, but weening off wouldn’t of helped either. I totally agree that the OP needs more fish and to stop chasing numbers. There are plenty of thriving sps examples in r2r that don’t ever worry about no3 or po4. The corals tell them when they need to investigate. Keep it simple.

Hello,

I see your point but it’s severely flawed and not sound advise. Your basing the results off of your tank, and noprox doesn’t work like that. Unless the op completely changes everything including rock and sand they can risk a symptom withdrawal from the noprox. There are some things you can stop cold turkey this isn’t one of them. There are far more severe actions that can take place by doing such.

By reading this thread not a single person has been able to determine exactly what initially started it. We can say lights, or nutrients or others or noprox. But even based on your results may not work on his tank. Another example is penicillin works for must people until it doesn’t or they are allergic.

In the case with your tank, it worked for you and it proved effective. Now, with that said, how many times have you recreated this problem and recovered it by your solution? Would it work the same or have the same effects, or similar effects or no effect? When you say tried and trued, to what extent?.

We all have read others mistakes and what not to do, etc but if you notice lol including myself, we seem more capable of fixing others tanks before our own. There are new things I learn everyday (like most of us do) that I have to be embarrassed because I didn’t know and should have known.

I’m not saying your ideas are not valid, but if one doses medication, which technically noprox is, it works the same as some addictive medications and has withdrawn like symptoms (which they Red Sea clearly states as a warnings). Which hopefully they have tested this in the lab on several test tanks and corals etc.

If you have done the lab work or the experiments to back up what you suggest as a true method I’d love to read it. I for one would love something that I know will not kill my sps or make it grow and have color etc. As I’m aware here is no such true method. What works for me hasn’t worked for others, and you should see some of the responses I get because of the lights I use. But, they grow coral like crazy and they have amazing colors but it’s also combination of items and stable parameters. This method may work for him it may not doubting, but he needs to be made aware of the consequences if he does a cold turkey stop.

I have seen my lfs run an sps dominant tank, and it is amazing. It has 40 plus ppm nitrates and phosphates are high as well. But somehow it works, and it’s worked for 20 years for him. When I set my tank up I was use to 2-5 ppm nitrates and very low phosphates. Alk was 8 average and cal was 440 average. No dips etc swings etc, then I decided to raise both nitrates and phosphates. Within about a week, (prior I was doing 75 gallon water changes and skimming pretty heavy). Let it slowly build and kept it there and I lost three huge sps colones within a day to rtn. Then to remedy this I had to use noprox to drop it steadily but faster. Within three days I lost three more newer smaller colonies. Then as the nitrates dropped things stabalized.

Now two things for this little set back, first, tank grown sps and (they were more expensive show pieces etc) handles the swings much better than the sps colonies grown in the ocean . They literally within a day lost all hope, and I had to bury them.

The second thing is my tank became addicted and but worse was use to my ecosystem of 2-5ppm and the first color on phosphates. This is what’s being missed his tank is already a different ecosystem than yours. The climate here in Idaho is far different than in Africa. Yes humans survive but we adapt to the nature around us. We need to know what his tank started out as a month or two before the loss of corals. The best remedy is going back to what that ecosystem knows, and not that yours isn’t great, but yours is in North America for example and his is in the Middle East.

If the op has logged this information it would be very handy to know and see where his parameters were, lights and routines were. To back my theory up on this, it’s how we found the aides virus and the Ebola virus etc. buy taking samples of those before onset and then cross matched with other disease aka hepatis b virus, and were able to link it to the retrovirus family. (Yes probably for to complex) but people forget corals are living animals micro (lol and simple) but none the less can adaptive to systems.

Feeding reef roids is another good way, marine snow and I don’t suggest turning the lights up if his corals are sick. Most animals or even people usually seek shelter from the sun, turning the lights on may further damage other corals if his system is not balanced.

It would be interesting to see and find what the initially cause was (definitive) not based on hypothesis. Corals have many forms of behavior we have not learned yet. Something I hope that comes available is a test where people can check the amount of food that is in the water. I’m not speaking in terms of alk or cal, but actually food. There is such a broad scope that systems can survive on, which supports what I have stated. Which is corals adapt to their environment, and each tank is different. Changing these are trying to mimic others can either fix or destroy an ecosystem.

I have had extreme experience working with lab tanks and working with smaller local aquarium tanks. I have also done my tank which is 240 gallons and worked with tanks that are over 5,000 gallons. In terms they were all very different especially since we had to run different systems etc. for those running identical systems if one failed 99% they all failed. But would be interesting to see how this turns out and if he had that information.

Sincerely
Sarah

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Hello,

I see your point but it’s severely flawed and not sound advise. Your basing the results off of your tank, and noprox doesn’t work like that. Unless the op completely changes everything including rock and sand they can risk a symptom withdrawal from the noprox. There are some things you can stop cold turkey this isn’t one of them. There are far more severe actions that can take place by doing such.

By reading this thread not a single person has been able to determine exactly what initially started it. We can say lights, or nutrients or others or noprox. But even based on your results may not work on his tank. Another example is penicillin works for must people until it doesn’t or they are allergic.

In the case with your tank, it worked for you and it proved effective. Now, with that said, how many times have you recreated this problem and recovered it by your solution? Would it work the same or have the same effects, or similar effects or no effect? When you say tried and trued, to what extent?.

We all have read others mistakes and what not to do, etc but if you notice lol including myself, we seem more capable of fixing others tanks before our own. There are new things I learn everyday (like most of us do) that I have to be embarrassed because I didn’t know and should have known.

I’m not saying your ideas are not valid, but if one doses medication, which technically noprox is, it works the same as some addictive medications and has withdrawn like symptoms (which they Red Sea clearly states as a warnings). Which hopefully they have tested this in the lab on several test tanks and corals etc.

If you have done the lab work or the experiments to back up what you suggest as a true method I’d love to read it. I for one would love something that I know will not kill my sps or make it grow and have color etc. As I’m aware here is no such true method. What works for me hasn’t worked for others, and you should see some of the responses I get because of the lights I use. But, they grow coral like crazy and they have amazing colors but it’s also combination of items and stable parameters. This method may work for him it may not doubting, but he needs to be made aware of the consequences if he does a cold turkey stop.

I have seen my lfs run an sps dominant tank, and it is amazing. It has 40 plus ppm nitrates and phosphates are high as well. But somehow it works, and it’s worked for 20 years for him. When I set my tank up I was use to 2-5 ppm nitrates and very low phosphates. Alk was 8 average and cal was 440 average. No dips etc swings etc, then I decided to raise both nitrates and phosphates. Within about a week, (prior I was doing 75 gallon water changes and skimming pretty heavy). Let it slowly build and kept it there and I lost three huge sps colones within a day to rtn. Then to remedy this I had to use noprox to drop it steadily but faster. Within three days I lost three more newer smaller colonies. Then as the nitrates dropped things stabalized.

Now two things for this little set back, first, tank grown sps and (they were more expensive show pieces etc) handles the swings much better than the sps colonies grown in the ocean . They literally within a day lost all hope, and I had to bury them.

The second thing is my tank became addicted and but worse was use to my ecosystem of 2-5ppm and the first color on phosphates. This is what’s being missed his tank is already a different ecosystem than yours. The climate here in Idaho is far different than in Africa. Yes humans survive but we adapt to the nature around us. We need to know what his tank started out as a month or two before the loss of corals. The best remedy is going back to what that ecosystem knows, and not that yours isn’t great, but yours is in North America for example and his is in the Middle East.

If the op has logged this information it would be very handy to know and see where his parameters were, lights and routines were. To back my theory up on this, it’s how we found the aides virus and the Ebola virus etc. buy taking samples of those before onset and then cross matched with other disease aka hepatis b virus, and were able to link it to the retrovirus family. (Yes probably for to complex) but people forget corals are living animals micro (lol and simple) but none the less can adaptive to systems.

Feeding reef roids is another good way, marine snow and I don’t suggest turning the lights up if his corals are sick. Most animals or even people usually seek shelter from the sun, turning the lights on may further damage other corals if his system is not balanced.

It would be interesting to see and find what the initially cause was (definitive) not based on hypothesis. Corals have many forms of behavior we have not learned yet. Something I hope that comes available is a test where people can check the amount of food that is in the water. I’m not speaking in terms of alk or cal, but actually food. There is such a broad scope that systems can survive on, which supports what I have stated. Which is corals adapt to their environment, and each tank is different. Changing these are trying to mimic others can either fix or destroy an ecosystem.

I have had extreme experience working with lab tanks and working with smaller local aquarium tanks. I have also done my tank which is 240 gallons and worked with tanks that are over 5,000 gallons. In terms they were all very different especially since we had to run different systems etc. for those running identical systems if one failed 99% they all failed. But would be interesting to see how this turns out and if he had that information.

Sincerely
Sarah

Jesus
Your fingers must be cramping hard? Can you describe to me on the bottle where it says this product is highly addictive to marine tanks? I’m not seeing that on the bottle I’m reading right now. My recommendations are for this specific reefer who experiencing the exact problems, exact lighting set up, and exact dosing/exporting methods. This isn’t a forum for just marine biologists, or lab scientist, it’s for anecdotal experiences by other marine hobbyists with similar experiences. You’re claiming that my advice is flawed and won’t work for this scenario, even though it worked for me, but instead should just continue with the methods that are obviously not working. Brilliant.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Y'know, I run two Hydra 52 HDs and found myself in almost the exact position you are a month ago and Chas stepped in. Suffice it to say, everything changed within 3 weeks, colors, PE and growth. I stopped carbon dosing and increased my light output, which seemed really bright to me originally and lowered my ALK to 8 which is close to NSW here in the Caribbean. Everything is balancing out.

Trust the guys who run the lights you do, know water quality and have a PAR meter. They've been there. I've learned that good quality water isn't necessarily like the sea. It is whatever water your corals thrive in. We can't chase numbers too much because we don't have the sea with all its bounty at home. We hack nature by having measurable po4 and No3 when the sea only has trace amounts but it feeds continuously each coral and we use fake sunlight that hacks the spectrum best for corals to both grow and look good when in nature they would more than likely be fat and brown. Lol

My advice worked for this reefer as well Sara

 

[Sarah24!]

Jesus
Your fingers must be cramping hard? Can you describe to me on the bottle where it says this product is highly addictive to marine tanks? I’m not seeing that on the bottle I’m reading right now. My recommendations are for this specific reefer who experiencing the exact problems, exact lighting set up, and exact dosing/exporting methods. This isn’t a forum for just marine biologists, or lab scientist, it’s for anecdotal experiences by other marine hobbyists with similar experiences. You’re claiming that my advice is flawed and won’t work for this scenario, even though it worked for me, but instead should just continue with the methods that are obviously not working. Brilliant.

Wow your mad for no reason but here I looked it up for you. It’s not on the box or bottle it’s in the instruction booklet page 6 number 6. Plus on the bottle it says read the manual before use. Did we forget to read that, so yes your method is flawed here is the proof. Forgot to add that it says on the bottle that misuse of this product is bad for the corals. No where in the manual does it say discontinue use, but to cut the dosage down until it’s stable. Plus you must add oxygen, turning off his skimmer would be decreasing oxygen. It also clearly states that on the bottle. More than likely the noprox in your case and the op was misused. Specially if you didn’t increase the oxygen and or cut it completely out. This is a classic case of living ecosystem becoming dependent on something we have added.

In the second case of the other reefer did you guess what went wrong or know. Because even with my marine biology degree and micro biology undergrad degres at times it’s hard to tell. Most of the time corals go bad sometimes a week prior and other times it can be the same day. In addition your wrong I am a emergency trauma residency, so my points about this are accurate.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Wow your mad for no reason but here I looked it up for you. It’s not on the box or bottle it’s in the instruction booklet page 6 number 6. Plus on the bottle it says read the manual before use. Did we forget to read that, so yes your method is flawed here is the proof.

In the second case of the other reefer did you guess what went wrong or know. Because even with my marine biology degree and micro biology undergrad degres at times it’s hard to tell. Most of the time corals go bad sometimes a week prior and other times it can be the same day. In addition your wrong I am a emergency trauma residency, so my points about this are accurate.

I’m not mad. Just irritated that some of us have put a lot time and effort describing our similar experiences, changing our lights to take par measurements trying to help and then, “excuse me, you’re all wrong, I don’t know exactly why you’re all wrong, but I’m in the medical field, Ebola, aids, residency”. I don’t see where it says nopox is addictive and detox is recommended. I wouldn’t be surprised if it did because Red Sea is company trying to sell their products. I spend a lot of time on the sps section and every day there’s a new thread with “Help, my sps/acros are dying”. They usually have perfect parameters because they’re using gfo and carbon dosing and don’t know why they’re corals are dying. My corals didn’t start surviving until I stopped nopox and gfo. Coincidence? Maybe, but I doubt it. If I had continued to use nopox, like you and Red Sea suggest, I’d have more dead corals. You sound like your a very intelligent person and congratulations on your residency appointment. And your new phone. My method is working and the op isn’t.

Now show us yours

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Wait for it.........

 

[Sarah24!]

I’m not mad. Just irritated that some of us have put a lot time and effort describing our similar experiences, changing our lights to take par measurements trying to help and then, “excuse me, you’re all wrong, I don’t know exactly why you’re all wrong, but I’m in the medical field, Ebola, aids, residency”. I don’t see where it says nopox is addictive and detox is recommended. I wouldn’t be surprised if it did because Red Sea is company trying to sell their products. I spend a lot of time on the sps section and every day there’s a new thread with “Help, my sps/acros are dying”. They usually have perfect parameters because they’re using gfo and carbon dosing and don’t know why they’re corals are dying. My corals didn’t start surviving until I stopped nopox and gfo. Coincidence? Maybe, but I doubt it. If I had continued to use nopox, like you and Red Sea suggest, I’d have more dead corals. You sound like your a very intelligent person and congratulations on your residency appointment. And your new phone. My method is working and the op isn’t.

Now show us yours

I didn’t say you were wrong and everything that you said was wrong. I said that the noprox is a medication, they make the claim on the bottle that Misuse will harm your corals. It also says to continue dosing it doesn’t say stop. It says to reduce dosage by half if levels drop and monitor and drop again but to continue.

I’m not saying your method didn’t work on your tank, I’m glad it did. But facing reality every tank is different, just like animals and humans are. We all respond to things differently, sometimes good and bad. You clearly have been successfull with your tank and nice pics. But for example and this is in no way to take away from your pics or to be competitive etc but to show that ecosystems become adaptive.

As stated my tank is 240 and I dose 1-2ml or noprox a day along with alk and cal etc. I do it by hand (measuring cups, et) and my tank is 14 months old and the noprox somehow balanced my tank out. I have 2-5 ppm and .025 phosphates from when I test. Now my lfs has a 90 and he runs 40ppm nitrates and lots of phosphates great colors and does amazing. I tried it and about crashed my own tank, and had to go back when I knew what it succeeded with.

That’s all I’m trying to say is the op was frustrated, he couldn’t figure out what went wrong. Yes he may have chased numbers, but if he dosed that noprox wrong that very easily starved his corals because it starved the bacteria.

Thank you for the compliments, I am sure you are as well in your special areas. Yes I lack in many other things because this is all I have done since gosh middle school. But noprox will work wonders if dozed correctly this is my tank at 14 months, using current usa lights on my 240 that is 34 inches tall.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Here are some others some with my old flip phone some with my not so smart iPhone and after my nephews decided it was a great ideal to pee in my sump tank lol it’s true see my main thread .

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

I didn’t say you were wrong and everything that you said was wrong. I said that the noprox is a medication, they make the claim on the bottle that Misuse will harm your corals. It also says to continue dosing it doesn’t say stop. It says to reduce dosage by half if levels drop and monitor and drop again but to continue.

I’m not saying your method didn’t work on your tank, I’m glad it did. But facing reality every tank is different, just like animals and humans are. We all respond to things differently, sometimes good and bad. You clearly have been successfull with your tank and nice pics. But for example and this is in no way to take away from your pics or to be competitive etc but to show that ecosystems become adaptive.

As stated my tank is 240 and I dose 1-2ml or noprox a day along with alk and cal etc. I do it by hand (measuring cups, et) and my tank is 14 months old and the noprox somehow balanced my tank out. I have 2-5 ppm and .025 phosphates from when I test. Now my lfs has a 90 and he runs 40ppm nitrates and lots of phosphates great colors and does amazing. I tried it and about crashed my own tank, and had to go back when I knew what it succeeded with.

That’s all I’m trying to say is the op was frustrated, he couldn’t figure out what went wrong. Yes he may have chased numbers, but if he dosed that noprox wrong that very easily starved his corals because it starved the bacteria.

Thank you for the compliments, I am sure you are as well in your special areas. Yes I lack in many other things because this is all I have done since gosh middle school. But noprox will work wonders if dozed correctly this is my tank at 14 months, using current usa lights on my 240 that is 34 inches tall.

Nice tank. I’ve been doing this since you were in elementary school. I’m not a doctor but I am in the medical field as well and I read a lot of case studies on procedures and products that turn out to be malarkey. I just find it ridiculous that stopping nopox will crash a tank that’s already crashed.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Thank you and yes because of all of those case studies is the reason why we have inservice days once a week to sometimes twice a week. It’s insane, back in the day prednisone was a great medication, and now must of us if we can avoid it. What we know now, as compared to then is huge. But st the same rate, some of the old stuff still seems to be proven.

In theory, and basing this on theory only, I’m assuming redsea has to write the instructions and on the bottle that way for a reason. More than likely, it was because they had x amount of test tanks and this was one of the major side effects. Similar to say opioids, to make this easy, some may cause people to be drowsy, so they have to list it as a warning etc. But I have seen patients and it doesn’t even phase them at all. Again in theory I think this is why, when I had to beta test products in my undergraduate programs, we had some that did amazing and others just failed horribly. Now I know we tested certain carbon dosing products, but if memory serves me right we didn’t do the redsea. We did try other methods of carbon dosing, and then stopped and again some reacted fine and others literally went down hill rapidly.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Soooo
What recipe would you recommend for a tank that failed with nopox and low light settings?

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Well that’s the million dollar question lol. I am not positive what he had already done. Definitely reduce the noprox to 1ml if he has already then .5ml per day till it stabilizes. If he had stopped maybe only add .5ml for four days then evaluated from there.

Turning lights up I don’t suggest, it adds more stress because it will technically induce their photo period. Now it’s been awhile since I have messed with hydra lights. Based on where his light is the critical angel will be different than what yours came out to be. Granted most good par meters like the apogee or the ly-cor 1500 auto correct for that.

But not certain and I don’t know what other corals he has in there just noticed sps looking bad. If he were to raise the lights it would have to be very slowly. Now when my tank had this issue I raised alk to 8.5 from 8 and boosted cal from 440-460. With that I added fuel every day, (because it adds nutrients, and marine snow. With this said two things should happen he has to turn the skimmer off because it will go nuts from marine snow. But needs O2. So, we add an airstone to the display tank and water flow. Definitely need to make sure where even he doses none of his sps or in direct line or fire.

Now as I write this, I need to point out that this is not all at once. We want to do process of elimation to learn from it. So if he has logs of info from two months ago or a month before the sps went nose diving, it’s a starting point. Need to know where he is at on the noprox, that’s critical.

If he has cut off, start with .5ml Dailey only, four three days and see if there is a response. If no change increase to 1ml and do the same. (Id cap if there no higher). Now with my pc rainbow it lookded amazing then went just ugly. Couldn’t figure out why, but start d with raising my alk. That did the trick in mine. I say the guidelines is 7-8 alk, etc make sure salt is 1.025 sure it is but double check.

So what initially caused some of my sps to go ugly was I had direct flow on to them and it peeled their flesh. If so move the wave makers just out of direct contact. Then noticed I had an alk swing about two weeks prior. So it was easy to find, but took forever why sps died in one spot in my tank: where I dosed the return line blasted the corals with the full dossgese. (Felt pretty dumb on that one).

Now after he tries this will give me an idea which path to take. If they are not stn or rtn he has lots of time. My pc rainbow looked terrible for months and months now coming back nicely. At least all the polyps are extended now, which let me fix my water issue. If he reduces dosing, increase alk to 7.5-8 give it a week. Mine took a hike to come out of hiding.

Normally I hate algae but he needs food, so maybe increase the red and green lights 5%. And see what that does. Not knowing what all he is done makes it hard to lay it out. But will follow along for sure

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Agree to disagree. I don’t follow the logic of starving already starving corals with more nopox and less light. I did recommend a 3 week acclimation period to reduce the stress. Have a good night Doc. I always enjoy a good back and forth. There you have it @Dankyle Hopefully all this clears everything up for you.

 

[Dan Kyle]

Agree to disagree. I don’t follow the logic of starving already starving corals with more nopox and less light. I did recommend a 3 week acclimation period to reduce the stress. Have a good night Doc. I always enjoy a good back and forth. There you have it @Dankyle Hopefully all this clears everything up for you.

I wished it did clear everything up for me but I’m still non the wiser on it. It’s frustrating. Interestingly though I saw something in my tank earlier today and I thought hey, that doesn’t look like something I bought lol. I actually believe it’s a nudi. Now while this would give me an answer to my problems and god forbid I need one I still believe low nutrients is still an issue for me. Take a look at the picture, it was difficult to get up close. He is on the back wall right now.