Stupid question or?
- Thread starter Ryan Rioux
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Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
Tap water should be just fine... i actually tested my plumbing with the saltwater i was using to fill the tank... if you have a leak, your only going to lose what's in your overflow! And if you let it all drain to the sump, then you aren't even losing that!
If theirs a leak, shut off the pump, let it drain to sump... then take apart the plumbing piece and fix it. The tank doesn't need to be drained for plumbing leaks!
Now checking the tank for a leak is a different animal. That should have been done with tap water for a few days in a garage before moving into the house. A leak there and the whole tank does need to be emptied... and quickly. This also applies to the sump.
If theirs a leak, shut off the pump, let it drain to sump... then take apart the plumbing piece and fix it. The tank doesn't need to be drained for plumbing leaks!
Now checking the tank for a leak is a different animal. That should have been done with tap water for a few days in a garage before moving into the house. A leak there and the whole tank does need to be emptied... and quickly. This also applies to the sump.
Saltybubbles288
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I used tap water and ran it for a few days. With a 1 to 4 rejection ratio with my rodi I didn't want to make 150 gallons of water just to loss it in event of a leak, then pumped it out when it was time to fill, there was about 10 gallons that got left in there but I didn't see any harm in it, i added a bit of prime just in case.
Antics
Valuable Member
tap/rodi/salt are all fine.
I'm a fan of just pouring a pitcher or two into the overflow and checking for leaks that way. Should do it anyway to check the seal from the overflow into the aquarium itself as well as the bulkheads.
Checking the return can be a little more problematic if you have a manifold and a lot of other plumbing. I recommend spending the extra time to do it slowly and correct the first time. I've only ever got leaks in hard plumbing when rushing.
I'm a fan of just pouring a pitcher or two into the overflow and checking for leaks that way. Should do it anyway to check the seal from the overflow into the aquarium itself as well as the bulkheads.
Checking the return can be a little more problematic if you have a manifold and a lot of other plumbing. I recommend spending the extra time to do it slowly and correct the first time. I've only ever got leaks in hard plumbing when rushing.
malacoda
Valuable Member
+1 on tap being fine. If you really wanted to stick with RO though you could always 'recollect' it ... pump or siphon it out of the sump back into the buckets or holding tank it came from.
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
Really no different than what i previously proposed. Full your sump, turn on the pump and let it run. Check for leaks. If leaks, turn off pump and let water drain back to the sump...fix leak. But, mske sure your return line is only about 1/2" below surface cuz when you turn off the pump, the water in the DT will back siphon to the sump any water above that return outlet.
Are you using a durso, herbie, or beananimal overflow system?
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Ryan Rioux
Well-Known Member
To be honest I'm using a system I created . I have no idea what it's called . Just went with the flow ! Lol I had 3 bulkheads and I didn't understand the Herbie system so I just used the 3rd as extra drain that's blocked off just in case . I just tested and didn't really have a leak .
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
To be honest I'm using a system I created . I have no idea what it's called . Just went with the flow ! Lol I had 3 bulkheads and I didn't understand the Herbie system so I just used the 3rd as extra drain that's blocked off just in case . I just tested and didn't really have a leak .
Awesome... no leaks!
FYI...Make sure that metal hose clamp on the bottom of your green vinyl tube near your pump is never under water. It may release/leach heavy metals into your DT and slowly damage your corals and inverts. Best to use a plastic hose clamp in the water.
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
To be honest I'm using a system I created . I have no idea what it's called . Just went with the flow ! Lol I had 3 bulkheads and I didn't understand the Herbie system so I just used the 3rd as extra drain that's blocked off just in case . I just tested and didn't really have a leak .
Also, here's a link to a great explanation with excellent directions for setting up a herbie overflow system.
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
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Ryan Rioux
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up with the metal clamp, I didn't even think about that . Does Home Depot or lowes sell plastic hose clamps. I've never seen them there before . When I just went back and check plumbing agaIn I did find a minor drip coming for middle bulkhead connection. I sprayed some clear flex seal all around it to prevent any leaking .
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
I've never seen the plastic hose clamps at HD or Lowes. I have seen them at local fish stores and BulkReefSupply has them as well.
Greybeard
2500 Club Member
Will the heater fit in your overflow?
I'm a big fan of water testing... I always fill a new system with tap water and run it for days... weeks even. That way I can play with ways to generate flow and decrease noise, check for splashing in the sump (I hate cleaning salt creep), set proper level for your skimmer, insure that the tank can handle the contents of the sump return compartment without overflowing, and that the sump can contain what water drains when the power drops off... all while doing a thorough leak test.
No need to rush things! Much easier to make changes _before_ you've burned up a DI cart and an expensive bucket of salt!
I'm a big fan of water testing... I always fill a new system with tap water and run it for days... weeks even. That way I can play with ways to generate flow and decrease noise, check for splashing in the sump (I hate cleaning salt creep), set proper level for your skimmer, insure that the tank can handle the contents of the sump return compartment without overflowing, and that the sump can contain what water drains when the power drops off... all while doing a thorough leak test.
No need to rush things! Much easier to make changes _before_ you've burned up a DI cart and an expensive bucket of salt!
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
I have two 200w Finnex titanium heaters in my sump for my 75g and they are doing great. They aren't really that long...check to see if they will fit for you. I think they are around 11" in length.
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Ryan Rioux
Well-Known Member
I'll look them up , I may be forced into putting a heater into the overflow. The way I had the plumbing setup the water draining back into the sump could not keep up with the pump at its lowest level so I had to put the hose directly down into the filter sock. Also idk if any of you have any experience with apex energy bar 8. For some odd reason only one of the outlets on my energy bar is working ! And the status light is blinking orange .
