Successfully flooded my house again.

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Buy a long RO/DI hose for $15 and put your bucket in the bathtub. Next time you forget you won't have to worry. But it's easy to just set an alarm on your phone :)
 
I have a booster pump that runs my Spectrapure RO/DI. I have a simple float valve mounted to my brute trash can. When the float valve is triggered, the booster pump starts and water begins to be made. Once the water hits the float valve, the booster pump turns off and the RO/DI stops making water.
 
Buy a long RO/DI hose for $15 and put your bucket in the bathtub. Next time you forget you won't have to worry. But it's easy to just set an alarm on your phone :)
The only downfall is all that wasted product water :( but this does work :)
 
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instructions/article/Installing-an-auto-shut-off-valve

Installation was actually alot easier that it sounds. But this is the kit I used along with these instructions after flooding my kitchen twice.

Just an FYI, i believe these are only good up to 55psi worthwise they tend to fail. I push 80psi through mine and ive had to replace this valve twice already. If you contact BRS like i did they will sell you the same. If you want it to work you have to dial it back down. Right now mine is shutting it off at 80psi but its only a matter of time before it fails.
 
Many years ago, when my tank was in the basement, I had a floor drain in the area where my salt mixing was done. Hey, it worked... never made a mess :) Your solution may be as simple as that!

I picked up a 1/4" solenoid valve from AirWaterIce. $15. Put it inline between my RO/DI and my ATO reservoir. Wired it to a 110vac plug, and plugged it into a timer that enables water flow for only 1.5 hours, on Tuesday and Friday. I then put a NC float switch, high and dry, at the very top of my ATO reservoir, and passed the solenoid power cable through it. There is a float valve in the reservoir itself. As long as the float valve doesn't fail, water stops at the desired fill level. If it does fail, the backup float switch will cut power to the solenoid, cutting off the water before it overflows. If BOTH fail, damage is limited to what the RO/DI can produce in an hour and a half, which isn't much more than the ATO reservoir can contain anyway. I put a cheap battery powered water alarm on the floor next to the ATO reservoir, just in case.

From the reservoir to the tank? Tunze ATO. Optical switch, backed up by a mechanical switch, with _that_ backed up by a timer.

I feel pretty safe, and I don't have to worry about the inefficiency and 'TDS Creep' that can occur when an RO/DI is not allowed to run for more than a minute or so at a time.
 
Just an FYI, i believe these are only good up to 55psi worthwise they tend to fail. I push 80psi through mine and ive had to replace this valve twice already. If you contact BRS like i did they will sell you the same. If you want it to work you have to dial it back down. Right now mine is shutting it off at 80psi but its only a matter of time before it fails.
I believe mine is pushing 60-70psi and I've been using my RO unit for 2 years with no issues whatsoever...I wonder if they say 55PSI just as a liability thing?
 
Seems cool, I unfrotently use like a 5 gallon bucket w my RODI hooked to my bathroom sink..
Just put an 11 dollar float switch in the bucket. Time how long it usually takes to trip the shut off and set a timer alarm on your phone for that amount of time to remind you to go get it.
 
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I believe mine is pushing 60-70psi and I've been using my RO unit for 2 years with no issues whatsoever...I wonder if they say 55PSI just as a liability thing?
This is my RODI

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Just an FYI, i believe these are only good up to 55psi worthwise they tend to fail. I push 80psi through mine and ive had to replace this valve twice already. If you contact BRS like i did they will sell you the same. If you want it to work you have to dial it back down. Right now mine is shutting it off at 80psi but its only a matter of time before it fails.
That's why you put the back pressure off switch on your booster pump so its shuts off when the back flow kicks in. Im my case that will drop the pressure from 75psi down to about 50psi
 
By the way to all, I posted a show me your RO/DI unit in another thread, if ya'll wouldn't mind contributing since alot of RO unit pictures are going up in here, that'd be great :D
 
How much RODI are you making at a time? I bought a hose timer (automatic, not digital) from a big box warehouse store and screwed it into a spigot [I have a Y split on my washing machine water source, one to the washer one for RODI]. I turn the dial to 1 hour and it gives me a 5 gallon bucket of RODI and turns itself off. Hard to beat for simplicity.
 
If your only making 5 gallons at a time might I suggest that you look into an to buddies with bubble magnus float valve. Great combo I use it fill my 5 gallons and even a 15 gal brute

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I do a normaly closed valve hooked up to a timer.
I have a 12 gallon bucket and a 25gpd rodi.
5 hours on a count down timer gives me 10 gallons. No more floods.
 
If your only making 5 gallons at a time might I suggest that you look into an to buddies with bubble magnus float valve. Great combo I use it fill my 5 gallons and even a 15 gal brute

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20171201_145617.jpg
Thats a good idea, i use one as a backup.
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a couple of things that worked for me:
1) put the entire unit on a timer; a belt and suspenders approach. Set the timer for 2-3 hour run at a time
2) place you fill container in an overflow vat ( a larger bowl or cut down plastic trash can to half the height of the fill/holding vat)
3) a float switch on the holding tank.
4) redundancy is the best protector of Murphy's law which says IF anything can go wrong-- it will! also set your phone timer for 2-3 hours incase your wall timer fails.
 
I use a Kent float valve in a Brute trash can.

There is a 1/2” overflow tube about 6 inches above the float valve, in the event the float valve doesn’t stop the RO/DI. The overflow tube is plumbed through a hole in the floor next to the water heater drain, which also goes under the house.

The Kent float valve has never failed to stop the RO/DI. (Knock on wood)

Good luck OP.
 
I use a RO line solenoid with a timed outlet for on/off duties in addition to a float valve and auto shut off valve. I also have a watch dog alarm in case any of it were to leak. The more redundancy you have to minimize risk the better!
Simple Touch C30004 Auto Shut-Off Safety Outlet
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KKCVZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NJFjAbXY9PCYW
 
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