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Aside from the shape of the tail, there's not much difference.Any preference between the blues and linespots?
Agree!IME when flashing filamentosus, flavianalis, rubricaudalis, and cyaneus are some of the most spectacular. Cyaneus gets very blue when flashing.
+1He should mix well with that group. Just use a social acclimation box for introduction.
Yeah... sorry for the troubles. Using the acclimation box for new additions will work wonders. In your situation, it's always best to put the aggressor into "time out" if at all possible.Going back to pickup a social acclimation box today. A couple of days ago I added a Sunset Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus Pylei) to a tank that already had a Solaris Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus Solorensis) and a Naoko's Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus naokoae). The Solaris is bullying the Sunset Wrasse. Not sure how I passed over the "generally aggressive with other Cirrhilabrus" in the "All About Reef Safe Wrasses" guide I pulled down on 3Reef. Not sure if the Sunset or the Solaris should go in the timeout box. I am guessing that it will be OK to add a Paracheilinus species or two to the tank later as long as I use the acclimation box. I want an iridus too but guess he will be able to hold his own or at least bury himself if he feels threatened.
Thank you TJ and all. Looks like I'll be getting at least a cyaneus and a rubricaudalis. I might have seen a red tail on DD a time or two. Anywhere else I can look for a rubricaudalis? Don't see those for sale often. If Hunter and TJ both like that group how can I go wrong with that advice. Again, thanks all!!IME when flashing filamentosus, flavianalis, rubricaudalis, and cyaneus are some of the most spectacular. Cyaneus gets very blue when flashing.
Here she is.Well, my flame and labouts arrived today, the flame is a pretty female and unfortunately, the little labout's female was DOA. I called LA and they were very helpful when I called and picked up without so much as a ring. I will be getting a replacement in a couple of weeks provided the flame has no issues. She is getting acclimated to the tank and the tankmates. The Exquisite is displaying for her quite a bit.
I have a mystery wrasse. I named him Razz. He's very laid back but a torpedo when revoked. God bless the wrasse of any species......IME when flashing filamentosus, flavianalis, rubricaudalis, and cyaneus are some of the most spectacular. Cyaneus gets very blue when flashing.
It is possible, but I don't recommend it. They are hardwired to feel safer with sand to bury in. If it is not available it will provide a degree of stress. Is it enough stress to cause major issues? In most cases no, but in conjunction with other environmental stressors can contribute to a weakened immune system and a shorter lifespan.Question for wrasse experts:
I have a bunch of wrasses that sleep in sand. I am thinking of going bare bottom. will they do okay without sand? or what if I put a few PVC pipes for them to sleep in?
That is common in captivity. It is speculated that it is an affect of brighter lighting in captivity versus more subdued light in their natural habitat.Lil help with a question my nice pretty diamond tail flasher is changing color to a darker color dunno what it is almost looks black !!!![]()
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So any ideas on how to change it back ??That is common in captivity. It is speculated that it is an affect of brighter lighting in captivity versus more subdued light in their natural habitat.
Not that I am aware of. Once they darken they seem to stay that way.So any ideas on how to change it back ??
You should be fine adding more if you want, but by no means have to.I've decided against a few fish on my stock list and have a few spots. Currently have a carpenters flasher, the following fairies: pink margin, blue sided, and a pylei. Just curious if I was maxed out on wrasses? Ok if I am as I love the group I have.
I have used prazipro with them in the past without issue.Thanks! Will a pink margin hold up to PraziPro? By what I've read it seems like some wrasses don't take it so well.

