Trying to grow sps

No lps was around to sting any of it. Didn't know about the alternating currents I set my to else. I had carbon running through the canister. I'm using salifert for phosphate. I want to try again with sps so I made some changes that I read they like. Maybe it was some pest out there I'm not sure.
 
No lps was around to sting any of it. Didn't know about the alternating currents I set my to else. I had carbon running through the canister. I'm using salifert for phosphate. I want to try again with sps so I made some changes that I read they like. Maybe it was some pest out there I'm not sure.

i think it was water params. those polyps are retracted pretty far. tips are burnt.
usually a pest will show healthy coral with eaten gouges.

sps need stability. so dont muck too much with the water.

...if all else fails... do a wc
 
By carbon I meant vodka or vinegar dosing which that along with higher kh could cause burnt tips.

Sps are all about stability. Auto top off, consistent levels in everything. I had one LPS that was doing poorly and for months I couldn't figure it out until I swapped tanks. One fish was messing with it. I just never caught it. So it's hard to say. Lots of variables. How big is your system and how long has it been running?

Are you using LEDs?
 
By carbon I meant vodka or vinegar dosing which that along with higher kh could cause burnt tips.

Sps are all about stability. Auto top off, consistent levels in everything. I had one LPS that was doing poorly and for months I couldn't figure it out until I swapped tanks. One fish was messing with it. I just never caught it. So it's hard to say. Lots of variables. How big is your system and how long has it been running?
Currently running a 75 gal this weekend I'm switching over to a 90 reef ready. New sand as well. Current system has been running game for a year a 4 months
 
Switching tanks and sand is really going to disturb things and nutrient levels. I'd do what you are going to do with tanks and organization, and leave sps out for at least a few months. Hopefully you don't lose anything else in the transition.
 
Are you using RODI water? Or tap with a conditioner
 
At this point I wouldn't worry so much about the kh. You aren't carbon dosing so 10.5 isn't going to kill anything, and that is within range. Water changes aren't going to lower it because it's coming from the salt you are using. And manually lowering it will cause you one more swing in parameters you don't need. Like Russ said, have the lfs test your water and if their numbers match yours start testing often and work and keeping the numbers stable. Once you're confident in that start worrying about correct flow and par.
 
Maybe take your water to a LFS and see if their results match yours. Lot of hobbyists received a eureka moment doing this.

When in doubt, do a big wc. 50%+. then try another birdsnest frag.
Yeah sounds like my best bet. I will do that plus one more opinion will never hurt.
 
Are you using a ATO? If not that will absolutely cause SPS to crash. The pump on my Tunze went out on my 29 and all my sps crashed within 2 weeks. Added the ATO back on line and everything is slowly coming back.
 
Are you using a ATO? If not that will absolutely cause SPS to crash. The pump on my Tunze went out on my 29 and all my sps crashed within 2 weeks. Added the ATO back on line and everything is slowly coming back.
You do not have to have an ATO to successfully keep SPS.
 
You do not have to have an ATO to successfully keep SPS.

i dont get this ato for sps thing.

there was another thread that rated ato and rodi unit as more important than light. lol. pure convenience factors to help an aquarist... not necessary.
 
I was reading that sps love clean water. Hopefully with the addition of a protein skimmer that will fix that problem. It was pretty bad when I Hooked it up and after it broke in man it was bad. lol
 

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