wanatabe angel

Velvet (Amyloodinium):

Symptoms - Because velvet can be such a fast killer, key behavioral symptoms will often prelude visible ones. A fish with velvet may breathe heavy, seek relief by swimming into the flow of a powerhead and act reclusive (velvet makes them sensitive to light).

If visible symptoms do manifest; velvet appears the same as ich, except the fish will usually be covered in “dust.” This dust may look gold colored if viewed at the right angle and under the right spectrum of light. Velvet is often misdiagnosed as ich and is the main “tank killer” in our hobby. It can wipe out all your fish in less than 72 hours and cannot usually be “managed” as ich sometimes is.

Treatment options - Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for velvet, but copper also works if symptoms are caught early on. Tank transfer and hypo does not work with velvet. A freshwater dip or formalin bath is recommended before treatment begins, due to the severity of this disease; however these would only provide temporary relief and will not eradicate velvet.
 
My cleaner shrimp are working OT lol tang has it in mouth and fish getting specks.

To happen so soon sounds like velvet; however post pics if you can and I'll try to confirm diagnosis before you go tearing up your DT. And please read this in its entirety: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/

I've had very good success treating fish with velvet using that protocol. Even better than treating fish with ich for some reason. And even if you can't get your hands on acriflavine or formalin, at least do the 5 min FW dip (to clear their gills) before treating with copper in QT.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 
Angels bring a lot of velvet it seems like for some reason.. Hope you get it taken care of.
 
OK first guy in qt thanking us for the fresh water dip.
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I'm not in doubt it's velvet I could have managed ich. I can't manage this.
 
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I'm not in doubt it's velvet I could have managed ich.

I didn't mean that. I meant that ich could still be present in the system since you've been managing it for a while now. If your going through all the trouble to go fallow and treat your fish, you might as well go all the way and rid yourself of ich in the DT as well right? It's an extra month, but it's worth it for the peace of mind right?
 
I didn't mean that. I meant that ich could still be present in the system since you've been managing it for a while now. If your going through all the trouble to go fallow and treat your fish, you might as well go all the way and rid yourself of ich in the DT as well right? It's an extra month, but it's worth it for the peace of mind right?
I've never had ich in my tank just this. But thanks. I just meant that if it was ich I could manage it.
 
I agree with Meredith. Why not take this opportunity to wipe the slate clean? You're going to have to QT everything from here on in if you wish to avoid a repeat of velvet. So why not do everything you can to keep ich out as well? It took 30 years of trying everything I could think of to avoid proper QT, before I finally got the wake-up call.
 
I agree with Meredith. Why not take this opportunity to wipe the slate clean? You're going to have to QT everything from here on in if you wish to avoid a repeat of velvet. So why not do everything you can to keep ich out as well? It took 30 years of trying everything I could think of to avoid proper QT, before I finally got the wake-up call.
Will do Doc. And thanks
 

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