We all hate them, Dinos! I have a cure...

[brandon429]

those rocks look really nice for sure. the only benefit to cleaning the system and a big water change would be longer time in between scraping intervals, is not a requirement.

 

[Bunkinator]

All those photos look like low water quality issues.
I would shoot for , Better filtration , GFO in a reactor, and 30% water changes until Nitrate and Phosphate are undetectable.

 

[1979fishgeek]

Was told a similar method on FB Dino group, same 3 day black out and out compete bacteria, I had to use ATM Outbreak coz could not find Dr Tim's at the time. But what made a great difference was while tank was dark I was told to flood tank with little bubbles (by directing air through wave makers/return pumps) the bubbles got stuck in the dinos and lifted them off for the filters to pick up and protein skimmer, also helped stabilise ph while lights were out.
Completely worked!

 

[FL_Reefer]

I've never tryed the nano bubbles.

 

[FL_Reefer]

Here is a great example of dinos. This is also not my pic but one I found on the web. If it is your tank I hope you don't mind. Just thought it could be a good reference pic for those who are questioning if they have dino or not.

 

[1979fishgeek]

I've never tryed the nano bubbles.

Try it with dino's works amazing, the tiny bubbles get stuck in the Dino slime with the rest of the natural bubbles and float the Dino right off, ready for whatever filter method you have to sift them out. Brilliant trick, Cruz from Dinoflagellat support group on FB posted the method and it works a treat!

 

[FL_Reefer]

Couple things I wanted to add here that most may not know. Dino is not an algea and I believe nutrient levels have nothing to do with them showing up. Dino is already in your water! It just decides when and where to show its ugly self. If your snails early the Dino it will be the end of them unfortunately.

@twilliard, can you share what your process that you were using to treat the Dino in the pics that you uploaded from your microscope pics? And what effects that you saw under the microscope when doing so, thanks in advance bud!

 

[twilliard]

Couple things I wanted to add here that most may not know. Dino is not an algea and I believe nutrient levels have nothing to do with them showing up. Dino is already in your water! It just decides when and where to show its ugly self. If your snails early the Dino it will be the end of them unfortunately.

@twilliard, can you share what your process that you were using to treat the Dino in the pics that you uploaded from your microscope pics? And what effects that you saw under the microscope when doing so, thanks in advance bud!

You are correct! They are not an algae! They are protozoa

"Any of a large group of one-celled organisms (called protists) that live in water or as parasites. Many protozoans move about by means of appendages known as cilia or flagella. Protozoans include the amoebas, flagellates, foraminiferans, and ciliates."

There is a huge downfall about dinoflagellates (depending on species) highly toxic.
We are seeing coral loss, 1 6 line wrasse loss from the species my daughter got in her tank.
There is not a lot of information about each species available
I typically don't like to write information without conclusive information.
Right now I am testing with a medication that is available even for the aquatic world just not known it may work against dinoflagellates.
With the use of my microscope I log my information daily on any cell change.
I am attacking their DNA but still not conclusive if it will affect the cell structure of zooanthelle in corals. Zooanthelle is a dinoflagellate

 

[twilliard]

Also to add since this testing reproduction rate has dropped drastically. I am seeing slow reproduction about every 36 hours.
Also we have not lost any coral since the first day of testing.

 

[Myka]

This is normal in the beginning of a tank right? Does the prescribed method for getting rid of it help? Or is it just something i have to go true

Ugh, no! Dinos are definitely not a "normal" new tank stage. The ONLY algae you should get in a new tank start up is diatoms and a small amount of green film algae. Anything other than this means you need to take corrective measures because something's gotten away on you (usually light+nutrients, but often bacterial imbalance too).

 

[Russ265]

while dinos are not algae, a number of them do photosynthesize the same nutrients as an algae.

attacking them as an algae, (black out, peroxide, uv, macro, etc) has been known to effectively keep them under control.

 

[twilliard]

Here is what dinoflagellates do after the treatment I use
They no longer hold together

 

[MikeyAl]

I have noticed lately a bunch of people dealing with Dino. It's one of the worst things we have to deal with in this hobby and will make you want to pull your hair out! So, I thought I would share my method on how I beat Dino. It may work for you, it may not but when we have Dino and we are watching our corals and snail die away, we will give anything a try right?We all know how many different strands of Dino there are but I have been real successful with this process. Also I have tryed H2O2 dosing with no success in that treatment.

Here is the process that I have used to get rid of Dino in 2 different tanks, also my LFS had it in there display tanks (full sps) and used this process as well with the same results, NO MORE DINO! Never has come back either! Here we go:

Black out for 3 days, I'm mean no light at all, do not feed your fish either, they will be ok.
Day 1: dose Dr. Tim's waste away (recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 2: dose Dr. Tim's waste away (recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 3: dose Dr. Tim's re-fresh
( recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 4: uncover, clean protein skimmer and all filtration. Return to normal light schedule.

This process worked for me with great results, I hope it will help and work for you!

I did a similar process with DR. Tim's for cyano. Worked like a charm and I've been cyano-free for a year.

http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/treat-aquarium-algae/treating-cyanobacteria

 

[twilliard]

Day 6 of medication treatment

 

[twilliard]

Before treatment

 

[Diesel]

This can turn into a great thread as many ppl in this hobby if not all at least battled the Dino's one or twice in the hobby.

 

[twilliard]

This can turn into a great thread as many ppl in this hobby if not all at least battled the Dino's one or twice in the hobby.

Indeed!
I have a bet with myself that I can wipe out dinoflagellates in 7 days from any tank never to come back unless reintroduced

 

[ksc]

Indeed!
I have a bet with myself that I can wipe out dinoflagellates in 7 days from any tank never to come back unless reintroduced

It might take you awhile as there are over 1600 different types. Luckily, I was able to beat mine in 48 hours using a few different methods. Anything that is toxic to all dinos would probably be toxic to corals to since they harbour symbiotic dinoflagellates in their tissues.

 

[twilliard]

It might take you awhile as there are over 1600 different types. Luckily, I was able to beat mine in 48 hours using a few different methods. Anything that is toxic to all dinos would probably be toxic to corals to since they contain dinos.

Indeed but the question is how is zooanthelle susceptible to what I am using. How well protected is the zooanthelle?
That is the process I am in now. Observation of zooanthelle cell change against the cell change of free dinoflagellates
So far no negative changes of zooanthelle within the tissues of coral, soft or hard corals.

 

[FF337]

Here is what dinoflagellates do after the treatment I use
They no longer hold together

What is the treatment?