What is this? Tank worse than ever.

[Wxguy23]

I swear, I’ve had more issues since installing my two 165w mars lights than ever before.

Tank is cloudy, nem is moved away and won’t eat

I added a skimmer for a week now

And this crap is growing like crazy light or dim.
I added the recomended red slime remover and it’s still a vibrant as ever 2 days later. If anything, more bubbles.
What the heck is it? All over my LR and some sand.

Worst my tank has looked in the last two years. And I’ve changed the water a few times to almost 80% in last 3 weeks.

Ideas?

 

[Reefer5640]

Dinoflagellates

 

[dantimdad]

Has nothing to do with your lights.

That's a nutrient issue.

 

[Reefer5640]

Good thing is there are some products out there to help with it. I had them about 5 years ago on a 30 gal softy. I dosed with peroxide and did a 4 or 5 day black out. May not be the preferred method these days...

 

[jent]

Looks like the snot texture of dino to me too. For me a properly sized UV cleared them up very easily and quickly.

 

[lapin]

The stuff looks like dinos to me. The OP has a UV but which one is unknown. In all the posts I have not seen any mention of water parameters. Also to note the OP uses canister filters which can affect treatment of dinos.
From this 2019 post the tank looks pristine. Not much algae or anything growing on the sand or rock.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/when-to-get-a-sump-and-why.548944/
The nem is prob moved do to the added light. It was bleached when you got it so its not in the best of shape. This and the powerhead removal and addition can also be a cause of the nems issues.
I also saw a post about missing fish. If a fish was attacked by another and wounded your starfish is an opportunistic feeder and can make short work of a non or slow moving fish.

 

[Wxguy23]

The stuff looks like dinos to me. The OP has a UV but which one is unknown. In all the posts I have not seen any mention of water parameters. Also to note the OP uses canister filters which can affect treatment of dinos.
From this 2019 post the tank looks pristine. Not much algae or anything growing on the sand or rock.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/when-to-get-a-sump-and-why.548944/
The nem is prob moved do to the added light. It was bleached when you got it so its not in the best of shape. This and the powerhead removal and addition can also be a cause of the nems issues.
I also saw a post about missing fish. If a fish was attacked by another and wounded your starfish is an opportunistic feeder and can make short work of a non or slow moving fish.

My UV is still on. Light is new(ish)
All readings are 0
Nitrates at <5

I don’t have a canister filter. I have had 2 marineland 350s till Wednesday. Then took one off.

The file fish I soon learned, jumped.
Got rid of my starfish 2 weeks ago.

 

[Wxguy23]

Has nothing to do with your lights.

That's a nutrient issue.

What could be in my water?

A: 0
Trites: 0
Trates: .5
Running a fresh bag of Purigen
Running a fresh bag of Phoseguard

Octopus BH1000 skimmer.

What else should I check for?

 

[dantimdad]

It's possible it's 0 phosphates and almost no nitrates.

It appears you have dinos.

 

[Wxguy23]

I checked the Coralife UV filter I have. Installed new light.
Raised my ph a tad and put in 20 drops of perioxide.

And in a matter of 2 hours, I’ve killed two chromis and my clownfish are slowly moving.

I’ve messed up! Crap.

 

[Reefer5640]

20 drops and things are dying? What size is your tank?

 

[Reefer5640]

How did you raise your ph and what concentration of peroxide are you using

 

[MTBake]

Perhaps something went wrong with the uv sterilizer. I'd unplug it at least. Peroxide won't do what you're explaining. Unless it was a lot of peroxide which it doesn't sound like it was.

 

[saltyhog]

First, the nutrient problem that causes dinos is usually low PO4 with some contribution from low NO3...IME. Your parameters are pretty typical of an outbreak.

Secondly, there are untold species of dinos and not all of them respond to UV. If they go almost completely away after lights out, they are likely a species that would respond to UV. Getting a species ID is very important to understanding how to fight them. A picture (video is better) under a microscope at 100X or higher will facilitate that. Post the picture in this thread. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/

Almost all species respond to increasing nutrients and biodioversity. I would aim for a PO4 above 0.1 and NO3 above 5.

Good luck. This is no fun and not an easy fix.

 

[Wxguy23]

I’m sorry. Not 20 drops. But 20drops per 10gal.

About half a tablespoon.

 

[Wxguy23]

M

How did you raise your ph and what concentration of peroxide are you using

marine PH increaser.

 

[lapin]

From other threads
The dosing rule of thumb tends to be 1 ml per 10 gallons of water.(Applies to 3% only)
0.2029 teaspoon = 1ml

 

[stacksoner]

Are you sure that isn't a bacteria outbreak?

 

[Reefer5640]

That’s about 7x more than the typical dose which is 1 ml per ten gal as @lapin stated above. Best practice is to take some tank water in a separate container, add dose to that so it’s diluted down a bit and the add it to a high flow area. Adding it directly to the tank can kill things if it comes in direct contact at a concentrated dose (fish or coral). Especially at how much you put in. Where did you find the dosing recommendation you followed? Also what was your ph before you adjusted and what is it now?

 

[Wxguy23]

From other threads
The dosing rule of thumb tends to be 1 ml per 10 gallons of water.(Applies to 3% only)
0.2029 teaspoon = 1ml

That’s what I did? Half a tablespoon is 7ml.
Enough for 70gal at 1ml per 10gal. For my 75gal tank.

Now I’m thrown off. I put in 7x too much??

Thanks for helping.